Clean the points every year or two and it'll start and run well every time. The 630 loader tractor I have starts when the first cylinder comes up on compression nearly every time and it has a plain old points system. At -20 degrees it's reluctant to keep going but it still fires first time up. I don't do anything with the points for two years, maybe three, so the points system is not that high maintenance. Jim
 
For the 18 mm plugs I have good luck with Autolite 388 (hotter, light duty and parade use or if she burns oil) or the closer to original factory heat spec heat range 386 (if shes in good shape and used long hard and at temps 180 and more) BUT IF YOU WANT A NON RESISTOR PLUG THEN RUN THE AUTOLITE 3116. Thats (using non resistor plug) not quite as critical in a coil distributor ignition as it is a Magneto which is less forgiving and lower energy

An elec ignition switch is fairly easy to intstall and if so I recommend a matched high energy high voltage coil and run a slight wider plug gap to get the most bang for the buck that elec switch has to offer. HOWEVER if it goes down youre dead in the field where with points you can file them and get back to the barn. An elec switch and coil will cost like 4 times points and condensor butttttttttt if it stays good ???? no more points to replace.

In a fairly stock tractor an elec switch wont gain you much if any HP at all, however, most report improved starting and idling. DONT FORGET TO GET THE RIGHT POLARITY SWITCH, YOUR DEERE WAS ORIGINALLY POSITIVE GROUND REMEMBER. Also your tractor likely used a 6 volt coil with an external series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor, so if you research an elec switch consider that into your equation

There are pros and cons for the original points or the elec switch but its your money and tractor and your choice NONE OF US HERE.....

John T
 
Putting an electronic ignition and high temp coil was one of the best improvements to my 60. It cost about 100 bucks and the tractor is way more reliable on starting on those damp days. Plus my old coil was bad and when she got good n hot she would lose fire until the coil cooled down again. I would do it again if I had another tractor that needed it.
 
I agree, same with my tired A & B. aint even looked at em in three years, twenty below or raining no difference, start right up & they are used almost every day.
 
Thanks for your help. My tractor run great as i just rebuilt it . put a new wiring harness no problems at all. It is completly stock and fellow pullers think you have to have electric ignition. Well ill pass id rather it be original. By the way thanks for your wonderful post on the wiring diagram it saved me.
 

1st installment got lost in cyber space, I guess...so..one more try..!

I get amazing results with Autolite #3116 plugs and recently started making my spark-plug wires from another Autozone product...their High Performance "Super-Stock" spark-plug wire set..
They have a continuous tightly-wound spiral coil, wound around a Kelvar center core..
I get 4 sets from one V-8 kit...for my 2-Cylinder tractors..!
They come with a full set of both straight and angled sparkplug boots and I solder the wire to the brass end fitting before I swedge the fitting on..
These carry some HOT fire..!
I have to wonder if there is some Capacitive action going on from the spiral core and the collapsing field around it..!!
Anyway, I think it is worth-while telling you about both of these items...
With these, I doubt that electronic ignition is worth it....
Ron.
 
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