JD- A 60 plus HP ????

[Anonymous-0]

I have late modle JD-A and looking for advice on building it to produce 60 plus HP for pulling. Looking at 4500-5500 lb local antique classes. What is the best way and ball park cost.

 

[slowrideII]

why don't you just keep it stock? it'll be more reliable, CHEAPER, safer, and there'll be one less hot rod in the antique classes. but hey, whatever. it's your money.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I had just what you are looking for. Put in a powerblock, bore it to 6.125 and use all the stock rods, crank, head and this will get you real close to 60 plus hsp. by the way I have a set of pistons to go in the powerblock if you are interested.

 

[C.R.B.]

what shape are the powerblock pistons in could you send me a pic of them.I"m interested in them.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I'm with you.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I put these pistons in about 8 years ago and had no trouble at all. I even plowed with it a few times and it would pull a 4-14 in 3rd gear with no problem,so I don't see what the problem is.

 

[AW Puller]

"The problem" you are refering to is that the correct police want to send a lynch mob after anyone and everyone that dare give their tractor more power. Sometimes their reactions to what you have done to your tractor are pretty funny. Its funnier yet when the "chief of the correct police", on either the JD board here on YT or on johnnypopper.com goes off about the "antique tractor butchers" and how its the pullers fault parts cost so much.

Is that 4-14 in 3rd gear with a creeper gear tractor or with a 3/2 tranny?

 

[slowrideII]

ok guys here's what i'm saying. i pull 2 tractors regularly. a stocker and a mod. both antiques. i pull the mod only in the classes that it's built to run in. i pull the stocker in the classic and farmstock classes. i just got a little hot after i got home from a pull last weekend where there were a bunch of hot rods in the farmstock class. me and my stocker got beat up. bad. i just don't want anymore people to be building tractors to cheat in the stock classes. thats all i'm sayin. i love the sound of a john deere 2 cyl runnin' 60, 70, 100+ hp. it's music to my ears.go ahead and build a screamer, i love em. just don't pull it against the stockers. please?
slowride>

 

[Anonymous-0]

I could care less if you chop your tractor to little bits. I don't know this particular case but I guess I'm sick of going to pulls where there are 3 classes. Open, classic stock and farm stock when the only difference between the tractors entered in all three is the open has no rpm limit, the classic just has to "appear" stock and the farm has the correct stock tires and drawbar. Several are "juiced" and entered in stock classes. To me if the rules say "must be stock" then it should darn well be. Too many push the envelope and try to get by with things without getting caught. If you criticize me for anything you can for that but don't criticize a person for something you don't know for fact and are just guessing about.

I was more or less suggesting staying in stock classes. For me it is a money saver and still fun and you can show off your tractor and how it performs out of the box. Good day.

 

[Anonymous-0]

ditto

 

[Anonymous-0]

So are you wanting to build a 60 horse stock A?

 

[Anonymous-0]

(1) I'm NOT building one to CHEAT with, I will pull it in the class it is built for. (2)To compete in the classes I'm looking at you better have 60 to 70 HP or leave it on the trailer. (3) I only came on here to ask for some advice not to have people that don't even know me tell me I'm building a hot rod to cheat with and just throwing my money away. Thanks to the people who gave me the advice to help. Oh by the way, just for the record. If a tractor has in ANYWAY been altered from the exact way it left the factory it is NO LONGER considered factory stock because of the modifactions. So now show me a true (stock) tractor and at least around here there are no pure stock classes because they allow modifacations.

 

[buickanddeere]

Speed limits keep the over powered cheaters under control.

 

[Anonymous-0]

It has a creeper gear, I also pulled a 5-16 in third gear and it worked at it but I never had to raise it up or shift down...

 

[Anonymous-0]

I built this tractor about 8 years ago and never intended to pull in a stock class, I pulled in local pulls and alwas weighted it up to 7500 to 10500 lbs class. Most of the time I pulled against 4020's and 806's and I got any where from 1st to about 5th or 6th place in a class, with the creeper gear you can put the wheigh on and still do a great job of pulling. mjjk

 

[Anonymous-0]

so how do i get 60hp out of my A. I have power block with G pistons dennys carb 150ths of head what else can i do

 

[Anonymous-0]

yes, i have gotten beat up too...but i don't go whinin bout it....make somethin to compete, the little 45hp A's will compete in 3mph...so go in them classes, the 80hp A's will compete, the 100hp G's will compete, the MM U's runnin 150 and so on....thats whats fun, at 2 or 3 mph, whether(spelling) you have 50 or 250, you all can compete at a speed limit pull. o keep "sore losers" from whinin like u guys are. the thing I can't stand is at a speed limit pull a person saves the horns till they get to the holes, and pour the coal on and blow the horn all the way through the holes...THAT is cheatin. there needs to be a time limit rule.
any ideas?

 

[Anonymous-0]

About 20 miles west of Rochester MN, I have 10 tractors all stock. Stock meaning not stripped, not horsed up, drawbars haven't been shortened or raised. That is stock.

I just gave my opinion that you could keep your tractor stock. Somebody else started the argument that those of us that recommended stock were just whinning. NO. Those guys started the whinning by labeling us as correct police. Was that label justified. H@ll no! That's B as in B. S as in S. Good luck.

 

[JDGnut]

Where in his ("New Puller") ever say anything about STOCK.... He's talking about building a pulling tractor..

 

[JDGnut]

You'll always end up with more in it than you think.. haha.. I don't know where you'll be with just a powerblock... Not exactly sure what they are running in price for the A PB's... Over priced for the G's... But I think you should be in the 60hp range, with a PB, and some more compression.
I'd go with a 9in or 9.25 stroke in the crank.. and 5.75 pistons.. its a tried and true combination... Your looking at $12-1500 for a crank, 3-500 for aircraft pistons.. or 6-800 for a custom set..15-250 for a built set of rods(maybe 100 more if you have to buy some rods to start with.) .. You'll have to cut the back wall out of the crankcase.. notch the cam.. and depending on the condition of your cam and head.. if they need some work..
Ok.. a PB would be cheaper.. I shaving and tuning you could get your 60HP... If you wanted more compression you could bore the PB sleeves.. and machine some G pistons...
There's lots of directions to go...
JDGnut

 

[Anonymous-0]

I dont see the word STOCK in his post. Did you?

 

[Anonymous-0]

New Puller, I have this setup in my 49A and it has dyno 80+ hp. Power block bored 125 over with 9" stroke (530 cubes) flat head ported and polished, Merfield crank, Allen Schooler crank ground for rod clearance, big carb, dry filter. Fast tranmission, pulls 6700# in second, 5700# in 3rd, RPM's never change. Not cheap, but having a ball with it.