JD G Differential

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have my differential out of my tractor and I am going to shim up the spider gears to give it a limited slip. Never done this before, have heard of it. Does anyone know how tight the spider gears have to be shimmed for this to be effective (can it be to tight)? Also, I want to speed up 1st gear or slow down 2nd gear. Any ways of getting that accomplished, maybe swapping the reduction gear inside the reduction gear cover? Any input would be helpful!
 
Just use the brakes. That's what they're for. A lot less work, a lot more reliable, and you run less chance of garfing something up.
 
Shim the spiders with what? If using metal on metal it will just gall the surfaces and leave filings in the bottom of the trans case.
To use a friction system it has to be dissimilar materials together. That's why clutches, brakes, posi units use steel/fiber/steel. And bushings are steel/brass/steel.
Nothing steel to steel that slides under pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 11:51:29 11/01/07) Just use the brakes. That's what they're for. A lot less work, a lot more reliable, and you run less chance of garfing something up.

Riding the brakes, gives you a great driving advantage on a JD. I think theres a downside to it after a while,,, especially to JD's running big ci stroker cranks.

This is my opinion, shoot me if you wish,


Question, what are you actually doing to the tractor while riding the brakes??
Answer is, trying to get down the track further!! Right? Harnessing the massive tire spinning torque that will spin out the best deere with out riding the brakes VS one that does,,, Thats tried and true, I took a fellas JD A down the track a few years ago,, tried to just drive it, no brakes, spun er out 50 feet behind. Same tractor goes outthere,, good driver, and he rips the class winning run.

He rode those brakes so hard, burned the paint right off the drums, almost killed the engine going for that extra step. WHEW! But, he gotthe job done though,,,,

The stroker deeres do it too,, ride the brakes so hard,,, then they break the crank right off. Or they break the drive gears.

Severe preload between the crank and the transmission, and overtime, it gives.

Some get lucky, just a new set of brakes a year and ready to go to go do it all over again. Ive seen others, have not so good luck,, of the used to be 4 "hot at the time" stroker 2 cyls, that pulled in the club, all at one time, (one in particular) lost more than one crank, or a transmission reduction gear at the very end of the pull. The first reaction of the driver is to take thier foot off the brakes, and pull the clutch, some,, even at the same time,,, The brake riding or drivers error, seemed to do it in, well, say quicker than it should have.. Super strong 2 cyls,,, of say 7-10 years ago,,, now, gone.

Now, you know as well as I do, that everybody knows we make the setup for the JD limited slip.. but here is some feed back, I wanted to tell you JD pullers..

I had put one in a G JD, name withheld,, 90 hp reports,, in fact it was for sale in the Hook a year ago,, anyways,, running 15.5s,, low gear, and was repalcing brakes every other month, broke 3 reduction gears trying to get it to hook up.

Put in a kit, that holds both whels together, and not by the spiders,, here is what he said yesterday,,,

went from 15.5s up to 16.9X38's went up one gear, never touches the brakes, and the power is going thru the tires to the ground. All the torque that he had to harness to hold it down, now is able to be turned loose and drive it by the throttle. If its got the power he reports, it will go where he wants it. Bigger tires, and one higher gear with the same tractor and going farther. Also the first year he hasnt broke anything inthe drive train....

It takes skill to drive the JD. This I know, for I dont possess it, but pull with it, and see em working hard to get going. However, when the Deeres get by em all,, Well, better luck next hunting season to all the rest,,, Just watch where ya all point them there crosshairs ok??? Have a good day. ChadS WWW.thetractorshop.com or [email protected]
 
That might be all good and well BUT, what are you suppose to do when the front wheels come off the ground? How are you suppose to steer it?

Buck
 
Well Chad, I think he11 has frozen over.....for a minute, because I actually partially agree with you. I will agree that driving a Deere with the brakes is an advantage with the right driver. I have used this technique for years and swear by it.

BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUT

I dont see how you can blame drivetrain and engine breakage problems on the brakes when they are used sensibly. The only way damage could possibly happen is someone that doesnt know what they are doing is driving and is stabbing hard on the brakes.....which wont help you anyway. I think the people tearing stuff up need to look elsewhere for the cause of their problems. You do use some power thru the brakes, but not enough to cause problems. All you need is enough pressure to keep the back tires spinning evenly, anymore than that is just needlessly eating HP and making heat to cause brake fade. Lugging the crap out of the engine at the end of the track is a lot harder on parts than a little extra drag from the brakes.
 
Well, winter is on its way. I got a nephew thats getting very good on the JD's.

A fella I know has a G,, Maybe in the 9-9-3/4 stroke area,,, when its on, its on, hard to beat it,, two of the 4 times it snapped the crank, while riding the brakes,, it developed a noise in the clutch side of the tractor,, like a growl, or a whirrr,, Then the pulley started wiggling,,, End of story,,, the first 3 broke, the 4th bent,, but here is the rest of the story,, he kept stabbing the brakes, in the loose spots of the tracks,, it was then, when the crank snapped off. 4th time, Id say he learned not to be so mean,, bent it instead of breaking it.. So, now he is afraid of it,, runs it a gear under its range, tries not to lug it down at all.. He spins it out all the time,, but he has had better luck with parts holding up. The gears, on the crank and the drive gear is what got me,, it was actually trying to peel the teeth off the reduction gear. It was only on one side,, the torqued side of the tooth,,

I had to think, that it was the crank trying to out power the gear,, flexed it in the bearings, maybe the mains, or the transmission, but something flexed and pryed these two gears apart ending up in crank damage.

Trying to stop the tranny, and the crank trying to force it to turn,,,

So, if keeping the drive tires together,, no brakes,, Id imagine the power it took to ride the brakes, is now driving both wheels at full power,, well, lets say the drivetrain is now running smoothly, not preloading the tractor, only thru its grip on the ground,,,

For one, you may lose power from the brakes, but how hard you ride them is the determining factor,,, right??

Two, if both wheels are spinning together,,, no brakes,, it would still use power to turn both wheels, but, ask yourself this,, does it take more HP to drive it with the brakes, or to have both wheels spinning together with nothing else trying to stop it beside the friction betwen the tires and the ground.... How much power would it free up???,,, in this case with this G, he went up a tire size and a gear taller, and now is working the tractor the same way it would as if he had the little tires, and braking it. Thats how much it gave back,,,,, Quite a change if ya ask me. JMHO.

Is it less stressful? is it more? We dont know,,, but so far, its working very well. ChadS
 
Buck, its a limited slip, hit a brake while its in the air, any side it will disenguage, you release the brake, and it locks right back up. It still turns and drive like normal, as far as turning and driving. Chad
 

JD Puller G. Where else, are you going to find any actual information on a limited slip differential on a 2 cyl JD? Money is money, what the heck is money anyways?? Chad
 
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