JD M Clutch Grinding

[BarnyardEngineering]

Do the fingers on the pressure plate look right to you guys? They look short and like they've had pieces broken off the end.

The noise is definitely pressure plate fingers on the throwout bearing.

Personally, I would get a clutch kit, and put it in. Don't worry about the rear main if it isn't leaking. I wouldn't have even removed the flywheel unless it looked REAL bad, and it doesn't, at least from here.

Contrary to some beliefs, you do NOT need to completely overhaul the entire tractor just because it's split. Weigh the cost to the benefit of fixing things that aren't broken just because you're in there, especially on a simple relatively easy to split tractor like an M.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

The clutch fingers appear to be wearing on the top surface a little. They are over half worn down but would probably last another time around. It’s a little different looking that’s for sure than the later stuff. It’s like someone took a pto clutch off a later one and used it to power the whole thing. I don’t see broken pieces I guess and not even bent down fingers like some I don’t think that kind of fingers would bend as easy they look more solid. A good machinist here that could resurface that flywheel and even clean up that pressure plate just a tiny hair. I don’t think there was a pressure picture but I bet it’s at least as good as the flywheel so I suppose the answer is if you think the flywheel is good the pressure plate is ok and if you send one in plan on the other.

 

[wore out]

The clutch fingers appear to be wearing on the top surface a little. They are over half worn down but would probably last another time around. It’s a little different looking that’s for sure than the later stuff. It’s like someone took a pto clutch off a later one and used it to power the whole thing. I don’t see broken pieces I guess and not even bent down fingers like some I don’t think that kind of fingers would bend as easy they look more solid. A good machinist here that could resurface that flywheel and even clean up that pressure plate just a tiny hair. I don’t think there was a pressure picture but I bet it’s at least as good as the flywheel so I suppose the answer is if you think the flywheel is good the pressure plate is ok and if you send one in plan on the other.

"(The pressure plate) is a little different looking that’s for sure than the later stuff."

It's an "Auburn clutch", MANY little tractors used them.

As an example, the IH "A" and "B" tractors used them, along with "Rockford" clutches, apparently using what was available when the tractor was assembled.

Other brands (as well as some automobiles) used Auburn clutches as well.

https://indianaeconomicdigest.net/M...to-parts-ceases-after-85-years/-3/5307/106597

Auburn Clutch Co.

 

[showcrop]

Do the fingers on the pressure plate look right to you guys? They look short and like they've had pieces broken off the end.

The noise is definitely pressure plate fingers on the throwout bearing.

Personally, I would get a clutch kit, and put it in. Don't worry about the rear main if it isn't leaking. I wouldn't have even removed the flywheel unless it looked REAL bad, and it doesn't, at least from here.

Contrary to some beliefs, you do NOT need to completely overhaul the entire tractor just because it's split. Weigh the cost to the benefit of fixing things that aren't broken just because you're in there, especially on a simple relatively easy to split tractor like an M.

Some people find it annoying to need to split again for an oil leak two months after renewing the clutch, while some people don't mind at all. Different strokes for different folks.

 

[matttractor]

Got a used bronze clutch pilot bushing in this weekend from Vintagetractors.com. All the measurements are within spec according to the service manual. I had to punch the old bushing out of the flywheel and when I went to put this one in, it is quite loose. Video attached for reference. I'm assuming the flywheel is a bit worn. I've read that I can put knurling on the OD of the bushing to make it snugger. Or a center punch to the flywheel bore to make some divots. My favored approach would be Loctite 660 since I wouldn't be fudging up any parts. Thoughts?

By the way, I went ahead and got a used propeller shaft and I'm glad that I did. The one that I pulled out had this crack and bend in it.

 

[Janicholson]

Putting punch marks in the FW, or the bushing could work OK if they were all the same, but those would not be perfectly centered. I think either JB weld, or Locktite Stud and Bearing mount liquid. Jim

 

[used red MN]

I wondered if that bushing they showed for $10 was going to be used. They could have also found a new stock replacement bushing from an industrial hardware company that had the same dimensions so I thought maybe they could provide a new one at that price. I suspect you got your propeller shaft from them as well. You should have gotten the upgrade shaft to utilize the ball bearing. Is that shaft a tube (hollow) where it cracked? Somebody must have gotten pretty “rammy” when they slid that tractor together during a previous repair. In my opinion that is the only thing that can bend that shaft. Maybe they had it part way together and a jack slipped out, that could definitely do that. That is likely what caused the whole problem with your pilot bearing, misalignment. Probably as far back as the first automobiles with a flat disk clutch were manufactured those bushing type pilot bearings have been utilized. In some cases in pickups all the way up into the 1980s. They are in general trouble free. Not saying a roller or needle bearing isn’t better, a lot of miles and acres have passed under units equipped with pilot bushings.
The recommendation of Jim to use a Loctite or similar product is a good idea. I can see where Jim has a lot of years of instructing students how to do repairs properly. I myself would probably center punch it. As long as the punching was fairly even all the way around it will be fine, but he is correct no guarantee on how centered it is. I have seen many things go back together with a little “massaging” that lived to perform their duties reliably for a long time.

 

[Janicholson]

I wondered if that bushing they showed for $10 was going to be used. They could have also found a new stock replacement bushing from an industrial hardware company that had the same dimensions so I thought maybe they could provide a new one at that price. I suspect you got your propeller shaft from them as well. You should have gotten the upgrade shaft to utilize the ball bearing. Is that shaft a tube (hollow) where it cracked? Somebody must have gotten pretty “rammy” when they slid that tractor together during a previous repair. In my opinion that is the only thing that can bend that shaft. Maybe they had it part way together and a jack slipped out, that could definitely do that. That is likely what caused the whole problem with your pilot bearing, misalignment. Probably as far back as the first automobiles with a flat disk clutch were manufactured those bushing type pilot bearings have been utilized. In some cases in pickups all the way up into the 1980s. They are in general trouble free. Not saying a roller or needle bearing isn’t better, a lot of miles and acres have passed under units equipped with pilot bushings.
The recommendation of Jim to use a Loctite or similar product is a good idea. I can see where Jim has a lot of years of instructing students how to do repairs properly. I myself would probably center punch it. As long as the punching was fairly even all the way around it will be fine, but he is correct no guarantee on how centered it is. I have seen many things go back together with a little “massaging” that lived to perform their duties reliably for a long time.

That bent "propeller shaft" was the critical ingredient in analysis. I would probably just have used a new bushing, or had one made (I would have (as you suggest) used a new propeller shaft and ball bearing pilot) Making one is an hour on a good lathe. Jim