JEEESH!!!

[Lanse]

OK, OK, stop poking me, LOL. The tractor comes along well. It wont budge, but i finally got the oil pan off. I removed all the sludge in there, and a little ice. Used some engine degreaser on it as well. I sprayed PB on the drain-pan. I also got a carb from a very nice person on here, and picked up a carb rebuild kit for a Allis model C. They do have the same engine right?? So now what. I have 2 aresol cans of carb cleaner and have never done real carb work before. Where do i start??

 

[Anonymous-0]

Carbs are usually kind of easy to clean, depends on how gunked up it is, most are similar in principle and they way they are built, bowl, float, needle and seat, jet, venturi, etc., clean all the passages, and make sure the float is good, replace it if it's in the kit etc. Sometimes clogged passages need to be drilled, carefully clean the mating surfaces, re-gasket and reassemble, dental picks and other similar tools help, compressed air, torch tip cleaning tools, etc., I always have fun working on them.

 

[Janicholson]

I like all of Billy's ideas except the possible removal of metal with either a drill, or a tip cleaner. Treat these as tools for gunk only. any enlargement will change the carb's function to the worse. The best bet is to take close up pictures at each stage of disassembly. Then it is a go when putting things back. JimN

 

[hillbillyOH]

As long as the number on the brass tag matched the number on the kit, you should be fine.


Page 26-27 of your manual will tell you everything you need to know. Make sure you keep your old and new parts separate and organized.

 

[Rusty wheel]

Howdy Lanse. I have found the best way to clean a carb is soaking in cleaner, and using a welders tip cleaner in the orifices, never a drill. Make sure all the needles and seats are smooth and not grooved. Using compressed air is a good way to crush a float as per the instructions in a carb kit from John Deere. What carb are you working on? RW

 

[DickL]

Carb cleaner in a spray can is no substitute for a NAPA pail with a basket. You can still us the stuff but it don't have the same bite on the gunk. As soon as you have a jet that is not giving up easy use heat on the outside and it will loosen up. No heat directly on the jet or it will crumb up rather than screw out. I use a BernzOmatic torch. Use the proper size screw driver bit as well. If the bit does not fit the slot you can mess up a jet real easy.

 

[Gene Davis (Ga.)]

Lanse, a torch tip cleaner will also remove metal when you move it through something as soft as brass. Beware!!

 

[Paul from MI]

Might add to others comments re-cleaning with drills. Under no circumstances ever use a power drill. Hold a drill bit by hand in a chuck. In a pinch, because I know you don't have an unlimited too budget you can get by using a pair of small vise-grips.
Paul

 

[DickL]

The pan plug on a B is a standard tapered pipe plug. They seal thread to thread. All the blaster in the world will not loosen that kind of thread. You just need a pipe or adjustable wrench with a longer handle.

 

[HENRY E NC]

You can soak the carb in lacquer thinner a few days and it should come pretty clean. Thats after you take it apart. I did the last one in a coffee can. Henry

 

[Bob]

Yeah, RIGHT!

BTDT, it's highly overated.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you have the pan off, you might grab the drain plug in a vise real tight. Then turn the pan. some plugs are real easy to round off the head, then you have areal mess. stan

 

[Anonymous-0]

Have you got the engine free yet. I wouldnt worry about a carb if you dont have an engine that will turn over as the carb wont start a stuck engine. Its like putting new tires on it aint going no place without an engine.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yes, good point as what I wrote could be interpreted a little different, those tools can be used to clean, but do not enlarge any openings by any means.

Digital camera sure makes it easy to take photos for reference, I use mine for that purpose all the time, especially for things like the drum brakes, can also take apart one side and use the other for reference.

Soaking the carb in a solvent is a good way to make use of the solvent used, spraying works on more recent varnish and contaminants, I've got a small engine carb that was totally gunked and seized, I put it in a can submerged in gumout for over 1 year, it should work fine after I rebuild it with parts from a kit.

Most times and for these old tractors, they should be simple to work on, good learning experience, put a clean rag or cloth on a well lit up bench, and go to work, I can't count how many I've done over the years, automotive ones have more parts, and some don't like to be turned upside down I've heard, always wondered about that and if it was true that on some of those the parts can dislodge from where they are supposed to be when turned over, say like a GM rochester quadrajet.

 

[mechanicalmike]

To clean small orifices, I pluck a piece of wire out of a wire brush and use that.

 

[Rusty wheel]

Hey Mechinical. Sounds like as good a way as any and maybe better that a few. One brush would probably last a lifetime. RW