John Deere 3010 - Front Axle Roll Forward

[kinglouie]

Hi guys. Thanks for your previous help about the support bracket for this 3010 hydraulic pump from a previous thread. You guys were amazing. This website has been just great to me for probably 10 years or so.

My problem is with a 3010 that has been breaking the heavy cast iron support bracket that goes from the front of the engine block to the hydraulic pump. It broke two of them that I know of (even though I was never there at the time) and the second one broke very quickly, like in 10 minutes, just moving the loader to push a bit of snow - not heavy hard work. It's the green part in the picture below, along with the pump I'm going to put in from a 4010 donor tractor.

I was hoping I could hold the tractor up with jackalls, one on each side like the picture below. There's another jack on the other side.

And then roll the axle forward to get at the pump and support, drop them down and then bolt in the new parts. I'll show what the assembly looks like below.

I was hoping I could undo the four fasteners that hold the heavy plate to the tractor frame to detach the axle assembly from the tractor and then roll the axle ahead to get at the old parts. Do you guys think that's the way to go?

My question is about the steering linkage. Do you guys think I should detach that stuff too. And if so, how... with the four bolts up high, or one or two of the other bolts lower? Without taking apart any steering linkage it looks like the heavy plate should be able to travel forward about 6 inches or so but I don't know if that will be enough. So if I have to take some steering stuff apart i was hoping to be advised what the preferred way is.

And also, when I crack open the hydraulic lines could you guys give me a heads up on what to expect? Will there be lots of oil? Like how much? If I catch it in a clean container can I reuse it or would you guys recommend not risking it and getting new oil.

Like usual I'm very grateful for the responses and I look forward to talking with you guys.

Jay

PS: if you're interested here's how the broken parts look still in place.

 

[used red MN]

Those what I call “Handyman jacks” are sketchy and give me the willys supporting something like that. One problem is the point where you are jacking is so far up from the ground which leads to far less stability of the item being jacked up. I would feel much better with just a bottle jack under it at a single point. Example jack
You will want a steel plate, channel iron or the lip of a couple angle irons 15 -20” long under its base. Then a 2 ft long 2x6 on top of your particle board under the iron. (How thick is that particle board?) You can’t jack under the oil pan so under the bell housing is your only choice. Then absolutely some emergency support cribbing under those loader brackets on each side where you show your jack.
If you go with the jacks as shown you at least need length of 2x4 (or 6) under the jack feet.

Had to edit to make jack link work. So adding link to previous post about the part that has broken. Previous post
2nd edit: Apparently Tractor Supply deserves the live link block status by YT. Here is one to a HF 20 ton
HF 20 ton bottle jack
The 12 ton jack from Tractor Supply had a nice big foot on it to help make it more stable.

 

[rockcreek4630]

Hi guys. Thanks for your previous help about the support bracket for this 3010 hydraulic pump from a previous thread. You guys were amazing. This website has been just great to me for probably 10 years or so.

My problem is with a 3010 that has been breaking the heavy cast iron support bracket that goes from the front of the engine block to the hydraulic pump. It broke two of them that I know of (even though I was never there at the time) and the second one broke very quickly, like in 10 minutes, just moving the loader to push a bit of snow - not heavy hard work. It's the green part in the picture below, along with the pump I'm going to put in from a 4010 donor tractor.

View attachment 76073


I was hoping I could hold the tractor up with jackalls, one on each side like the picture below. There's another jack on the other side.

View attachment 76074

And then roll the axle forward to get at the pump and support, drop them down and then bolt in the new parts. I'll show what the assembly looks like below.

View attachment 76075

I was hoping I could undo the four fasteners that hold the heavy plate to the tractor frame to detach the axle assembly from the tractor and then roll the axle ahead to get at the old parts. Do you guys think that's the way to go?

My question is about the steering linkage. Do you guys think I should detach that stuff too. And if so, how... with the four bolts up high, or one or two of the other bolts lower? Without taking apart any steering linkage it looks like the heavy plate should be able to travel forward about 6 inches or so but I don't know if that will be enough. So if I have to take some steering stuff apart i was hoping to be advised what the preferred way is.

And also, when I crack open the hydraulic lines could you guys give me a heads up on what to expect? Will there be lots of oil? Like how much? If I catch it in a clean container can I reuse it or would you guys recommend not risking it and getting new oil.

Like usual I'm very grateful for the responses and I look forward to talking with you guys.

Jay

PS: if you're interested here's how the broken parts look still in place.


View attachment 76076

I agree useing those jacks is a bad idea. As for steering you remove the 4 bolt on the steering arm. Have you found the reason for the support breaking I would remove the loader mounts and check the frame rail bolts. Have also seen bent rails to.

 

[Mark-Ia]

I wouldn't get under that tractor for any amount of money supported like that.

 

[kinglouie]

I agree useing those jacks is a bad idea. As for steering you remove the 4 bolt on the steering arm. Have you found the reason for the support breaking I would remove the loader mounts and check the frame rail bolts. Have also seen bent rails to.

Hi there. Thanks for the reply and the answer. I'll do the 4 bolts. I had a different thread back around April about the broken supports and back then I tested all the bolts and they all seem good and tight. But there was some agreement back then between two or three guys that it's likely vibration or wobble in the pump causing the break.

Do you have any idea what I can expect with regards to oil coming out and maybe a suggestion of what line to crack first and drain from or how a guy might go about handling the oil situation?

Thanks again.

PS: I'll block it after jacking it up, of course. I asked because with the donor 4020 when the guy went in to get the support out of it to put in the 3010 (the support that quickly broke that I'm now replacing) he went in from the side and I just wondered if pulling the parts out the bottom was better.

 

[Janicholson]

Hi guys. Thanks for your previous help about the support bracket for this 3010 hydraulic pump from a previous thread. You guys were amazing. This website has been just great to me for probably 10 years or so.

My problem is with a 3010 that has been breaking the heavy cast iron support bracket that goes from the front of the engine block to the hydraulic pump. It broke two of them that I know of (even though I was never there at the time) and the second one broke very quickly, like in 10 minutes, just moving the loader to push a bit of snow - not heavy hard work. It's the green part in the picture below, along with the pump I'm going to put in from a 4010 donor tractor.

View attachment 76073


I was hoping I could hold the tractor up with jackalls, one on each side like the picture below. There's another jack on the other side.

View attachment 76074

And then roll the axle forward to get at the pump and support, drop them down and then bolt in the new parts. I'll show what the assembly looks like below.

View attachment 76075

I was hoping I could undo the four fasteners that hold the heavy plate to the tractor frame to detach the axle assembly from the tractor and then roll the axle ahead to get at the old parts. Do you guys think that's the way to go?

My question is about the steering linkage. Do you guys think I should detach that stuff too. And if so, how... with the four bolts up high, or one or two of the other bolts lower? Without taking apart any steering linkage it looks like the heavy plate should be able to travel forward about 6 inches or so but I don't know if that will be enough. So if I have to take some steering stuff apart i was hoping to be advised what the preferred way is.

And also, when I crack open the hydraulic lines could you guys give me a heads up on what to expect? Will there be lots of oil? Like how much? If I catch it in a clean container can I reuse it or would you guys recommend not risking it and getting new oil.

Like usual I'm very grateful for the responses and I look forward to talking with you guys.

Jay

PS: if you're interested here's how the broken parts look still in place.


View attachment 76076

I would use a hydraulic 10 ton jack on a 2X12 about 2 ft. long, under the axle in the center then using 4X4 blocking, crib up to the place where the jacks are now. I own hanyman jacks, and would never use it where horizontal support is needed. this needs it. (no concrete blocks ever). My opinion is that the broken Mounts are being stressed by the tractor, not the pump. If notuing is cahnged to address the breakage, it will break again. Jim

 

[wore out]

I would use a hydraulic 10 ton jack on a 2X12 about 2 ft. long, under the axle in the center then using 4X4 blocking, crib up to the place where the jacks are now. I own hanyman jacks, and would never use it where horizontal support is needed. this needs it. (no concrete blocks ever). My opinion is that the broken Mounts are being stressed by the tractor, not the pump. If notuing is cahnged to address the breakage, it will break again. Jim

The hydraulic pump mount bolts ONLY to the front face of the engine block and should not be affected by the loader, the front axle or it's mount, or the frame rails.

I DO agree the O.P. needs to check to be sure nothing is broken, loose, or otherwise amiss that could allow any other part to srtike the pump or the mount, causing mount breakage.

 

[wore out]

Hi there. Thanks for the reply and the answer. I'll do the 4 bolts. I had a different thread back around April about the broken supports and back then I tested all the bolts and they all seem good and tight. But there was some agreement back then between two or three guys that it's likely vibration or wobble in the pump causing the break.

Do you have any idea what I can expect with regards to oil coming out and maybe a suggestion of what line to crack first and drain from or how a guy might go about handling the oil situation?

Thanks again.

PS: I'll block it after jacking it up, of course. I asked because with the donor 4020 when the guy went in to get the support out of it to put in the 3010 (the support that quickly broke that I'm now replacing) he went in from the side and I just wondered if out the bottom was better.

As to the oil situation, the hydraulic pump is well above the level of the oil in the "rear end", so the only oil that will leak is what is in the oil cooler, the lines, and the pump itself.

If the tractor hasn't run for a while that will be VERY MINIMAL, several cupfuls, perhaps.

Absolute worst case would be a quart or two.

 

[kinglouie]

As to the oil situation, the hydraulic pump is well above the level of the oil in the "rear end", so the only oil that will leak is what is in the oil cooler, the lines, and the pump itself.

If the tractor hasn't run for a while that will be VERY MINIMAL, several cupfuls, perhaps.

Absolute worst case would be a quart or two.

Hey thanks a million for your reply. That's good information. And yeah, the pump just floats independent of the frame.

 

[wore out]

Hey thanks a million for your reply. That's good information. And yeah, the pump just floats independent of the frame.

GOOD LUCK!

 

[rockcreek4630]

The hydraulic pump mount bolts ONLY to the front face of the engine block and should not be affected by the loader, the front axle or it's mount, or the frame rails.

I DO agree the O.P. needs to check to be sure nothing is broken, loose, or otherwise amiss that could allow any other part to srtike the pump or the mount, causing mount breakage.

Any movement or bending of frame rails and the pump will hit front axle support and break pump mount.

 

[Tx Jim]

DON'T get under tractor without good wood blocks as a backup for your High-lift jacks. I suggest you remove loader & mounting frames then toque all side frame mounting bolts. I agree with rockcreek4630 that there are some loose side frame retaining bolts causing hyd pump bracket to break.

 

[JIM MN]

I think it is your wide-front end or its bracket that is breaking your pump bracket- R27480R. Your tractor is a 3010 standard, meaning your wide front end is a non-adjustable heavy cast iron piece. Part of the wide front is hitting the pump or its mount bracket. From your pictures it looks like the engine is low, letting the pump and its bracket to be too close to your wide front or brackets. Way too close? The bolts that bolt the engine to the two side rails, one each side, are loose and or the rail holes are egg-shaped. Take off both loader mounting brackets and check the engine side rails? The hydraulic pump cannot wobble. And do support the front of the tractor with a cherry picker hooked to a metal plate bolted to the front end of the tractor. Use the two 5/8 bolt holes in front cast piece. If the loader mounts are off, bolt on the OTC front splitting stand to support the front end. Your tractor has a serious problem. Your tractor should not break that bracket. I have never seen this bracket broken before.

 

[kinglouie]

GOOD LUCK!

Hi Worn Out. Well I got the part in and I just have to get that front axle back into place. About 2 coffee tins of oil came out so I'll replace that. Then will I be able to just start the tractor? And oil will just get itself through the system?

Thanks for the help!

 

[wore out]

Hi Worn Out. Well I got the part in and I just have to get that front axle back into place. About 2 coffee tins of oil came out so I'll replace that. Then will I be able to just start the tractor? And oil will just get itself through the system?

Thanks for the help!

The transmission pump will supply oil to the front/main hydraulic pump as soon as you start the engine.

Be sure the tractor is in "PARK" and keep your foot off of the clutch pedal so the transmission pump will be operating.

 

[kinglouie]

I got it all together and it's working great. Thank you very much you guys once again. You guys have gotten me through a lot and a lot of tractor issues for a good 5+ years just by reading past posts. And in these last several months I've gotten myself registered with my own yesterdaystractors account and over three threads you guys have been the best information source and support a guy could ever ask for. Thank you, you guys!

PS: Who designed and wrote this web site? Hats off!

 

[used red MN]

If that pump is hitting the front axle as it looks like is shown in the last picture of your first post something is wrong. You might even break that heavier piece if it is. That front axle pivots, are you sure the pivot isn’t wore out? Or is the pump down because that piece is broke? Take a photo of the clearance of the pump to the axle now with the new part in place.

 

[kinglouie]

If that pump is hitting the front axle as it looks like is shown in the last picture of your first post something is wrong. You might even break that heavier piece if it is. That front axle pivots, are you sure the pivot isn’t wore out? Or is the pump down because that piece is broke? Take a photo of the clearance of the pump to the axle now with the new part in place.

It doesn't contact the axle. But you're right that there is no clearance between it and the stationary heavy iron part that the axle is mounted to. It seems more like precise engineering so that the mount doesn't take all the weight of the pump. But nothing but that part contacts the pump at all.

 

[Tx Jim]

Has torque on side frame retaining bolts been checked??????? My guess is NO due to necessity of removing loader mounting frames to perform that task.

 

[rockcreek4630]

Has torque on side frame retaining bolts been checked??????? My guess is NO due to necessity of removing loader mounting frames to perform that task.

Is just me but it looks like they have the front loader mount bolts going in where the frame to steering motor bolts should be.