John Deere 3010 - Front Axle Roll Forward

I have never seen loader mounting frames attached similar to those mounts.
 

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Has torque on side frame retaining bolts been checked??????? My guess is NO due to necessity of removing loader mounting frames to perform that task.
I didn't think the loader mounting frame needed to be removed because the loader mounting frames just go through the side rails into the holes connected to the block and they are all very tight.
 
Is just me but it looks like they have the front loader mount bolts going in where the frame to steering motor bolts should be.
I didn't think the loader mounting frame needed to be removed because the loader mounting frames just go through the side rails into the holes connected to the block and they are all very tight.
 
I didn't think the loader mounting frame needed to be removed because the loader mounting frames just go through the side rails into the holes connected to the block and they are all very tight.
So, to be clear, have you looked CLOSELY at the front axle mount for marks or worn off paint where it MAY have contacted the hydraulic pump?
 
Side frame bolts that I referred to that need to have torque checked are hidden behind FEL frames in photo below. To access side frame bolt heads you will need to remove FEL mounting frames. Another possibility if my guess that hidden side frame bolts are loose is correct is you'll keep breaking hyd pump mounting brackets!!
 

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I didn't think the loader mounting frame needed to be removed because the loader mounting frames just go through the side rails into the holes connected to the block and they are all very tight.
Those frame bolts are supposed to be tapered like wheel bolts. If it is like it looks and you say and are normal bolts it can move.
 
You cannot use those eight bolts and holes to hold the loader bracket. Things will move and twisting. Side rails are loose. The special taper head rail bolts R31505 are not being used as Rockcreek 4630 and others have said. Special taper seat bolt that fit the side 16 special rail holes. Then these bolts are torque to hold the engine and steering motor tight. Two frames have broken. You have not fixed anything to prevent this from happening again. See if this frame stays in one piece?
 
Oh I see. That's good information. Thanks. I'll look into getting those bolts. I thought the pump was imbalanced causing the break but I better get these bolts just right.
 
Hi guys. Thanks for your previous help about the support bracket for this 3010 hydraulic pump from a previous thread. You guys were amazing. This website has been just great to me for probably 10 years or so.

My problem is with a 3010 that has been breaking the heavy cast iron support bracket that goes from the front of the engine block to the hydraulic pump. It broke two of them that I know of (even though I was never there at the time) and the second one broke very quickly, like in 10 minutes, just moving the loader to push a bit of snow - not heavy hard work. It's the green part in the picture below, along with the pump I'm going to put in from a 4010 donor tractor.

View attachment 76073


I was hoping I could hold the tractor up with jackalls, one on each side like the picture below. There's another jack on the other side.

View attachment 76074

And then roll the axle forward to get at the pump and support, drop them down and then bolt in the new parts. I'll show what the assembly looks like below.

View attachment 76075

I was hoping I could undo the four fasteners that hold the heavy plate to the tractor frame to detach the axle assembly from the tractor and then roll the axle ahead to get at the old parts. Do you guys think that's the way to go?

My question is about the steering linkage. Do you guys think I should detach that stuff too. And if so, how... with the four bolts up high, or one or two of the other bolts lower? Without taking apart any steering linkage it looks like the heavy plate should be able to travel forward about 6 inches or so but I don't know if that will be enough. So if I have to take some steering stuff apart i was hoping to be advised what the preferred way is.

And also, when I crack open the hydraulic lines could you guys give me a heads up on what to expect? Will there be lots of oil? Like how much? If I catch it in a clean container can I reuse it or would you guys recommend not risking it and getting new oil.

Like usual I'm very grateful for the responses and I look forward to talking with you guys.

Jay

PS: if you're interested here's how the broken parts look still in place.


View attachment 76076
There is nothing wrong with using them jacks, but make sure u have safety stands or blocks under to support the weight by lowering the jacks onto the stands of blocking. Let the jacks only hold slight weight. Safety first.
 
There is nothing wrong with using them jacks, but make sure u have safety stands or blocks under to support the weight by lowering the jacks onto the stands of blocking. Let the jacks only hold slight weight. Safety first.
Yeah the jacks worked just fine. Just to lift the axle enough so it could roll forward. I put good wood blocking under it. The jacks were just to get it raised, not to hold it.
 
Sell the loader or mount it on a subframe that allows the bolts to work holding the frame/engine. There is no other option. Jim
I think I'll sell the loader and get one that mounts differently. I don't see any other loader mounted like this and considering there's no clearance between the pump and the axle mount I don't want a loader that's mounted solely on the side rails. I have a different loader that mounts to the front two bolts (those 5/8 ones) and then farther back on the tractor or maybe I'll buy a different one after selling this one.

I'm glad you guys stuck in there and didn't let me go ahead with just putting this loader back on.
 
Side frame bolts that I referred to that need to have torque checked are hidden behind FEL frames in photo below. To access side frame bolt heads you will need to remove FEL mounting frames. Another possibility if my guess that hidden side frame bolts are loose is correct is you'll keep breaking hyd pump mounting brackets!!
I think I'll sell the loader and get one that mounts differently. I don't see any other loader mounted like this and considering there's no clearance between the pump and the axle mount I don't want a loader that's mounted solely on the side rails. I have a different loader that mounts to the front two bolts (those 5/8 ones) and then farther back on the tractor or maybe I'll buy a different one after selling this one.

I'm glad you guys stuck in there and didn't let me go ahead with just putting this loader back on.
 
Bingo had me confused as well earlier this week. I'm fairly certain they have gotten right to the heart of your problem. It is quite the complicated mount as well you will have to take every darn bolt off to get it off with one side frame rail it appears. Which if you have to order new bolts anyway doesn't matter. Does it still have a brand name on the loader or was it something someone modified? They overdid the beefing up of the loader a bit attaching it too every bolt hole they possibly could with no extras its like they built it just for this.

It honestly reminds me a bit of the White Loader the 175 Massey had. It loved to strip those bolts as well. The cross tube under is also fascinating and something the Massey was equipped with each time id move snow we would be tightening all the bolts which added to the problem there were no threads left in that engine block.
 

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