John Deere 314 Regulator question

Hi all, I have a 1983 John Deere 314 that has not been charging for several years. It rarely gets used, so I've dealt with it by unplugging the battery and have gone through several batteries. The ignition switch was replaced a few years ago. I'm finally wanting to get the underlying issue fixed. I've read several threads about charging issues directing me to the regulator and stator. While inspecting, I noticed the wire connector that goes onto the regulator (do those wires go to the stator?) looks to be shot (the bottom of the 3 is almost gone, and the 3rd prong on the regulator is also cracked off)--see pictures. I am hoping this is my problem and not the stator which I would not be able to replace myself. I have a brand new battery ready to go in. Can that connector be replaced? Thanks in advance.

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That's a very common failure, and I could write a thesis telling you how to troubleshoot it.

But most likely if you replace the overheated wiring connectors and the rectifier/VR the problem will be solved.
 
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Hi all, I have a 1983 John Deere 314 that has not been charging for several years. It rarely gets used, so I've dealt with it by unplugging the battery and have gone through several batteries. The ignition switch was replaced a few years ago. I'm finally wanting to get the underlying issue fixed. I've read several threads about charging issues directing me to the regulator and stator. While inspecting, I noticed the wire connector that goes onto the regulator (do those wires go to the stator?) looks to be shot (the bottom of the 3 is almost gone, and the 3rd prong on the regulator is also cracked off)--see pictures. I am hoping this is my problem and not the stator which I would not be able to replace myself. I have a brand new battery ready to go in. Can that connector be replaced? Thanks in advance.

View attachment 89907

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With a voltmeter set on the AC (alternating current) scale, and engine running on high speed, see if you are getting some AC volts between the two outside terminals. Remove the regulator and clean those terminals and also make sure it gets good ground thru the mounting screws.
If you poke a tiny screwdriver or knifeblade alongside those spade connectors in the plastic
holder, they will pull out. Clean them thoroughly, maybe squeeze them together slightly, for a better fit, reassemble and it probably will charge.
The two outside terminals go to the AC stator, middle is 12V DC, and it goes to the switch for charging.
 
Thank you for the info! I am going to start by trying to clean the spade connectors and regulator terminals. While googling a replacement connector, some other threads said it is John Deere part M47486. I may end up replacing it anyway since it is in bad shape.
 
Lots of good info here.
1. The AC voltage you are looking for on the white (stator) wires should be about 29 or 30 volts AC at full throttle.
If there is no or little AC voltage on those white wires, you are probably going to need to inspect/replace the stator. This involves removing the flywheel.
There is also the possibility that the magnets in the flywheel have come loose and are now stuck to the poles on stator.
2. The regulator needs a good ground. When In doubt, add a ground wire from one of the regulator mount bolts to the battery negative post, or to wherever the battery ground cable connects on the chassis. Be sure all connections are both clean and tight.
3. With the ignition switch on, you should see battery voltage between the middle wire in the regulator plug and the battery negative post. If you don't have about 12v on that wire, there you have an open circuit or a bad connection in the tractor or engine wiring.
 
Lots of good info here.
1. The AC voltage you are looking for on the white (stator) wires should be about 29 or 30 volts AC at full throttle.
If there is no or little AC voltage on those white wires, you are probably going to need to inspect/replace the stator. This involves removing the flywheel.
There is also the possibility that the magnets in the flywheel have come loose and are now stuck to the poles on stator.
2. The regulator needs a good ground. When In doubt, add a ground wire from one of the regulator mount bolts to the battery negative post, or to wherever the battery ground cable connects on the chassis. Be sure all connections are both clean and tight.
3. With the ignition switch on, you should see battery voltage between the middle wire in the regulator plug and the battery negative post. If you don't have about 12v on that wire, there you have an open circuit or a bad connection in the tractor or engine wiring.
To the O.P., below is a link to the official Kohler Service Manual in .pdf format. You can view the parts that apply, or print the manual, as you choose, for FREE.
 
Thanks for the info on tests and the link to the manual. New regulator and connector should be here in a few days. I will get them installed, do more diagnostics, and see where we're at. Will post an update after that.
 
Update: Installed the new regulator and connector. I added a ground wire on the regulator too. Getting 30+ volts between the two outside prongs and 12+ dc volts on the center. I hope this means it is charging properly. Thank you all for the comments and information!
 
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