John Deere 60 Governor spring

[sbs]

I am trying to get everything from the throttle, governor, and carburetor adjusted properly and I need some help getting the governor spring adjusted properly. The manual is pretty vague on accomplishing this. The manual just says adjust speed control rod at ball joint so that governor speed change spring just touches stop on governor arm. My 60 is a 1955 model and does not have the stop screw on the governor arm.
Any help would be appreciated

 

[hojon_1]

I had mine apart that far and baically started at the throttle and worked my way towards to carb.

First thing I did was close the throttle (Back towards operator) then adjusted the linkage between the two so you could slide a piece of paper between the spring and the govenor arm.

Next I opened the throttle and adjusted the linkage between the govenor and carb so it was the 1/2 hole short at the carb.

Your throttle has a stop screw on it and it's also adjustable for the wide open setting so be carefull when setting this up.

I went and tached my motor in the wide open position then once I had rpm's set correctly I went back checked and adjusted the linkage again.

Haven't had any issues.

 

[sbs]

Thank you for your response hojon_1 thats was helpful.

 

[Anonymous-0]

1. Make sure there is no binding, no lost motion.

2. With the engine not running, disconnect the throttle rod at the carb and with the throttle lever set at fast idle (all the way forward) adjust the rod length so that it is 1/2 hole diameter short of sliding into its normal hole on the carb when the carb is held wide open.

3. Adjust the slow idle speed throttle stop on the carb for 600 engine RPM.

4. With the carb held against the slow idle stop and the speed control lever all the way back, adjust the speed control rod length so that the throttle spring just touches the stop on the governor arm. On the early versions, that stop is just the end of the arm as opposed to the stop screw of later and LP tractors. As hojohn said a paper thickness from touching works well.

5. Adjust the throttle lever stop bolt to limit the fast idle (lever all the way forward) to 1115 RPM.


The later ones and the LP's had a "finer adjustment" via the ball joint in the speed control rod. This allowed for more governor action at dead idle than the older version. Sometimes you can do a bit of an "in between" adjustment. With the carb idle stop set at 300 or 400, (steps 1,2 and 3 above completed) with the engine running adjust the speed control rod (between lever & governor spring) to obtain a 600 RPM idle. Has pluses and minuses to it. If the tractor tends to hunt for idle speed, this can aggravate the hunting. If the governor is sluggish it will make matters worse. If the governor is OK and the engine does not tend to hunt, this adjustment can allow more action from the governor even while at dead slow idle. Sometimes shortening one turn can make it idle too fast and one turn longer makes it idle too slow. Depends a lot on how the tractor runs and if you want some governor even at dead slow idle. The early versions were not designed to govern at idle.

Later.

 

[Mike M]

Well I seem to have to adjust them differantly then the book anyhow. I make sure the idle screws are adjusted like the book says so both cylinders are running the same RPM at idle. I then set the fast idle speed per book but on the slow speed I usually end up makeing them so they run alot slower then the 500 RPM when the throttle lever is pulled back all the way. This seems to help them shut off without dieseling when good and hot. When idleing I bump my lever up a bit so as to try and keep the engine around 500 rpm as too slow of an idle is not good on them either.