John Deere B questions

[John in Ct]

I am trying to figure out some stuff on our 1944 B but everybody that would know has died. I always heard that it was hit by a car and the head was replaced with one from an A. Could an A head fit or more likely, one from a Gas B ? Also, could an A gas tank fit a B? Thanks.

 

[Paul_IN]

The cylinder head from a model A will not fit. Perhaps the model A gas tank could be made to work but I think you would quickly recognize such on inspection.

 

[wore out]

The cylinder head from a model A will not fit. Perhaps the model A gas tank could be made to work but I think you would quickly recognize such on inspection.

Yes, an "A" is a LOT larger in all respects than a "B"

 

[Fixingfarmer]

An older b head would be about the only one that would fit with different pistons I think that’s why they make new ones of the un styled head because it fits so many tractors.

I think the tank is bigger and deeper on the A than even a long frame B like said above it would be noticeable

 

[John in Ct]

An older b head would be about the only one that would fit with different pistons I think that’s why they make new ones of the un styled head because it fits so many tractors.

I think the tank is bigger and deeper on the A than even a long frame B like said above it would be noticeable

It appears that the 3-way control valve lever is about an inch lower than it should be ( hole with F and G) on the dash.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

So the late G that was here and all fuel had 2 couplers made out of a tube and a couple cotter pins to line everything up. There’s one in the shed that hasn’t been redone yet we assumed was a 44 b might be close to yours I’ll look when I get home at noon and take some pictures if nobody beats me to it.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

 

[Fixingfarmer]

The rod is missing on this one but it’s pretty much a straight shot it was probably removed to add an aftermarket starter

 

[John in Ct]

My B does not have a starter. So if I understand right, my B can only have a B head. It is in a dark building and I am trying to first get it going . I am going to have to work on the sediment bowl and 3-way valve , but from looking at it so far, I can't figure why the 3 -way control rod is about 1" lower, that is why I asked about an A gas tank fitting a B.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

yes no other model would fit. It could have an older b head is the only one I BELIEVE that would fit and it would be IF it has the right amount of studs in the right spots. If you pop the valve cover off there is a casting number in the center of the head b357r I believe is the old one without any relief in it the head is flat like a lot of Diesel engines. ive heard people would put the flat one on to increase compression on the ones that had the cyclonic head. I think you have to do something different push rod and piston or connecting rod wise but I've avoided doing it and used what was original on the ones i've done luckily two of them here are unstyled the one that is mine got one of those new heads. The stock head FOR YOURS would have a casting number of b2871R, part number of ab4204r. other possible casting part numbers would be b1784r and b2501r look up item number 200274 on yesterdays tractor and you will get a good picture of the bottom and how its not flat. all of those castings except b357r are for sure interchangeable.

a picture of your valve might help that tank fitting question it could be a different segment bowl or??? the tank straps could also be broke or missing some bolts the tank is held up by that hood I never have liked how that was all supported by the hood but the idea was to never take it apart if you were just doing head work.

does the steering wheel pedestal look the same as the one in the picture I sent or does it look more like the later one the hole for the 3 way will be higher I believe

 

[John in Ct]

Thanks for all of your help. I won't be able to get to the tractor for a good week ( wife surgery), but off the top of my head, I will say no because I do not have a starter/ battery. I should be able to check out the head when I get back to the tractor. Do you know where I can get the best quality complete carb kit? Again, thanks!

 

[Mark-Ia]

McDonald Carb and Ignition for your carb parts. (706) 367-4179

 

[Steven Allen]

Roberts Carburetor for not only parts, kits, and tools but also videos to help.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

You can order a comprehensive kit at yesterdays tractor or any of the ones mentioned above. You will spend some money on a full kit but you might as well just do it once especially if you grab that throttle shaft and it’s loose. Once you get the carb off clean it up then thread the old external fittings and needles in and leave loose but left in and paint like the pros do and it will look really nice. Then put the new pieces together and there won’t be any paint on the brass it will look sharp I choose flat hi temp black like the muffler and actually I use it on the rear axles too it makes those new brass knobs look really good and the paint withstands heat for a few years. I’ve seen some in green they look even better but the high temp flat is easier for me. It will look like a brand new carb. Roberts and j and d productions have very good videos that’s the other place that has comprehensive kits as well. Plan to spend 250 dollars to get a kit into your hands after shipping

 

[JOCCO]

John far as B's go think of it in basic as 3 series the unstyled, mid production (like yours) and late production. Now ther were other changes like long or short frame. Transmission in the mid production, Axle in the later ones. Generally, parts will only fit that series. Example not much on a 44-46 will fit the later ones.

 

[John in Ct]

I have the carb in my shop ( not near the tractor) and took my carb apart ( except for the throttle shaft bushings) and have two questions. The choke plate has 3 holes. Does the "third hole" , when inserting the plate go in first? Also, if I don't need to re-bush the throttle shaft, can I put the carb in a dip like Napa's or Berryman's and not harm the bushings? I have removed all plugs and ran wire through them.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I have the carb in my shop ( not near the tractor) and took my carb apart ( except for the throttle shaft bushings) and have two questions. The choke plate has 3 holes. Does the "third hole" , when inserting the plate go in first? Also, if I don't need to re-bush the throttle shaft, can I put the carb in a dip like Napa's or Berryman's and not harm the bushings? I have removed all plugs and ran wire through them.

The dip will not hurt the bushings. Replace the throttle plate if it's worn along the bottom half. That leaves the upper half open and you will not get a good idle adjustment. Look closely at the choke plate for the beveled edges and place it so they will meet the bore when closed. Sometimes the shaft is a bit off center and look for a pattern of discoloration on the shaft and plate. Next time snap a picture before you take it out, learned from experience.

 

[Steven Allen]

Don't rely on the dip to clean the small passages. You'll need to watch some instruction vids and get some small drill bits. Expect to put heat on the little brass plugs: when the flame turns green, you should be able to get them out without messing them up.

 

[JOCCO]

John what Steve said is critical. I have rebuilt many two cylinder carbs and bought the drills long ago. Now the issue is you need longer drills in the correct sizes. Some of the short one's won't reach.

 

[Pete in MD]

John what Steve said is critical. I have rebuilt many two cylinder carbs and bought the drills long ago. Now the issue is you need longer drills in the correct sizes. Some of the short one's won't reach.
[/Q]

To follow up on what Jocco said you need "aviation" drill bits which are 6" long.
The size bits you need for A and B single induction carbs are Size 40 and Size 53.
I got mine years ago from the McMaster-Carr catalog/website.