Jerrymouse41
Member
how exactly does the fan lock retainer come off. do you have to compress the spring like a cylinder vavle spring?
Jerrymouse41
Member
I was also wondering about the push rod sleeves. How long they are i seem to have come up with 2 small hollow tubes a few inches in length. not sure where they came from. one i found when removing the cyl head awhile back. Now yesterday i find one after removing the cyl block. i only see in the it manual that b use them nothing much more. The parts catalog or JDParts doesnt give a description. i am wondering if these are the 2 pushrods i was expecting them to be much longer in length. any ideas? I had order a gasket set and instead of lead washers i recieved copper ones. Do i still need lead ones to seal. how do i seal if i dont need lead ones. What type sealer should i apply with gaskets.
You have been loaded with a lot of general questions - many of which would be answered in most half-way decent tractor restoration books. Have you bought one of these yet? Or do you expect to use this forum as your restoration guide?
Some really great works are out there by folks like Tharran Gaines, J.R Hobbs, and Spencer Yost – with titles that suggest the book contains “how to” information. It just so happens that I also have a restoration guide on the market – mainly for “H” tractors, but over half is generic to all JD two-cylinders. If his is your first restoration, I highly suggest you send some money and then sit down away form your keyboard and read up on tractor restoration.
These writers spent years developing products you need, and then watch with disdain as you write in for new direction at each and every step of the way. You may begin by visiting greenmagazine-dot-com, and then select the “book store”. (PatB)
The Green Magazine
Some really great works are out there by folks like Tharran Gaines, J.R Hobbs, and Spencer Yost – with titles that suggest the book contains “how to” information. It just so happens that I also have a restoration guide on the market – mainly for “H” tractors, but over half is generic to all JD two-cylinders. If his is your first restoration, I highly suggest you send some money and then sit down away form your keyboard and read up on tractor restoration.
These writers spent years developing products you need, and then watch with disdain as you write in for new direction at each and every step of the way. You may begin by visiting greenmagazine-dot-com, and then select the “book store”. (PatB)
The Green Magazine
Look into buying a restoration guide!
There was an error in the link in my earlier post. Try this one. (PatB)
The Green Magazine
There was an error in the link in my earlier post. Try this one. (PatB)
The Green Magazine
Jerrymouse41
Member
i have a it manual , however it is sometimes vauge in its description on how to go about certain things. So i thought i would ask a few questions. yes this is my first time ever dealing with a tractor, so i do not want to do something the wrong way break something or even hurt myself. I guess i wont be so enthused about hearing from the experts on a little helpful info. Yes i have read some of yost books but they too can be a little vauge to someone who has never started, repaired or even driven one. Sorry to be looking for any help.
The IT manual is a SHOP SERVICE MANUAL, and NOT a Restoration Guide. You tossed good money for little value when buying that one! If your tractor is “B” with serial number of 96000 or higher, you need to find and buy SM2004. Goggle it!
You also need to buy one of Tharran Gaine’s books or mine – a book that addresses lots of pidley little things you come across for the first time. But since you closed your post with a bit of sarcasm, I’d rather you bought someone else’s book – but surely – you need one! (PatB)
You also need to buy one of Tharran Gaine’s books or mine – a book that addresses lots of pidley little things you come across for the first time. But since you closed your post with a bit of sarcasm, I’d rather you bought someone else’s book – but surely – you need one! (PatB)
Jerry mouse,
Please feel free to ask all the questions you want. That is what this forum is for. Most everyone understands this. The only bad question is the one not asked. It would be a dull, dull place if nobody had a question.
Welcome to the tractor restoration world. I like your thought to stay safe and not break anything. Very good advice for us all.
Can you post a picture of the tubes you found?
Kurt
Please feel free to ask all the questions you want. That is what this forum is for. Most everyone understands this. The only bad question is the one not asked. It would be a dull, dull place if nobody had a question.
Welcome to the tractor restoration world. I like your thought to stay safe and not break anything. Very good advice for us all.
Can you post a picture of the tubes you found?
Kurt
Jerry, you will find the answer in this forum to just about every question you may come up with! Even with manuals and guides, there is nothing like the experience of the people here. It has helped me through many tractor questions and issues. Sometimes things just aren't clear until someone puts it into words you understand. Good luck...Paul
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
The push rod tube length is equal to the width of the head. Yes, I would use lead, it will smash as you tighten the nuts and you will get a much better seal. You can get both from your JD dealer.
Jerrymouse,
The pushrod tubes are mounted in the head, and they will be about the same length as the head is thick. Depending on the model of your 'B', there will be either two or four. You can look into the head where the pushrods pass through and see if the tubes are in place. The pushrods pass through the waterjacket of the head, and these tubes are what keep the water from getting in the crankcase. I am thinking you are saying you found them loose somewhere? That's odd.
The lead washers are really there to act as a lubricant as you turn in the bolts. If you want lead ones you can get them from John Deere.
I used coppercoat on my head gasket - actually on the head and block. Some folks use nothing. The Deere manual recommends soaking in oil, but I would not do this as the composition of the head gaskets has changed.
By the way, you can get a copy of the B service manual from Deerly Departed for about half the cost of getting it from Deere. It is one of the best service manuals ever written, and is worth every penny. Much more useful than the IT manual.
Kurt
The pushrod tubes are mounted in the head, and they will be about the same length as the head is thick. Depending on the model of your 'B', there will be either two or four. You can look into the head where the pushrods pass through and see if the tubes are in place. The pushrods pass through the waterjacket of the head, and these tubes are what keep the water from getting in the crankcase. I am thinking you are saying you found them loose somewhere? That's odd.
The lead washers are really there to act as a lubricant as you turn in the bolts. If you want lead ones you can get them from John Deere.
I used coppercoat on my head gasket - actually on the head and block. Some folks use nothing. The Deere manual recommends soaking in oil, but I would not do this as the composition of the head gaskets has changed.
By the way, you can get a copy of the B service manual from Deerly Departed for about half the cost of getting it from Deere. It is one of the best service manuals ever written, and is worth every penny. Much more useful than the IT manual.
Kurt
Jerrymouse,
The lock does work like a valve spring retainer, and you have to push the fan down the shaft to get them out. On my '37 B which has the original design fan and hub, I was able to shoot a little PB blaster into the spline and then tap the center hub of the fan assembly a little until it freed up enough to slide. Easy Peasy.
On my '51 B with the new friction hub design I tried for a month to free it up including using a hydraulic press. The pot metal of the friction disks has fused to the shaft. I finally had to cut the disks and keeper away to get it loose. Fortunately Deere still sold these parts.
Good luck,
Kurt
The lock does work like a valve spring retainer, and you have to push the fan down the shaft to get them out. On my '37 B which has the original design fan and hub, I was able to shoot a little PB blaster into the spline and then tap the center hub of the fan assembly a little until it freed up enough to slide. Easy Peasy.
On my '51 B with the new friction hub design I tried for a month to free it up including using a hydraulic press. The pot metal of the friction disks has fused to the shaft. I finally had to cut the disks and keeper away to get it loose. Fortunately Deere still sold these parts.
Good luck,
Kurt
sunsettractor
Member
You know mr p browning, you have given a lot of advice here, but it seems more and more you are just using this site to market your own stuff. Your nose in the air reply to this guy just looking for a little advice warrants his minor remark in my opinion, you earned it. There are a lot of other enthusiasts selling parts and books out there who gladly give away advice to us ignorant dummys that are having a problem with our old pos hobby tractor. Frankly , I am sick of you and everyone else that sits in front of the computer all day, waiting to to tell some unsuspecting newbie that searched google, Yes GOOGLE is how thats spelled, for antique tractor and was directed to this great website, only to be shot down and told to go buy a book, manual, vidio, download, ect ect ect, by you and all the other regulars who know it all. I sure am not going to buy your book, and I think you should pull the stick out of your A##, and spend more time finding a different place to market your product. Have a great day!!...Tom
Well Tom -- I appreciate your point of view. I really didn't try to sell JERRYMOUSE anything. I only recognized a need. Personally, I felt he would find Therran Gaine's "How To" book extremely valuable - but then, there is no assurance he would read it. You will have to admit - having the IT manual in front of you leaves alot to be told!
If you look back over his recent postings, you will find this fellow hasn't just asked a few questions - he has come to depend on this site to guide his entire restoration!
As for peddling my wares on the site, I believe you will find I have been quite conservative - citing a product ONLY when it appears to really be one a person needs.
And to JERRYMOUSE - I say that you remain as welcome as you can imagine to come on here and ask questions. For some you will receive answers, and for some you may be shown a pathway to a place where the answer is. And if this "showing where the answer is" thing is what is bothering Tom, I reckon his choice of language will give us all the answer of where he is coming from! He is frustrated. Perhaps its been a long day for all of us. (PatB)
If you look back over his recent postings, you will find this fellow hasn't just asked a few questions - he has come to depend on this site to guide his entire restoration!
As for peddling my wares on the site, I believe you will find I have been quite conservative - citing a product ONLY when it appears to really be one a person needs.
And to JERRYMOUSE - I say that you remain as welcome as you can imagine to come on here and ask questions. For some you will receive answers, and for some you may be shown a pathway to a place where the answer is. And if this "showing where the answer is" thing is what is bothering Tom, I reckon his choice of language will give us all the answer of where he is coming from! He is frustrated. Perhaps its been a long day for all of us. (PatB)
Jerrymouse..... get a manual.
It will save you tons of trouble. They are a very valuable when working on your B. Your questions reflect that you are trying to fix your tractor the best you can, and a manual will help avoid costly problems later.
Everyone will be here for your questions, and good answers will follow no matter what.
I recommend a manual simply because it is just another tool that you need, just like the wrenches you use. I learned quickly that an I.T. manual helps, but surely isnt what you need to do any wrenching.
Do yourself and favor and 'invest' in a quality repair manual. You will be very glad you did.
My 2¢.
It will save you tons of trouble. They are a very valuable when working on your B. Your questions reflect that you are trying to fix your tractor the best you can, and a manual will help avoid costly problems later.
Everyone will be here for your questions, and good answers will follow no matter what.
I recommend a manual simply because it is just another tool that you need, just like the wrenches you use. I learned quickly that an I.T. manual helps, but surely isnt what you need to do any wrenching.
Do yourself and favor and 'invest' in a quality repair manual. You will be very glad you did.
My 2¢.
greenmech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Lakeville MN
Could these tubes be cam followers from near the cam shaft? Ron Mn.
Jerrymouse41
Member
Well just to inform you i was informed to buy the it manual by several individuals. Some who sold parts and some that worked directly at Deere. So i thought i did buy the right manual to help me out. I never even heard of the Service Manual for John Deere Model B Tractor SM2004. If so i would of bought that for sure. Now i will be buying that one. Thanks to Mr. Browning for letting me in on the info. I am displeased that the people at Deere were not very forth coming with any inforelated to the book. See thats is why i decided to ask questions on here because i was feeling left out in the cold by the IT manual and yes i did read some restoration books at the library and i felt that after being told to buy the IT i bought one to help me out , guess not so much help is the IT manual to someone unfamilliar with tractors.
If I was Jerrymouse41 I would want the address of Pat Browning and go an give him a little attitude adjustment. MR. BROWNING I have restored over twenty-five John Deere two cylinders. I did not find any of Jerrymouse41s questions to be out of line for this forum. If he wants to just skip it the next time and email me he is more than welcome.
ALL YOU OLD TRACTOR GUYs HERE HAD BETTER WAKE UP. There are not very many "new" people in this area. If you want those old tractors you love to have any value then there will need to be someone younger/newer to buy them. Also to bridge the gap to the younger generation.
Jerrymouse41 here is my email [email protected] if you email I will give you my phone number. You can call and ask any question you want. As for you PBrowning. I will make darn sure to never buy any of the books YOU think are so grand.
ALL YOU OLD TRACTOR GUYs HERE HAD BETTER WAKE UP. There are not very many "new" people in this area. If you want those old tractors you love to have any value then there will need to be someone younger/newer to buy them. Also to bridge the gap to the younger generation.
Jerrymouse41 here is my email [email protected] if you email I will give you my phone number. You can call and ask any question you want. As for you PBrowning. I will make darn sure to never buy any of the books YOU think are so grand.
oilburner350
Member
Jerrymouse41- Years ago my dad rebuilt the transmission in my grandpa's B with just an IT manual. You did the right thing by buying a manual. The factory one will probably serve you better, but you statrted off right. Keep in mind that when these tractors were new the Operator's manual cost extra. I wonder if they mention that in the restoration guide?
On the Massey Ferguson Forum here there was an old mechanic nammed "Big Dean". He was a wealth of information. He had knowledge from working 20+ years in the shop. He always had time to answer questions, no matter what they were. There are probably a lot more Massey Fergusons still going thanks to him.
On the Massey Ferguson Forum here there was an old mechanic nammed "Big Dean". He was a wealth of information. He had knowledge from working 20+ years in the shop. He always had time to answer questions, no matter what they were. There are probably a lot more Massey Fergusons still going thanks to him.
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