Jubilee Carb Elbow

[CMM]

Dinking around with my 53 Jubilee today...Big Mistake. I removed the brass carb elbow to check the screen. No problem, but when I reinstalled I used a little too much elbow grease and it snapped off flush with the elbow threads threaded into the carb. How do I get it out? And will I get crud in the carb getting it out? Moral of the story, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Thanks for the help.

 

[old]

A good E-Z out will do it but as I said a good one. Or a left hand drill bit may do it. A good E-Z out set will cost you around $75 or so but you might get lucky that a hard ware store $3 one might work but do not push it to much. Ya BTDT and I now own a good set of E-Z outs and payed for them but it has been worth it. So far more ten 10 year that I have had them and only broke one

 

[GB in MT.]

(quoted from post at 22:33:54 09/29/10) Dinking around with my 53 Jubilee today...Big Mistake. I removed the brass carb elbow to check the screen. No problem, but when I reinstalled I used a little too much elbow grease and it snapped off flush with the elbow threads threaded into the carb. How do I get it out? And will I get crud in the carb getting it out? Moral of the story, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Thanks for the help.

b:99795c6b02][i:99795c6b02]
Assuming that is a, Marvel/Schebler TSX carb......The main fuel inlet hole, is 1/8"-27 National Pipe Thred, and the drill size to drill the brass out of the hole is 21/64"..........But, assuming you have never drilled into cast, and have never used a tap and dye set, to make new threds for that elbow screen......JMHO...I think you should take the carb down to a local machine shop, and have THEM extract the elbow threds, for you.
If the drill bit is not straight while drilling that out, you will always have a fuel leak from that inlet, even after the new threds are tapped in!!!
Easy to do if ya know how....bad news, if ya mess up!!! :roll:

Gary [/i:99795c6b02][/b:99795c6b02]

 

[HCooke]

Rich, There is nothing 'easy' about an Easyout. My least favorite tool. Although getting the remnants of a brass pipe out of cast is a good place to use one.

Harold

 

[souNdguy]

you should be looking at a hollow brass sleave into a cast iron carb. I'd use an extractor if you can get one in there.. a flat blade screwdriver might even work.

soundguy

 

[ericlb]

id try a ease out first and like already said this is a area where you need to spend the money do not buy a cheap ease out set, if its made anywhere but the usa and your not stagering from the price of the set, dont buy it, cheap ones break off, or will not grip the fitting, and you think you have problems now, just wait until you break a china man's ease out off in there, spend the money on a good set and you should be able to remove it,and you'll thank yourself every time you use the set, and if your playing with old tractors you will use it right regularly, if your not comfortable doing that take the carb off and take it to a good mechanic and let him do it, may cost a few bucks but better than having a broken carb

 

[lha]

A set of left hand bits is a good thing to have.Use one that is just larger than the i.d.of the brass,it will probably break loose when it meets a little resistance.---lha

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 23:33:54 09/29/10) Dinking around with my 53 Jubilee today...Big Mistake. I removed the brass carb elbow to check the screen. No problem, but when I reinstalled I used a little too much elbow grease and it snapped off flush with the elbow threads threaded into the carb. How do I get it out? And will I get crud in the carb getting it out? Moral of the story, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Thanks for the help.

Know your tool and it's application. Easy outs work well for this sort of problem - a fastener that breaks off from over tightening. The threads are not corroded in place or galled and minimal torque is needed to back them out. Easy outs don't work well at all for a fastener that wrings off when being removed. The threads are corroded, damaged, and/or galled and the torque required to turn them is more than the fastener body can handle - an easy out isn't going to be any stronger.

TOH

 

[old]

Ya that is why the set of E-Z outs I have cost so much money they work well 95% of the time but they are not the cheap ones you find in most places.

 

[Anonymous-0]

if my mind serves me you have a wire screen on the end of the brass fitting. thats ok, if you want to keep you gas clean put a inline filter in your gas line. or to get the right part to go back in find a parts catalog and order one. but be carefull about removing the old one you don't want to cut into you carb if you can keep from it so take great pain in removing your old fitting