Jubilee Oil Questions

[Anonymous-0]

What's the best oil to use in the crankcase of a Ford Jubilee and how much should I use?

If memory serves, I should use SAE 10W and if I'm changing the filter at the same time I'll need 5 quarts.

Is that about right?

 

[Mike OH]

I personally believe any top grade detergent oil will do nicely. The owners manual says to use SAE 20 above 32 degrees F. and SAE 10W below 32 F. They also recommend using SAE 5W below 10 degrees F.

I however have used non detergent 30 weight oil in mine for the last 35 years and have had no problem. If I ever do a rebuild on it I will use 15W 40 high detergent oil.

 

[Jubilee85]

Jason,

Bruce here in Virginia has the best answer, I'll paraphrase. THEY DIDNT HAVE THE MULTIVIS then...

so they used 30w and in the winter changed to 10w

I live in a climate that goes from 15 degrees to 100 degrees .....I have good oil pressure and use 10-40.....no problems......if pressure is a problem then bump up to a little thinker oil.

Many here use the diesel oil....has more additives in it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Silly question, perhaps but how much? 5 qt?

 

[souNdguy]

if yuo have good oil pressure, 15w40 is a good year round.. or 30w in super hot areas.

6qts so you can also service the air cleaner.

soundguy

 

[Gaspump]

I get a chuckle whenever I see they didn't have back then. Since I was there I just have to say that yes we did have detergent motor oil, yes we had Multi-vis motor oil (since the 40's), popular use in autos in the latter 50's, common usage since the early 60's. And guess what we even had synthetic motor oil, it actually was an emergency alternate oil for WWII. These things just cost more so why would one put them in a tractor!

 

[Jubilee85]

well, I was born in 61..... but I never heard of synthetic till I got a little engine skills.
But the question still is ....why change? Well if 30 straight was the right choice now, why arent ALL piston driven things using it? I havent seen anything in the last 10 years call for 30 weight.
Ok, maybe I did see a air compressor call for 30 weight. My little pea brain thinks that the NEW stuff ought to be better than the oil stuff, NOT true with everything .....my 53 is still running @ 56 years old, hope I am still running 8 years from now !

 

[Dell (WA)]

Jubie......you ask......"if 30 straight was the right choice now, why arent ALL piston driven things using it?".......its called EPA and miles/per gallon race between automobile mfgrs. 5w and 10wwt based oil is now specified for modern engines to cut-down on engine drag from oil viscosity friction for more mpg braggin' rights. Engine life is usually NOT an issue with disposable modern rice-rockets.

My 1995 Dodge Cummins Diesel pickup is supposed to go 500,000mi before needing a re-build and it gitts 20w-50 diesel spec oil. So does my eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N and my 1976 MGB, and my 1969 BMW 2002 semi-race engine with 387,000mi. .......Dell, who knows how to read and understand engine oil specs

 

[lha]

I use 15w-45 diesel rated oil year round here in tennessee in my 41 9n and holds good oil pressure(45-50 COLD,15-20 HOT)and stays clean until Ichange it---lha

 

[Jubilee85 (VA)]

Dell you write "10wwt based oil is now specified for modern engines to cut-down on engine drag from oil viscosity friction"

I see that you answered my question exactly.....

I am sure as you know, 90% of all engine wear occurs at start up on a cold engine.

you also state that "its called EPA and miles/per gallon race "

well now, if FRICTION is related to MPG ......well gollalee as Gomer Pyle would say.... my point. Friction = Bad and less friction = better

There are those that say that synthetic to "TOO" slick ......my my.....ignorance at its finest.

My information gathered by those who put it in place EVERYDAY ...on and off the track. Thanks for your input

 

[Dell (WA)]

Jubie......you MISSED the point. Modern rice-rockets are designed from the gitt-goe for thin oil.

Yer N-tractor was designed for 30wt oil. It has a "by-pass" oil filter, meaning only about 10% of the oil pumped gitts filtered unlike modern full-flow oil systems.

While modern oil is sooooo much better'n 1939's 30wt, DO NOT USE 10-30 or 5-20 for daily work. Why? 'cuz it really is 10wt or 5wt oil with temperature sensitive additives that makes it act like heavier oil when HOT, but it's STILL 10wt oil.

Ford even recommended adding a qt of KEROSINE for thinning the 30wt for wintertime eaze of starting. Would you do that today??? I wouldn't. And Ford also recommended 40wt oil for HOT SUMMER time which is GOOD.

Did you know that OIL is yer engines most important COOLANT??? NOT RADIATOR WATER. Isn't that amazing???? ......respectfully, Dell, who knows how to read and understand oil specifications.

 

[Jubilee85 (VA)]

amen on the latter points

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 14:14:33 08/27/09) I get a chuckle whenever I see they didn't have back then. Since I was there I just have to say that yes we did have detergent motor oil, yes we had Multi-vis motor oil (since the 40's), popular use in autos in the latter 50's, common usage since the early 60's. And guess what we even had synthetic motor oil, it actually was an emergency alternate oil for WWII. These things just cost more so why would one put them in a tractor!

Excuse me sir - while I was not there I don't think so - better double check your timeline. The SAE didn't create the [b:9ff8d9b6a7] winter mono-grades [/b:9ff8d9b6a7](e.g. W grades as in SAE 5W, SAE 10W, SAE 20W) until 1952 so how could there possibly have been a [b:9ff8d9b6a7]multi-grade[/b:9ff8d9b6a7] prior to that? Up through 1951 Ford was still specifying SAE 20 and SAE 30 for winter use. The 1952 600/800 Owner's Manual specifies SAE 5W, SAE 10W, or SAE 20W for winter use and either SAE 20 or SAE 30 for summer use. Still no mono-grades in 1954 apparently.

Special note to Dell:

As demonstrated by the 600/800 recommendation Ford knew and understood as early as 1954 that SAE 10W and SAE 10 are not the same viscosity grade :shock: You apparently still don't comprehend that and continue to parrot that "it's really a 10 weight oil" BS :shock: :shock: The use of winter (W) grades and multi-grade oils dates back to the early 50's, twenty years before the EPA was even created and 25 years before the EPA's first MPG rating was released. Winter/multi-grade oils were not invented to address government gas mileage requierments - they were invented to [b:9ff8d9b6a7]describe[/b:9ff8d9b6a7] the cold weather nature of an oil [b:9ff8d9b6a7]in addition to [/b:9ff8d9b6a7]its high temperature viscosity and extend the temperature range in which an oil perfomed acceptably. The reason multigrade oils were originally developed was to get the cold weather performance of Winter (W) grade and summer (no W) grade oils in a single product. Multigrade oils give better protection at cold startup while maintaining viscosity and protection at running temps. Their impact on MPG ratings is a johnny-come-lately issue entirely separate from their primary purpose.

For Dell or anyone else that would like to read a reasonably accurate FUD free albeit somewhat wordy discussion of the development of that timeline and the addition of the winter/multi grades to the specification:

[u:9ff8d9b6a7]TOH's monograph on the Motor Oil Viscosity Standard[/u:9ff8d9b6a7]


TOH - not an oil expert - just an informed consumer