Jubilee runs rough under load

I just checked mine and I do have that big white external resister behind the dash. From what I've read I can leave it but may get a weaker spark. If I want to use an internally resisted coil can I just eliminate the external one by connecting the white wire to the other side of the resistor?

NAPA IC14 doesn't specify if it's internal or external resisted. Standard Motor Products # UC15 picture on the side says USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR. I see #UC15T is a Standard Motor Products with internal resistor.
 
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I just checked mine and I do have that big white external resister behind the dash. From what I've read I can leave it but may get a weaker spark. If I want to use an internally resisted coil can I just eliminate the external one by connecting the white wire to the other side of the resistor?

NAPA IC14 doesn't specify if it's internal or external resisted. Standard Motor Products # UC15 picture on the side says USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR. I see #UC15T is a Standard Motor Products with internal resistor.

If I am going to look at a stock photo online some seller stick in their ad, I'll go with the one from the manufacturer's catalog. This is the one used on the SMP catalog page for the UC15.

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And here are the installation instructions.

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The NAPA IC14 crosses to the UC15 (Standard makes the Echlin parts for NAPA).

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The T suffix on a SMP Part means it is from their "Trade" line which is a lower cost alternative to go against more of the aftermarket suppliers' products. So, there is a UC15 coil and a UC15T coil in the SMP catalog. Not all SMP products have "T" option and some now are only available in the "T" grade.
 
In line fuel filter don't work well on gravity flow systems. I have probably thrown at least 30 of them away on tractor I have been asked to fix and that was in fact the fix for them. I charge a case of beer for each one I have thrown away
Why does dennys carb shop sell so many in line filter kits if they don’t work?
 
OK the problem is not the carburetor (at least not entirely). Put the new one on. Did a flow test at the large plug at bottom of carb. Filled a pint in 3 minutes 40 seconds. Much better than original carb. Started right up and within a minute started to run rough. Not too bad at idle but 1/2 throttle or more it starts cutting out bad. Next thing will be new coil that's coming tomorrow.

At least I have a dry carburetor now. If I left the valve at the sediment bowl open before the entire carb would be wet and dripping in a few minutes. The new one stays dry.
 
The coil was the problem. I put on a new 12V internally resisted one and it starts and runs good now. I still haven't got the new carb set properly. In every gear and about any amount of throttle it stumbles when I let out the clutch. Only for a second then picks back up like it should. Any suggestions on that?
 
The coil was the problem. I put on a new 12V internally resisted one and it starts and runs good now. I still haven't got the new carb set properly. In every gear and about any amount of throttle it stumbles when I let out the clutch. Only for a second then picks back up like it should. Any suggestions on that?
Open the main jet adjustment a 1/2-1 turn out
 
1/2 to 1 turn more than it is or from bottom? I think I initially set it to 2 turns from bottom.
1/2-1 turn from where it is. Another way to see ifthat would help before doing it is choke it a bit. If it runs better with a bit of choke it is running to lean
 
What is the needle at the front? I think it's idle mixture adjustment? All I've seen on it is to set it 1 full turn from bottom. Is there a procedure for fine tuning it?
 
As long as the carb isn't broken in some way I would stay with the one that came on it when new. While some of the replacement carb work the factory ones as still better. As for the screen if you have a farm and home supply store close they are likely to have one
OK, so I'm updating this thread just to give you all a chance to say I told you so. Before I discovered the coil was my main problem I put a new carburetor on it from Amazon. You know where it was made. It ran OK after a good bit of playing with it. Today I took it down into this valley and when I tried to come back up the fairly steep hill it died. I tried several things like eliminating the in-line fuel filter just before he carb and put more gas in it. Then I went ahead and put the original carb back. Pulled right up the hill. Actually runs better now than it did. So far I haven't seen the gas leaking out which made me believe it had a float problem. I'm on my way to UPS to return this carb.
 

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