Jubilee steering linkage

JD60677

Member
I am tearing down my jubilee to paint it. I cannot get the draglinks off of the arms of the steering box or the front spindles. I tried removing the nuts and tapping on them with a hammer, but they wont budge. Any advice or tricks that would help with removal? Thanks.
 
I had the same problem. The guy on myfordtractors.com has the best solution so far:
liberally apply penetrating oil to the bolts
if you dont want to save the tie rod ends, get a tool called a "pickle fork" from autozone or oreilly , insert between the rod end and pittman arm and whale away at them with a hammer.
If you do want to save the ends and boots:
Get a steel wood splitting wedge, place between the end of the bolt and the axle casting or transmission housing, then strike the steering arm or pittman arm several sharp blows. Usually that will do it.
Illustrations are on the aforementioned web site.
 
probbaly 25 different ways to get the arms off either side.

a 2 jay puller removes the sector arm with ease.. though hitting on both sides of the socket with a hammer usually pops front or rear off.

pickle fork almost always takes the front apart too.. eats the ruber boot.. but you should repalce them anyway if taking apart.

soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 21:03:29 06/26/12) I had the same problem. The guy on myfordtractors.com has the best solution so far:
liberally apply penetrating oil to the bolts
if you dont want to save the tie rod ends, get a tool called a "pickle fork" from autozone or oreilly , insert between the rod end and pittman arm and whale away at them with a hammer.
If you do want to save the ends and boots:
Get a steel wood splitting wedge, place between the end of the bolt and the axle casting or transmission housing, then strike the steering arm or pittman arm several sharp blows. Usually that will do it.
Illustrations are on the aforementioned web site.

The first time I herd of a wedge used to remove pitman arms a guy that went by WillyN posted it 10/12 years ago... It flew under the wire till I revived it,,, John Smith always does a good job of splain'n things... Why anyone would use a pickle fork tie rod end destroyer is beyond me when a wedge is so simple and non destructive... If the ends are not going to be reused then it does not mater beat away.. Give the wedge trick a try it will make a believer out of ya good are bad ends...
 
Couldn"t have said it better myself!
I used that technique. Couldn"t believe how easy it
was. Had a steel wedge I got from my dad and was
using it as a door stop. Now its in my rollaway and
is classified as a tool...
 
Would you believe I've had all the tie rod ends off the steering arms on all my tractors except my NH 7610s, and used a pickle fork on all of them, and have never damaged a tie rod end....

the rubbers? sure.. the end? never..

if someone is dmaging a TRE with a pickle fork.. they are doing something wrong IMHO....

soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 16:13:20 06/27/12) Would you believe I've had all the tie rod ends off the steering arms on all my tractors except my NH 7610s, and used a pickle fork on all of them, and have never damaged a tie rod end....

the rubbers? sure.. the end? never..

if someone is dmaging a TRE with a pickle fork.. they are doing something wrong IMHO....

soundguy

Would you believe,,, YES.... Not every situation is as acceptably to the wedge trick as a Ford is... I am not a believer in a universal fork for all applications and know its possible to damage a rod end socket with a fork.. Their are times were a fork is the only option I will not go their unless its that time...

I always used the hammer trick till I brought a FWD hub tool set that had a nice tie rod end remover,,, its slicker than snot on a door knob but not of much use on ford tractor Pittman arms...
 
I pretty much destroyed the rubber boots when I pressure washed the 60 years of grease and grime from the tractor. I will try the picklefork idea. Thanks for the help.
 
(quoted from post at 04:35:24 06/28/12) speaking of "boots" where can i get some that don't rot off in less than a year. thanks rc

www.external_link is were i get mine

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=617549&highlight=dust

The most important part is that you git the ware plate pressed over the big part of the stud so it floats in the grove machined in the stud,,, once installed on the tractor you should B able to easily push the ware plate away from the arm If it binds on the stud it will twist and tear the boot

Don't over grease the boot,,, I have yet to figger out what one could coat the inside of the boot to keep it from wick'n grease,,, remember its a dust seal not a grease seal.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top