Kawasaki 23 HP 2 CYLINDER ENGINE

[lenray]

I HAVE THIS Kawasaki 23 HP engine on a zero turn mower. Sometimes it runs perfect. Maybe the next time it will be way low on power. Sometimes a little choke will get it going. I have pulled the plug wires off one at a time on different occasions with no change. TODAY pulling one plug wire off stops the engine. And it will go back and forth as to what plug wire will kill the engine.
Coils???? Carb.??? I have owned since new and have taken very good care of this mower....

 

[JD Dave]

You don't give us the engine model. Usually, the Kawasaki twins are very reliable. Check your fuel quality and supply, filters, fuel pump and carb cleaning. Very rarely are these symptoms caused by an ignition problem. Nevertheless, most manufacturer's tech manuals will give you a troubleshooting section for the engine model used or Google Kawasaki and the engine model number for specific information.

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 15:32:44 05/30/22) I HAVE THIS Kawasaki 23 HP engine on a zero turn mower. Sometimes it runs perfect. Maybe the next time it will be way low on power. Sometimes a little choke will get it going. I have pulled the plug wires off one at a time on different occasions with no change. TODAY pulling one plug wire off stops the engine. And it will go back and forth as to what plug wire will kill the engine.
Coils???? Carb.??? I have owned since new and have taken very good care of this mower....

I don't think "pulling plug wires off" is a good idea because of the high voltage spikes this will cause at the coils/electronic ignition units.

Many V-twins (which I assume this is) have diodes in the harness that connects the two ignition units to the "kill" terminal.

These allow the two ignition units to work independently, yet allow them to connect to a common "kill" terminal.

I wonder if you could have issues with that harness or one or both diodes IF your specific engine uses them.

I have dealt with similar problems from mouse damage in that area.

 

[Dave BN]

Cousins zero turn with kawasaki did that. Problem got worse over time. Replaced the coils and runs perfect.
Dave

 

[Steve@Advance]

The first thing to do, just to say you did, install new plugs.

I have chased problems needlessly just like this and the problem was solved by replacing perfectly good looking plugs!

Choke assist can be deceiving, it can remedy both lean condition and weak spark.

Wouldn't hurt to take the carb off, ease the bowl off, take a look, clean it out, clean the main jet with a stiff wire. Just spraying and blowing will not remove dried ethanol residue, it has to be scraped out of the jet, down to bare metal without actually enlarging the hole.

But, usually a clogged carb will not be intermittent, it will run or not run. Fuel delivery can be intermittent. Water in the fuel can be intermittent. Look for rotten fuel lines, pieces of rubber can flake off the inside and clog the fuel pump, cracked lines can suck air. If there are 2 tanks, the change over valve can suck air.

The spark... Removing either wire should make a drastic difference. At idle removing one wire may kill the engine, but up to speed it would make a noticeable difference. If removing one wire does not make a difference, check that wire for spark delivery. I like to use a test light, it won't make the light light, but it makes a safe insulated handle (with the other end grounded) to stick inside the boot and observe the spark. Running up to speed it should easily give a 1/2 inch or more spark. Remember, you have to catch it in the act to prove anything.

If you do find weak or no spark, open the top cowling and unplug the kill wires from the coils, replace the cover, take it for a trial run. Just be aware once started the ignition nor safety switches will not stop the engine! If that solves the spark problem, look for a shorted wire to ground, or some have a diode in the wire between the coils. A shorted diode will kill one or both coils.

While the cowling is off, be a good time to clean out the cooling fins, and check the intake bolts, be sure they are tight an no sign of vacuum leaks.

Another possibility could be valve problems. A loose valve seat can cause intermittent compression problems. But save that for last! Not sure if that has solid or hydraulic lifters, need the model and serial numbers to research that. If solid be a good time to set them by the book procedure, don't guess!

Let us know what you find...

 

[DoubleR]

I have a JD Gator with a Kawasaki the acts up ever now and again. Its got over 2300 hrs on it. I let the gas tank get down and dump a can of Sea-Foam in the tank. It will straighten out and run normal after a bit and run ok for another 6 months.

 

[T.R.K.]

In Kawasaki engines, the diodes are actually in the ignition modules, not in the harness between them. So it is possible to have a 'no-
spark' condition from a coil but the actual cause is a bad diode in the opposite coil. And that coil can still be making a 'good' spark.

 

[T.R.K.]

It would be helpful if you told us what make/kind of mower this engine was on. If it goes back and forth to which coil kills the engine. Try disconnecting the white? wire at the engine plug. (I know it is not the green wire, that goes to the fuel solenoid.) Keep in mind that you are now bypassing all the safety equipment on the mower.

What we are trying to do is to determine of the problem is on the chassis or on the engine. (I recall one Toro zero turn that was doing similar (But only one cylinder, it did not swap around) and the problem was a partial ground from the delay module on the chassis.)

If that doesn't make any changes, then I am pretty sure you have a fuel problem. Have you tried running it on a separate test tank with known-good fuel in it?

 

[lenray]

It is the Commercial cub cadet called the Tank zero turn...

 

[ThadS]

I have the 19HP flavor of this engine. I second the post about checking the coils. The manual can be found online and explains how to check the coil resistance with a multimeter so you don't have to guess which one. The gap to the flywheel is very tight and make sure you get it spaced correctly when installing a new coil.
The other thing on these engines is to adjust the valves regularly if they are out of spec.

 

[westga]

pull all the electrical plugs and make sure you don't have a rusted pin or a rusted off pin in one of the plugs. This is what I found just this morning on my gator. It ran ruff a couple of days and then quit altogether.

 

[rubberwrench]

Check the butterfly in the carb it could be loose. This allows intermittent operation of power.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Instead of paying big bucks for a carb and coils, I put a want ad on craigslist for a blown Kohler engine. A guy had one off a cub ztr that had less than 400 hrs. I got it cheap. Removed starter, carb, voltage regulator, charging coils and ignition coils then sold it for what I paid for it. One head was damaged by grass blocking cooling fins. Someone wanted just the block..

Sometimes changing parts is the only way to solve your problem, but that's expensive..

Perhaps someone on YTs garden tractor may have parts and suggestions.

A place in town sells gravely ztrs and mower parts .
All gravelys they sell have Kawasaki engines.
One has the expensive Michelin airless tires.

First thing I would do is replace gas. New gas add sea foam and ATF. Next change plugs. Do a compression test. Look for clean plugs. Checking valve clearance. My Kawasaki mule says check valves at 50 hours and then at 500 hours. Then replace coils, and carb.

 

[johnlobb]

The Kawasaki twins are very sensitive to dirt in the gas. Clean your carb.

 

[mrslesq]

Same thing with my zero turn. I had the coils replaced and it works fine.

 

[showcrop]

Same thing with my Ferris with 23 HP Kawi. It would start out running strong then after 20. min then 15. min then 10 min. it would loose power. Checking plugs for spark one had none. Instead of replacing the motor like George recommends I got a new coil. That solved the problem. Five years ago.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Showcrop,

Where did I recommend replacing the motor?
Instead of replacing the motor like George recommends I got a
new coil.

I said buy a blown motor to get many cheap used parts.

Instead of paying big bucks for a carb and coils, I put a want
ad on craigslist for a blown Kohler engine. A guy had one off a
cub ztr that had less than 400 hrs. I got it cheap. Removed
starter, carb, voltage regulator, charging coils and ignition
coils then sold it for what I paid for it.


So where in my post did I recommend replacing the MOTOR???