23 HP Kawasaki problem

showcrop

Well-known Member
For awhile now the 23 HP Kawi on my Ferris mower has been giving me starting problems. I have found that it floods easily and that ether was of no help. More recently I have determined that when choked it will quickly go to too much gas very quickly with out firing at all. It will start best if I quickly close and then open the choke while cranking, and crank for just 3-4 seconds then release the key switch. After doing this 2-3 times it usually starts and runs. If I have the choke closed for more than one second I will then smell gas at the exhaust. It has around 2,000 hours. I have recently replaced the stator because the battery was not charging. It charges well now.
 
If it's fuel injection,I don't have any fuel advice. Since you mentioned past
battery/charging issues,I'd see if ignition is recieving 12+ volts while
starter is engaged. I'm thinking along the lines of poor connections,weak
battery or something causing voltage drop between battery and ignition. If
there is any voltage drop at all it will be compounded when starter is
engaged,thereby haveing too little volts available for good starts.
As a quick and dirty test,check battery for 12.7 or better,use jumper from
battery to ignition system then try to start.
 
(quoted from post at 04:45:48 07/20/22) If it's fuel injection,I don't have any fuel advice. Since you mentioned past
battery/charging issues,I'd see if ignition is recieving 12+ volts while
starter is engaged. I'm thinking along the lines of poor connections,weak
battery or something causing voltage drop between battery and ignition. If
there is any voltage drop at all it will be compounded when starter is
engaged,thereby haveing too little volts available for good starts.
As a quick and dirty test,check battery for 12.7 or better,use jumper from
battery to ignition system then try to start.


It is not fuel injected. The starter is another issue which I intend to address next winter. It draws much too much when hot, but when cold it spins very fast. I haven't checked voltage drop when cold. I will do that. Thanks!!
 
Check your oil for a gas smell. Mine was leaking
slowly into the oil causing no start problems. I now
have to shut the gas line valve off and let it run till
the gas in the line is used up. Seems to have solved
the problem.
 
Did you have the flywheel off to change the stator? If so how did the
flywheel key look. Was it partly sheered? Those engines are notorious
for having the ignition coils go bad. I would replace them if you
haven't already as they will go bad eventually. As said previously, run
a can of Seafoam thru it.
Dave.
 
My 17 hp Kawasaki will easily flood.
So I start cranking engine before applying
choke.
Then apply choke for one or 2 cranks.
Remove choke. Starts fine.
 
I have had two mowers with the 23 hp Kawasaki engines. I have also had the problem you describe. I had to pull
the carb each time and clean them. I did not buy kits for them just carefully disassembled and cleaned really
well. Both started and ran well after cleaning. Mine also had engine surges while operating. Both mowers had over 1500 hrs of use.
 
Had a 23 hp Kawasaki, I always shut the gas off if it was going to sit for a while, usually started on the 2nd spin, even after sitting all winter.
 
(quoted from post at 07:44:58 07/20/22) Had a 23 hp Kawasaki, I always shut the gas off if it was going to sit for a while, usually started on the 2nd spin, even after sitting all winter.

I don't think that it has a shutoff except for the selector between the two tanks. It has an electric fuel pump.
 
(quoted from post at 05:14:29 07/20/22) Did you have the flywheel off to change the stator? If so how did the
flywheel key look. Was it partly sheered? Those engines are notorious
for having the ignition coils go bad. I would replace them if you
haven't already as they will go bad eventually. As said previously, run
a can of Seafoam thru it.
Dave.


The key was good and I did replace a coil 5-6 years ago. It would run well at first after stating but lose spark on the one after 15-20 minutes.
 
If the contamination is not too extreme the Seafoam can often draw it through the carburetor when you stuff enough of it down the carburetor.

Mixing it in the gas or pouring it in the oil doesn't really do much. You need to spray as much into the carburetor as you can without killing the engine. There are probably other products that do the same thing with the same technique. One of them being Berryman's B12 Chemtool for sure.
 
X3 on the seafoam, has fixed some bugs for me too. I use it or Berryman 12 in all my gas equipment, works well as a stabilizer too.
 
If it floods easily it either has a cut o-ring in the carburetor or else the needle valve doesn't completey seal off the fuel when it
closes.

Lots of the later Kawasaki engines start best if you get them spinning and then quickly pull the choke out and push it right back in. Most
want a little choke at all temperatures.
 

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