Kohler Solid State Ignition

[Bill Copeland]

I have a Kohler model K321s Style 60275d . The spark is very weak. I have done all the tests listed in the manual and set the trigger .005 The coil resistance is ok. I have cleaned every part where a ground is required. I hope to get this Power King running by the next snowfall.Do you know how aggravating it is to pay somebody to do something you can do yourself? Anybody have a cure?

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've worked on a couple of these many many years ago, on a Gravely, and we converted them to using points and a battery ignition coil. The solid state parts were way to expensive.

You have to make sure the block has the place for the points on the side of it. If it doesn't, this won't work. You'll need to get the points, condenser, and the plunger rod that activates them. Also a 12 volt coil from Kohler or suitable aftermarket. You'll also need to change the keyswitch on your tractor, or use a separate toggle switch to turn the engine on and off. If you have the Kohler service manual, there is a diagram in there how to wire the battery coil to work. Basically, positive comes from your battery and switch to the + side of coil. the wire from the - terminal of the coil goes to the points and condensor. Then set the points for 0.020. Once running you can use a timing light to set the point gap precisely for proper timing.

 

[Bob]

Do you have the "kill wire totally disconnected from the engine/

 

[Anonymous-0]

O.K. I'm somewhat Experienced,on this..(by Necessity) As I have had one in the past that Had an Ocassional SKIP in the Ignition Firing, We done ,As You said... Everything, Thought it was the Carb, But ended up Replacing the COIL and all;s Fine..

 

[buickanddeere]

Flywheel/coil gap is important but so is timing. The pole of the magnet vs. position/timing of the coil will make or break either a points of electronic system.

 

[JT]

Bill,
You might want to look and see if the there is a place on the block, beneath and to the left a little of the carb, to put points. that solid state coil 236826S sells for 116.55 and the trigger #A237339s sells for 142.32.
You can buy points, condensor, coil, point plunger, point cover, gasket and toggle switch for about 60.00. One thing to check, make sure it is the engine. That is a ground to kill engine, and if there is a short in the kill wire, it will not work. Unhook the kill wire and check your spark. Did you replace the plug yet???
If you do decide to go to point igntion, buy OEM Kohler parts, aftermarket small engine igntion parts are normally very poor quality and do no last real long.
Jim

 

[Bob]

Buick,

The Kohler stator/magnets provide AC, which is rectified to provide DC to charge a capacitor for the CD ignition.

There is a test, outlined in the service manual, to verify the stator is providing enough AC voltage to charge the capacitor for the CD ignition.

NO provision is provided to set the timing at the stator. (In other words, the stator/magnet position is NOT critical to the operation of the CD ignition.)

The trigger is on the OUTSIDE of the flywheel, and there's NO provision for timing adjustment there, either, just an air gap adjustment.

 

[El Toro]

Have you checked the magnets for magnetism? Hal

 

[buickanddeere]

Sorry. Different setup than my old Tecumseh.
Airgap adjustment could tweak the timing a degree or two.
Don't some engines use an stepped shaped trigger piece? It retards the timing for startup and advances the timing for running.
If it's an old CD system. It's quite possible the capacitor is dried out. It won't fully charge and will bleed what charge it has away fast.

 

[Bob]

These are a simple system, with no "step" for advance.

The capacitor is in the coil.

 

[buickanddeere]

Sounds like it's time to practice one's best overhand with the coil/capacitor assembly.
http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/ignition.htm

This dude has some simple and reliable electronic conversions for small engines.