Leveling/Grading with a Back Blade

[Inno]

I have an old heavy 7' Ford back blade on the back of my 202 Massey Ferguson. I recently rebuilt the entire 3 pt hitch system including pump and all internals for the lift and adjusted it properly. I was trying to level out some new gravel on the driveway and for the life of me I can't seem to get it all level without ups and downs. I tried numerous different settings for the draft control and blade position but every time the front wheels dipped into a low spot the blade would momentarily pop off the ground and create a high spot. And of course as I graded more the problem got progressively worse.
Now I figure the draft control should be able to react quick enough if set properly so that the blade is pretty much always in the right position but for some reason this doesn't seem to be happening.

So how do you guys do it? How do you set things up, what speed do you run at etc.?

 

[Nebraska Cowman]

It's the nature of a back blade to make dips. That's
why grader blades are center mounted. Go slow and
keep your hand on the lever. Forget the draft
control. You will have to control the blade
yourself.

 

[maxwell99]

many people bolt on a rear gauge wheel attachment to the blade. Or even built one for each side of the blade, this will keep the blade at the same depth all the time.


the lift system on my old TO-35 Fergy will hold the implement in the exact same level, but as the front tires go up and over a high spot the tool will dig into the ground.

i use the grader blade in backward positon most of the time grading, also use my rock rake and the box blade. Each tool has advantages and disadvantages.

must buy more tools: but the trail wheel attached to the rear of the grader blade will work and your driveway will be easier to level.

 

[Wile E]

What I do is spread the gravel out then go reverse with the blade. Doing it this way will fill in the low spots and take down the high spots. I am assuming that you have a standard curved grader blade, and that you are spreading the small gravel not the big crushed concrete or 1x3 limestone.

 

[thurlow]

Surely you've seen a "maintainer"/road grader in operation.......either on a graveled county road or on a construction project. If not, go to google images, type in "road grader" and see how the blade is set. Of course with a rear-mounted blade, you're not gonna do as good, but the principle is the same.

 

[Cliff Nelson]

Drive backwards so the tractor is on the already leveled gravel. Once I get the grade close I turn the blade around and use the back as it is not as aggressive but need a fairly heavy blade to do anything this way. Also, forget about the draft control as it will not do what you are wanting it to do. The biggest thing is it takes practice to get the hang of it.

 

[Inno]

Thanks for the replies. I was coming to the conclusion that a rear mounted blade would simply be that way. I was moving new loose material so I wasn't trying to re-grade the packed stuff on the driveway, simply fill in ruts and make things smooth.
I guess I will have to practice some more and maybe try using my landscape rake or flip the blade around. Gauge wheels also sound like a very good idea. I have some work do to to my back blade anyway so I think I can devise some sort of wheel attachment while I'm at it.

 

[old]

A back blade does a poor job of that because when the front tires go down the blade goes up and when the front tires go up on a bump the blade goes down so you get a ripple effect. Mid mount blade or a heavy iron beam pulled behind will do by far a better job then a back blade ever will BTDT and for many years I used a heavy I-Beam on a chain to level off my drive way but I now have my A/CV W Speed patrol to do the job and it does very well

 

[Cienna]

Here's what you need-------Does the job of a mid-mount blade on a tractor.

 

[GordoSD]

Set the blade at an angle off perpendicular to the tractor centerline, to push the gravel to the left, away from driveway edge. Then using the adjustable arm of the three point adjust the blade so the the left is higher than the right. Go down one side and come back on the other. work your way in from the outer edge.
This will give you a little crown to the DW and remove those pothole you made.

 

[Inno]

(quoted from post at 13:35:00 06/24/12) Here's what you need-------Does the job of a mid-mount blade on a tractor.

Wow, that looks great although I imagine it's a bit spendy!

I think I'll work on gauge wheels.

 

[BushogPapa]

With a Back Blade, move the most in the "Forward direction and Rearward, to screet it out.

I seldom angle the blade, just "Level" as needed for the job at hand.

Ron..

 

[maxwell99]

http://www.hoh-group.com/car_Grader-Blade-Ferguson_353_20_index.php

Inno,
do not know if this site will open for you,
but it shows an old Ferguson blade with the connection sticking out back to attach the trailing wheel.

the trailing wheel attached to the blade frame using the same attachment system as they used to attach the third disc plow to a std Ferguson double disc plow. (sometimes called a bullet plow)

worked great, if you had all those parts.

this system allow you to slip on the trail wheel when need, take it off when not needed or flip it over and put the wheel in the up position,

no problem, made level grading much easier, before they had box blades, rock rakes, etc:

 

[Inno]

In searching the web I found something similar, can't find the link now. Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to build one similar. I'm guessing the farther out back the wheel is the more "grader like" it would become. When I get around to it I'm going to get a wheel and play around with it. There's got to be a fairly simple solution. I have some nice heavy round stock (old satellite dish poles) and a welder.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You have to work it as you go, you can't just set it at one position. You want to go slow.

 

[Inno]

That's pressuming I know what "level" looks like!

 

[Cienna]

INNO-----I have the tail wheel from the MHF 3pt back blade I bought. If you're interested in seeing what the wheel/mounting look like, I could send you some pictures. But you need to send me your email address.

 

[Inno]

E-mail is open, just click on the "email" tab

 

[Cienna]

Your post says "no email"----Can't reach you. My email IS open----Shoot me one.

 

[OH - 961]

Is the machine in the picture a home brew rig or factory?
I'm not sure how it works - it looks like you have to pivot the blade 90 degrees to use it?
Does the square thing on the rear have a function or is it just extra weight?

Myron

 

[Inno]

(quoted from post at 15:45:58 06/26/12) Your post says "no email"----Can't reach you. My email IS open----Shoot me one.

Huh, strange. When I look at my posts it shows my email tab but there isn't one on your posts.
it's inno73@hotmail

 

[Cienna]

Myron---It's a "home brew". Started with a MHF back blade. The blade in the picture is positioned for transporting purposes. Has seven stops both front and back. Will swivel 360 deg. Hydraulics are for the tilt of the blade, so you can easily put a crown on a road. Used it on .6 mile Association road till asphalt was put on to get rid of the dust. Have no use for it now. The assy on the back is simply weight. Open for any buyers---

 

[OH - 961]

That is an excellent engineering and fabrication job!

I saw the tilt cylinder - looks like it would work pretty well.

Do you hitch this up to a three-point drawbar and control the height/depth of cut with the hitch, or is there some other method I am missing?

Myron

 

[Cienna]

Myron---The grader has a ball hitch. The 3pt has a drawbar with a receiver hitch, holding the 2" ball. Yes, the depth is accomplished by the 3pt hydraulic control. Tilt Control==Rather than buy the "power beyond" valves, I tapped into the tilt of the FEL, using a double valve distribution. [Don't know the terminology] This enables you to tilt the blade either way with the FEL joy stick. Yes, it works slick. Want to buy mine?---Have no use for it now----