Load Control Mess

I wanted to replace the load control seals on my John Deere 2020 because they leaked when an implement was attached to the three point hitch. I have read all of the posts on this site concerning the task and I own a IT shop manual as well as a John Deere service manual for my tractor. When I got started on the project I quickly noticed that the load control bushings that I have do not appear to be like the ones referenced in the shop manuals as I can't seem to be able to get the seals out to replace them. I looked on the Boling Machine Shop web site but I still can't determine if that is what I have or not. I know that the picture is poor but I am hopeful that someone can help identify what bushings I have.
Tractor001.jpg


On the Boling Machine web site they claim that their washers can be renewed, can someone explain to me how they do this with out driving the entire bushing out? I have beat and pull and pryed on mine and I can't get anything to move at all, not even budge. Would it be advisable to put heat on the transmission housing to try to get the bushing to loosen up? I assume that mine are Boling Machine Shop bushings as they are stuck in there so tight, I fear that I have damaged the bushings now beating on them.

Also I assume that my load control shaft has too much wear to be reused, but could someone comment as the groves appear to be very light.

Tractor012.jpg


Also can anyone comment on working with the John Deere snap rings that go on the ends of the load control shaft? I have ruined several of the now as I can seem to get them to slip on the shaft.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
That shaft looks like I'd replace it and those bushings ? seem like they should stay put and you just pry the old seal ring up and out and warm a new seal in hot water and colapse one side and push them in and roll them down into the groove with a smooth object.
 
I usually change out the shaft,bushings and seals all at once to cover all bases. The seals are tough but can be pulled out with an O ring pick or cotter pin puller. The fastest and easiest way I have found to remove the bushings is to clean the bush and shaft of any oil,install the shaft as it would normally sit then weld the bush to the shaft ON ONE END then drive shaft and bush fom the diff housing. Now cut the shaft right next to the bush,reinstall and repeat for opposite side. It sometimes helps to chill the bushing before installing. When doing this job in the winter I put the seals in an inside pocket before leaving the shop if its a road call. Bob
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:06 11/15/08) I wanted to replace the load control seals on my John Deere 2020 because they leaked when an implement was attached to the three point hitch. I have read all of the posts on this site concerning the task and I own a IT shop manual as well as a John Deere service manual for my tractor. When I got started on the project I quickly noticed that the load control bushings that I have do not appear to be like the ones referenced in the shop manuals as I can't seem to be able to get the seals out to replace them. I looked on the Boling Machine Shop web site but I still can't determine if that is what I have or not. I know that the picture is poor but I am hopeful that someone can help identify what bushings I have.
Tractor001.jpg


On the Boling Machine web site they claim that their washers can be renewed, can someone explain to me how they do this with out driving the entire bushing out? I have beat and pull and pryed on mine and I can't get anything to move at all, not even budge. Would it be advisable to put heat on the transmission housing to try to get the bushing to loosen up? I assume that mine are Boling Machine Shop bushings as they are stuck in there so tight, I fear that I have damaged the bushings now beating on them.

Also I assume that my load control shaft has too much wear to be reused, but could someone comment as the groves appear to be very light.

Tractor012.jpg


Also can anyone comment on working with the John Deere snap rings that go on the ends of the load control shaft? I have ruined several of the now as I can seem to get them to slip on the shaft.

Thanks in advance for your help.
They look the same as the bushes on my 2750. You have to get something small but strong like a good quality screwdriver under them and carefully dig them out. You should not have to apply heat to the casing to get them out.

You may have to immerse the new seals in hot water to assist in the installation of them. Be careful that you don't lose them into the casing when removing and installing the seals
Aussie
Aussie
 
by your pic,i would say there is no replaceble bushing,check the bore for exessive out of round. New shaft and seals are your only option.If there is a replacable bushing?,[most of them have] you'll have to drive them out from the inside with the old load shaft[cut the shaft behind the tread to get a squire end] trough the oposite hole.
They can be hard to get out,you'll need a FBH for the job.The seals are difficult critters to work with,heating in water will help some but usually by the time you try to get them in they are cold and hard again.
grind a good taper on the old shaft and pass it trough the oiled new seals to seat them properly before assembly of hitch.
 
stuff a wet rag inside the bushing,take a short piece of flat stock 1/4 thick weld it to the bushing more than a tack weld but not too much put a long punch or bar stock through the rear end and drive it out from the opposite side done this a couple of times and it works like a charm. go to deere and get all new bushings and the shaft, last time i did a 2350 jd it was around 150 in parts by looking at your pics i would not think a seal alone will solve your leak hy-guard is pretty thin oil
 
also digging around the bushing will do nothing more than screw up your rear end housing,the bushings have no seal on the outside they are a press fit into the housing when putting in the new bushings just tap the in with a small brass hammer or a babbit
 
Thank you everyone for your suggestions.

Can anyone identify the type of bushing in the picture? Is this just a standard John Deere load control bushing? Thanks again for the help
 

regularguy,
JD recommended only changing bushings if they had "enough wear" to warrant changing as it eventually will increase bore diameter in diff housing. I doubt a utility tractor has as much heavy 3pt use to cause wear as a larger model tractor. The bushing in picture appears to be the JD bushing. Your load shaft appears to have enough wear to need replacement.
 
from the pics the bushing and the load control shaft look very similar to the one in my 2350 in the kiti got from deere it had bushings/seals,shaft, and new collars with roll pin keepers and wire spring type retainers to keep the roll pins in place dont be nervous it really is a simple fix, just be careful with the welder not to get any sparks/slag in the rear end and ground clamp on the peice of metal that you weld on the outside,so you dont arc through the ring and pinion or any bearings
 
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