Log Splitter opinions

I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a splitter - don't have enough spare parts to build one.I'll be splitting mostly red & white oak. I'm looking at two - one is a Husky 22 ton 4" dia cylinder with a 6.5 hp B&S engine and the other is Troy Built 27 ton 4-1/2" dia cylinder with a 5.5 Honda engine. Both have 1-3/4" shafts, the price is within $250 of each other. Anyone here have any experience with either of these?
I've had good luck with B&S, Honda's are great.
I've been leery of the Troybuilt name since they sold out but it's looking like the way to go. The Husky has a few parts that are heavier but I used to be a welder so heavying up the TB wouldn't be a problem if it's needed. Anyone got any input? Thanks!!!
 
You might want to check cycle times. If the pumps are the same gallons per minute the extra half inch (4.5") will make that one work slower, but with more force. Also, in my opinion it's better to have the wedge (attached to the ram) moving against the stationary plate rather than vice versa.
 
The engines sound small but if they get the job done...

Log splitter wish list.

1. Hydraulic loader
2. Cradle to support split log
3. 5" bore
4. 5 second cycle time (figure out the GPM based on 3&4)
5. Exhaust that exits away from the area
6. Automatic return
7. 4 -way wedge
8. Quiet running
 
With my bad back I have found I like the vertical splitters much better. I can sit on a chunk of wood and just roll the chunks into place to split.
 
More info - both are horizontal or vertical operation - I have a bad back and have had both hips replaced twice so I won't be lifting anymore than I have to.
These are both homeowner types - figure $1250 as the median price. Both are auto return, the Husky has a 14 second cycle the TB has a 16 second cycle - kinda slow but I'm retired, anyway....maybe "retarded" wanting to split wood, though....
I'm wondering about the trade off - 1 hp larger B&S engine with 5 less tons of force vs 1 hp smaller Honda engine with 5 more tons of force.
Another question for todays world - how much gas might be saved with the smaller engine?
Thanks for all the info!
 
Both of these have the wedge on the ram shaft, TB has a cast steel wedge, Husky has a 3/4" steel plate welded to spreader wings.
To save another post below, the 4 way wedge would be nice but 4 way for the Husky costs $70. I have material on hand and I can build one with if the splitter can handle it.
Thanks for all the input!
 
Hello Bud in WV.
I think the smaller honda engine with the 27 ton capacity will work harder then the briggs engine.
A bigger engine with the same settings will give you better fuel economy.
My vote is for the 6.5 H.P 22 ton setup you described. I like the wedge at the end of the platform and a flat plate on the cylinder.That is the way I built mine.
Guido.
 
Make sure the Honda engine is a real Honda, GX (160)model and not the GC model that I've heard described as generally crappy(GC). It has a belt driven overhead cam and is made just to compete with other low end engines. If the Honda is a GX model, it's probably under rated and the B&S could be over rated. I don't think you should have to be doing any welding on a new machine to beef it up. Gas used shouldn't be much different I don't think. More power is always nice but if 22 tons won't split the log, it must be a pretty heavy log. Cycle times would vary depending on how hard the logs are to split. They probably measure it going full stroke to full retract and you probably won't always have to use full stroke. You should be able to manually retract it as well to save time. Dave
 
Here's the splitter I built in 1982. I copied it off a splitter that I rented. I should've used a 6 inch I-beam instead of the 4-inch I used. It developed a little bow in the beam. I used a 10hp Tecumseh engine that came off a Sears tractor. I bought all the hydraulic components from Northern Hydraulics. I think both splitters that you're considering have 2-stage pumps. Those engines are probably governed at 3600 rpm's and will use more gas. I only ran the 10hp above a fast idle and wasn't hard on gas. Hal
8fos74l.jpg
 
To save a post, El Toro - your work looks good!
Dave - thanks for the info on the engines! I didn't know about the difference in them!
Talked to my "adopted grand daughter" last night - girl that boarded her horses with us in NC is asst mgr at a TSC now - got a new model on the way - 7 HP Honda (probable a GC engine) 4-1/2" dia 28 ton ram, 11 gpm 2 stage pump, probably 14 to 16 sec cycle for $1,550, 6" beam, Hz/Vert operation, Hiway rated tires, etc. Might have to look at it...more is better, right?
The larger engine wouldn't have to work as hard....and more power to play with, too!!!

(Echo Bear Cat has a NICE one but I don't want to morgage the house for it!)
Thanks for all the info, guys! Dave, good to hear from you again!
 
I agree Ray, but add a take-away conveyor to the list.
You could use a closed center hydro system to keep everything moving faster and smoothly. My neighbor built one like that powered with a 2hp electric motor and nothing stops it.
 
Respect for the wood splitter, don't expect the splitter to accomplish something that is going to break part of the machine. I have owned a second hand one I purchased a few years ago, I believe it is 5 hp, takes all size diameter that I want split. If some one wants to borrow the machine I would have to be borrowed too and go along and operae the machine. The pump on mine is not really fast, and in my old age I am a little slower. I do have all the parts to make one for running off the tractor 3 ph another project that is waiting. The splitter's are a great invention, even anyone who has an electric one is much improved the old method of wedge and maul. cheers, Murray
 
I have built and sold about 20 woodsplitters
since the 70s and would NEVER go with less
than a 2 inch shaft. 1-3/4 is too small and
will bend sooner or later. 2-1/2 is even better.
My current splitter has a 5 inch bore cylinder,
with a 3-1/2 shaft, a Vickers industrial pump,
and a 14 horsepower at 2400 rpm 2 cylinder
Wisconsin engine. Splitters at farm and chain
stores are built to sell for a certain price. Do
it yourself with commercial components, put
togather by a professional welding shop, and
you"ll never be sorry. I call mine the "Boar Hog".
 
Watch out for horsepower claims. Many of the companies have been sued, or are presentlty being sued for making false claims. Sears,John Deere, Briggs & Stratton, Toro, Kawasaki and Honda are being sued at present.

In regard to engines? If price is any indicator of quality - the cheapest 6.5 horse Briggs sells for $200. The cheapest Honda GX (commerical) 5.5 horse sells for $430. So, look closely as model number info on the engines when buying. The el-cheapo Honda 5.5 horse is the GC series instead of the GX.

One example of real horsepower. The Honda commercial-grade "5.5 horse" GX160 engine puts out a maximum of 4.8 horsepower at 3600 RPM. That's a bit shy of the 5.5 horsepower claim.
I don't have the Briggs specs. Best thing to do it go by engine quality and size (ccs or c.i.).
I'd want an engine that has ball bearings on both sides of the engine. It's important for HD work. Some of the Briggs do not - all the Honda GX do.

There's no work-around for cylinder-bore. The bigger the bore, the more splitting potential you're going to have. Now, if it's going to matter to you? It depends on the type of wood you split, I don't know. Also, the larger the cylinder bore, the bigger the hydraulic pump you need to keep the cycle time fast. And subsequently, that calls for more horsepower.

I've got three log splitters. One with a 3 1/2" bore cylinder, one with a 4", and one with a 4 1/2". There have been times I wish I had a 5" cylinder. Yeah, you might be able to run a higher pressure, but that has limits.

I often get involved in taking large wood from power-line right-of-ways that nobody else wants to mess with because it's so big, heavy, hard to move, etc. It's usually red oak or hard maple. If you get working with 3 foot diameter hard maple wood, down near the bottom, a 4 1/2" splitter will have trouble splitting some of it, but that's rare.

For the majority of wood, even the 3 1/2" bore works okay. But, it ticks me off when I've taken the trouble of cutting large maple and then, can't split it. Pieces like that, I've had to rip with a chainsaw instead - and that's not easy with standard chipper chain. There is special ripping chain - but I don't own any.

So, other then wanting the capability to split anything, I guess comfort and fuel comsumption are the two major factors. And, maybe portability?

I've got two horizontal splitters on wheels, and on vertical that goes on the three point hitch of any one of my tractors. I never use the horizontals anymore. The vertical is much easier on my back - and big wood can be rolled to it - at ground level. That's a big plus. The control lever is also up high, which works better for me. I've had two back surgeries, a broken neck, and I have steel pins, plates, and screws in various parts of my. I.e., I'm a little beat up.
An other plus with the three-point hitch, is it's so easy to drive the splitter on site where a big tree has been felled and cut, if necessary.

On the subject of fuel consumption - that's one down side to putting a three-point splitter on a 30 plus horsepower tractor. The engine is oversized for the job, and thusly wastes some fuel. A good 10 horse gas engine is going to be cheaper to run - than a 30 horse diesel being underworked.

That all being said - I haven't used either of my self-powered splitters in years. I love the three-point hitch splitter. It's hooked to a large PTO hydrualic pump and I can stick it on any tractor I own.

In regard to engines, you can't go by the brand name. Briggs & Stratton, Honda, et. al. all make good HD engines as well as cheap crap. All goes by the specs when purchased. Subaru, Kawasaki, and a few Chinese companies also make some very good engines when bought right. Subaru has been one of the best on the market since they first came out years ago as "Wisconsin Robins", but they are pricey.

Troy-built is made by MTD.
 
Yes, absolutely. Unfortunately, not all cast-iron bore engines are built heavy-duty all around. Briggs sells several with a cast-iron bore but only sleeve bearings on the mains.
And, I suppose, Briggs stills sells the even cheaper "cool bore" engines that are just aluminum - kind of like Chevy Vegas were once.

I was working for a Briggs dealer back in the 70s. We were the first dealer in the USA to sell Honda replacement engines for lawn/garden equipment. When those Hondas started outlasting Briggs and Tecumseh 2-1, and sometimes 3-1, Briggs had to come up with something better - thus the "IC series" with cast-iron liners in the bores. Briggs also came out with some Chinese Vanguard stuff. At that time, Tecumseh engines came in all cast-iron versions - but they did not last as long as the all-aluminum Briggs.

Now - with new stuff? You really have to read specs closely. They all have some cheap crap.
Funny thing is - there are some amazingly cheap Chinese engines that are very well built - but again - it's hard to figure what is junk and what is not.
 
Some log splitters don't have a guide for the ram to follow. Less likely to bend the ram.
Most small engines don't quit from wearing out. The wrecked engines are almost always run out of oil and grind to a clattering halt.
I'd trade 2-3 seconds of cycle time to have a 5" ram split the log rather than 4" that won't.
 
I guess one advantage to the cheaper engine is if you had to replace it. A new one would cost less or then you could upgrade it. As far as how hard the engine works, it depends on the pump capacity. The 7hp and 11gpm might work about as hard as 5.5hp and 7gpm. If the gpm and pressure of the pump was the same, then the 7 hp wouldn't have to work as hard. Your "adopted grand daughter" can maybe get you a better deal on the splitter? If the splitter is well built and has everything you want but the engine isn't the best, it will still do a lot of work if taken care of. If you're splitting would for 100's of hours, then the engine choice would be a bigger concern. I know you could build a really good splitter but it would most likely cost a lot more and take some time to build. Dave
 
That's kinda what I'm figuring - get the best I can for now and if the engine or ram pukes I can upgrade then. I've been pricing parts and it'd cost as much or more to build one since none of the stuff I have on hand would work.
The grand daughter angle might help some but it'd cost over $100 for the gas to go get it.
I'm 58 and half cripple....but I'm "retarded" so it doesn't matter. I'm not going to go into commercial wood splitting so that helps. Thanks for the input!
 
Thanks for all the input, guys!!! I've learned that if folks on this board can't come up with answers, there AIN'T any! And everybody here is happy to get involved and share knowledge and experience!
I have a good idea of what I'm looking for now - get the best/ heaviest I can afford and if a motor or ram pukes, upgrade that component. Probably be easier to sell SWMBO on that kinda upgrade, too - a little at a time! But I know what to upgrade TO, now!
As for the conveyor Jim in Ma. mentioned, I’ll bet a hay elevator could be modified to work, too.
Kinda wish I still had my old '57 AC D17 - there'd be a splitter on the TPH! I sold it for what I paid for it when we left NC - I don't even have room to turn that puppy around here.
Thanks again, Guys!
 
Someone posted a picture of their splitter setup and had a device to raise the wood hydrauically.
Hal
 
(quoted from post at 10:15:42 09/12/08) Some log splitters don't have a guide for the ram to follow. Less likely to bend the ram.
The TSC has this built into the beam.
I think this is the best feature of the TSC Huskey splitters.
I have a 10+ year old TSC 28 ton with a 8hp briggs.
The ram guide acts as a cradle making splitting quicker, easier and safer.
The only thing I altered was the exhaust. I moved it down and away from the operator.
 
I just don't hardly need to split wood any more. If I can't lift it it probably wont fit in. The door is 27"x27" and will take over 4' long.
I even have made a hoist for getting the big stuff in. If I do have a need for splitting I just pull out the axe or the sledge and wedge.
If you don't try to slit through the middle and take a slab off the sides will split much easier.
As for the wood Ash, Red Oak and White Oak don't split bad with an axe if you know what your doing Maple is tougher and if you really want a challenge Elm of most any variety will make a religous man cuss. LOL
 
If you think elm is tough, jump on some gum! Only to to split it with a "go devil" is wait till it's about 0º or less and it's frozen solid. Even worse is it's not even good fire wood - it was just available. That was 40 years ago - ain't felt a need for any gum wood since!
 
Here's a surprise. I brought a Harbor F. 24 ton splitter with a 8hp Briggs about 4 years ago. Never had a minute of trouble. It splits my yearly home heating wood supply and the neighbors when his three point unit dies. Splits anything I throw at it. Good machine much heavier metal than the Big Box units and cheaper. Only paid $750. They have I believe the same machine with a Subureu engine for a little more.
 
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