Looking for a better tractor to use on rolling land

[Schneider]

I have a Case 830 that is in need of clutches and head work. I can do all the work myself but it will still be a few grand by the time I am finished.

This tractor is really tall and our new place has steep rollling hills that are uncomfortable even on an 8n so I am considering replacing the Case with something that sits lower to the ground.

Whatever I get needs to be able to run a small square baler uphill and have enough weight to safely go down the hills with a load of hay. And a loader.

Do you have any recommendations in the 50hp range? I have been looking at new John Deere 5055's and on older 2240.

 

[scott mcintosh]

Your case is going to be alot more tractor then what you are thinking about.If you are going to have loader and pull baler up and down hills you need a machine with wide front and more weight,good tires with fluid and wheel weights a must.Scott

 

[Part Time Pete]

I'd say a Ford 5000 would be a good pick. Small enough to be handy and stable, but big enough to keep you out of trouble
Pete

 

[2510Paul]

I agree with Scott plus widen out the tractor as much as practical. If you run row crops you may want to do 38" rows or use duals when doing row crop work. You may not feel you need the HP but you need weight and stability to anchor loads on those hills. Oh, and you need the HP to pull those loads up wet slippery hills.

Having grown up on bad hills in the Kettle Moraine in Wisconsin and now helping farmers on the ridges and coulees of Western Wisconsin I feel you are going in the wrong direction. Set up correctly that Case will be your savior but if you really want something different you should be looking at a JD 4020, JD 4230, IH 1066, Case 1030, Case 1070, MF 1100 (w/o mp because I think it coasts when engaged)etc. I would stay away from a tractor that "coasts" when a torque amplifier is engaged. Also, I am a strong believer in a ROPS like on the JD's.

For example, my friend had only one tractor, a JD 1520. He took a lot of scary rides with his baler and wagon behind. He got a JD 4230, he would never give up that tractor.

Second example, when I was a teen my Dad bought a second farm. He bought a 190 XT, before that our big tractor was a 54 HP Massey Harris 444 Standard. Comparatively, that 190 XT (fluid and weighted) was a shear joy to drive up, down and sideways on those hills with loads.

Maybe not the answer you expected.

Good Luck.

Paul

 

[Adirondack case guy]

I have to agree with others. You need the size and weight of the 830 to operate the equipment you mentioned. The center of gravity on the 830 isn't much higher than a tractor where you sit between the rear tires. On the 830 you just set in a higher and better position. As mentioned liquid balast in rears plus the built in weight of the 830 adds stability and control on hills.
Scroll down to the Case forum. You will find 2 excellent parts suppliers who can supply you with quality parts at very reasonable prices. Fix up the Case and you will know what you have, rather than perhaps ending up with a headache
Loren

 

[Schneider]

This is a gas case o matic, late model. I bought it with a loader and new tires for 3500. She's worn but has over 140 compression an all 4. Right now I have a bad exhaust valve, damaged front axle(shouldn't be adjusted out) dragging clutches, worn out linkage, wiring is a mess and a whole lot of little things. Oh, and the torque converter seems weak.

Just had the rear tires loaded, bucket cylinder rebuilt, replaced the alternator and all fluids, new ignition and made all the external adjustment i could.

Ill take a look at the parts suppliers you mentioned. I had found a couple on the internet. I suppose if I can keep the parts cost under 3 grand it wouldn't be too much invested.

Below is a link showing the tractor in action.

https://www.facebook.com/SCHNEIDERFAMILYFARM/videos/567225580068974/

 

[Schneider]

Here is the tractor

 

[Glenn F.]

Pretty hard to improve on that.

Glenn F.

 

[Adirondack case guy]

Is the hyd clutch pack dragging, or are you trying to shift it into gear above idle speed. You don't pull your auto trans shifting lever of your PU into gear with your foot on the throttle do you. A weak converter can be as simple as raising the pressure a bit which is quite simple to do once you have established that it is indeed low. (pressure test is in order) Wireing is quite easy to fix.
I see you found the Case forum. Easier to help you there.
Loren

 

[Larry EC-OH]

I can't add much more to what everyone else has said.

One thing that you can do for your piece of mind is to add a ROPS (roll over protection system) to the tractor.

If you do, the seat belt is mandatory, not a suggestion.

Good luck,

Larry

 

[2510Paul]

There you go, widen that baby out, put fluid in the tires and/or weights. Did Case make a ROPS for it?

I do have an additional thought. In my own opinion that loader transfers weight to the front that is on a pivot. Hence it makes the tractor less stable. You want the rear tires nailed to the ground. I would either take the loader (just arms and bucket, not sub-frame) off when on hills or get a different loader tractor.

Paul.

 

[Schneider]

I slow it down to 600 rpm to shift. I have to take it out of low, shift into gear and jamb it back into low. Unless i am rolling slightly in the direction I want to shift then it drops right in. The converter pressure is good above 1000 rpm. Book says it should only drop 20 psi at idle but it drops by 60 or so. Adjustment at the spool valve didn't help the drop off. Today I had it in 2 High and when I got to the hill by the barn it came to a stop, full throttle didn't help. I idled down and engaged direct drive and it took off up the hill. From that I figured the torque converter was a getting a little weak.

 

[Bill VA]

I have a 2014 year Deere 5055d - 2 wheel drive I bought new. My brother has a 2015 Deere 5045e - 2 wheel drive with loader he bought new.

I use my JD for haying, small squares with a wagon in tow. IMHO, it is to light for wagons going down hill and would need weights or a loader
up front as they are very light in the front - for going up hill.

Even my IH Farmall 756, which weighs in probably around 9,000 lbs with weights and fluids, I'm not going to run it up and down hills with the
baler and wagon. I've been on a wagon full of hay that pushed a tractor down a moderate hill in my younger days. Everything stopped safely,
but it could have been deadly.

What I will do is pull a baler by itself up and down, with the 756, probably not the 5055d - no wagon in tow. We are not going to pull fully loaded
wagons down hills either. Maybe I'm over cautious, but for us, there are some things we don't want to learn by mistake.

One thing we will do with baler and wagon in tow is work ourselves around the side of a moderate slope to the top, very gradually making our
way up. We plan on shelters at the top of these hills/fields so we don't have to bring the hay down.

YMMV

Good luck,
Bill

 

[VicS]

Every once in a while, one needs to upgrade. Back in 83 I had a gas 4010 I'd. Get home from work about 6:00 pm. Want to no-till for a few hrs.
Didn't have time for any issues. But seemed tractor didn't know that. Traded it for a new 6060AC Cab and air. Smaller by 25 hp but the cab
more than made up for it. Didn't need a 4010 to pull a 6 row planter.or a 10ft. No-till drill. We are not super steep here. But a 60hp tractor is big
enough to bale and move 4x5 bales or sq bales. 4 wheel drive is a game changer, going down or up hills or thru wet draws. I am not a fan of
5000 series jd. Check where they are made. Kubotas are better in 50 to 80 hp. Friends tractor 55?? . PTO clutch went out pulling a 10" auger.
Dealer said clutches are not warranted. Warned him new clutch would not be any better. Best not run auger with it. Another friends 5??? Jd .
Had sand in the housings from the factory. JD finally gave him a $10,000 up grade to a 60?? Plus $10000 of his money to trade. Think it is
made in. Germany. 5 years ago my son upgraded the 6060 with a M126 kubota. Nothing lasts forever!

 

[Traditional Farmer]

I have an Oliver 1365 4WD (55HP) it goes over hills and my small mountain like a groundhog.

 

[Schneider]

I looked in the Case forum and didn't see the parts suppliers. Where are their ad's?

 

[Keith Molden]

We run 255 Masseys, one has 28" rears and the other has 38" rears. We rake with a narrow front A.C. WD and a narrow front 960 Ford. Our land is mostly reclaimed strip mine land that is pretty steep in places. We both square and round bale with both of them with no problems. I was raised on these hills and do have a great respect for them. We do have ballast in the rear wheels but only have weight on the 255 with 28" rears. It really doesn't make any difference what tractor you get, if you're afraid to be on the hill---then don't go on it with any tractor. Just my thoughts, Keith.

 

[Adirondack case guy]

The moderators don't allow adds on here. Our Case suppliers are members, so if you ask for parts they or someone else will give you the contact info.
Loren

 

[Paul from MN]

I looked at your facebook page. Nice looking place!

I see rolling hills, but nothing I'd be at all concerned about.

 

[sotxbill]

Ford made the 4110.. 1965 to 1975.. which is a lcg or low center of gravity tractor.. 52 pto hp, 64 engine hp.. design for mowing the sides of expressway overpasses. And there were various newer versions of this derivative out there. It was basically a ford 4000 with a ford 3000 front end, and lower tires, shorter spindles, and even dual back tires for maximum grip on hillsides. If you need a tractor designed from the ground up for hillsides and can live with 64hp.. this is it.

 

[buzz saw]

(quoted from post at 16:02:39 01/01/17) I have to agree with others. You need the size and weight of the 830 to operate the equipment you mentioned. The center of gravity on the 830 isn't much higher than a tractor where you sit between the rear tires. On the 830 you just set in a higher and better position. As mentioned liquid balast in rears plus the built in weight of the 830 adds stability and control on hills.

Plus one on what ADK says. We farmed the hills of northeast KY with a 770 Case that would compare pretty well with your 830. Loaded tires like you, your probably around 10,000 pounds plus. That weight makes things pretty stable, I'd take that any day over something smaller that's gonna get pushed around. Not to mention once you make the repairs you know what you have.