Low Budget Puller

[PennySaver]

Looking to get into antique pulling and I have a couple options. Friend of mine directed me to this site a couple weeks ago, said it was the place to get some answers. I am looking to build a competitive puller, but I have a "tight" budget. I am a Farmall guy and I have access to an H, Super C, and a Case SC. I know the case is the odd man out. Nevertheless, what is a good one to pick and start with? Cut tire or Non-Cut? Also need ideas for weight brackets and an adjustable hitch. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Ken 46]

Good Afternoon - This is my opinion only!!!
Start with a decent running tractor - whatever your choice. Figure out the weighting for the stock class and work from there.
There are a lot of simple things that help performance and don't cost an arm and a leg.
I got lucky with my first tractor - an Oliver 77 all painted and looks and runs good.
I have messed with carb, governor,and ignition. Even when I get beat I feel good about this tractor.
I see a lot of guys with a stock tractor and no paint job - And they are just as proud as I am because they are pulling and having fun.
I pull against a fellow that has an F12? with cat pistons and a cam job - Nice fellow - sometimes he wins and sometimes I win.
I have less money in mine and can stay with him. Am I good??? or lucky??? Mostly lucky - my adrenaline starts to run when I start the tractor - having fun is what its all about.

ENJOY YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[MM ZAck]

Take a good look at the Farmall H, especially the serial number. If it's got a code for a low low first gear (you can post the serial number and we'll look it up for you), then that's the tractor you should pull since you won't have modify anything to be competitive. With it's low gearing, you will never run out of power and can focus on your hitch and weight balance. An H is light enough that you can easily pull it in a 4000, 4500 or 5000lb class with the low low 1st gear and do fairly well. With the standard first gear, you will have to do some engine mods to have enough power.

Trust me, from many years of experience, tractor pulling is no fun if you don't have enough power.

The Super C might work, depending on your weight classes, but I know it'll take a little bit of work to make it balance well at 3000lbs. If you can find a running C153 combine motor and bolt it in, it would be very competitive.

Not sure about the SC case. Nobody in my area pulls one. They are about 400lbs heavier than the Farmall H though, have about the same engine displacement. The H has a 1/4" longer stroke from the factory than the SC and the H is rated at higher factor hp. I'd probably take the H over the SC.

As for a hitch, some pull off the stock "loop" Farmall H drawbar. I prefer to build my own hitches from scratch, that way they are lighter and adjustable. Weight brackets can be fabbed out of mild steel and bolted to the tractors. You'll want a front weight bracket, a middle bracket on both sides, and a bracket(s) near the rear. This will allow you to shift around weights to compensate for hitch settings (per rules) and track conditions.

Look up local rules for allowed tire modifications. If you pick one of the mentioned tractors, make sure the tires match. I've always run old, worn, hard tires and they hook up really well. Some clubs allow cut tires these days since old worn tires are getting harder to find. Again, check your local rules.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Zack

 

[Vic S]

I went to a big pull or three and took pictures of at least 50 hitches and wheelie bars. plus Read the rules of USAP and NATPA, or the club you are going to pull with. Then do the best you can. I lean toward the C and a Combine motor probable cheapest way to start. Don't scrimp on tires look what wins. Farmstock in midwest allowes top cut. good for 20ft.

 

[[email protected]]

Another option if pulling an AC WC. All you really need is to find a E Gleaner engine and bolt it in, and you can also put an overbore kit with flat top pistons in it pretty reasonable. In my area, a syled or unstyled WC goes for around 300 to 500 dollars running and the Gleaner engine cost about 500 to 1000 dollars.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have a super c with the combine motor already in it.It will need finished up.I would make a deal if someone wants it.

 

[kendak]

low budget & puller don't go together...no such thing....like "Farm Stock" right !!!

 

[LCB]

I have a M Int at about 85hp turn key ready St Louis area.618 664 1732

 

[LCB]

I have a M Int at about 85hp turn key ready St Louis area.618 664 1732

 

[Dblair]

you said it all

 

[Johndeerewc]

There is a weight bracket for your H in the Classified ads. $ 50.00

 

[Johndeerewc]

There is also one in the Photo Ads Under Parts.

 

[Anonymous-0]

save youre pennies . easiest way to do that is not to leave the house. tractorpulling costs even the spectator

 

[james rumph]

I'm seeing more and more people switch over to E-85 for fuel.

Cheap power with some small changes , timing , carb jetting .

Do a posting for Chad on this topic , he has had great results with it .

 

[mEl]

(quoted from post at 12:55:25 02/04/10) Looking to get into antique pulling and I have a couple options. Friend of mine directed me to this site a couple weeks ago, said it was the place to get some answers. I am looking to build a competitive puller, but I have a "tight" budget. I am a Farmall guy and I have access to an H, Super C, and a Case SC. I know the case is the odd man out. Nevertheless, what is a good one to pick and start with? Cut tire or Non-Cut? Also need ideas for weight brackets and an adjustable hitch. Any help would be appreciated.

As an old Case puller I can tell you that an SC is low on power in stock form. They are relatively short stroke and have a fairly fast low gear, not a good combination. The engine has LOTS of room in the bottom end for increasing the stroke. In Case a good working DC with pop up M&W style pistons is hard to beat, my cousin has one which I have prepared for him and normally he is right at or near the top of the class. The DC has 285 CID with those pistons compared to the SC's in the 160 range.