Low Dollar Engine Code Readers

[Anonymous-0]

Many stores sell low dollar (less than $50) engine code readers. I have never done any code reading, but have often had to have it done for me. I understand a person can simply use a metal clip to connect the terminals of the car's system and then count the check engine flashes...determine the codes....

Are these low dollar code readers very user friendly? Do they tell you what the codes are and have suggested repair procedures?

What do the high dollar readers have over the cheapies?

Thank you,
Glenn F.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you desire to go that route then try to buy a name brand like Actron. They give the code(s) but you must have your own look up table to determint the meaning of the throw code. i keep one in my glove box and it helped me detect a faulty coil on cylinder number 4 when I was 500 miles from home.
Actron CP9125 Pocket Scanner

 

[Anonymous-0]

Buy a used Cadillac its built in.

 

[bradk]

Only thing good about a Caddy.

 

[Mike M]

You will NEED it alot on a Caddy ! Parts are way higher for them too.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Be careful of some of the cheaper ones like those sold by Harbor Freight. I bought one form them and the first time I needed it in didn"t work. When I called and told HF, they said it was out of it"s 90 day warrantee. Never mind that I had never even used it up to that point!

You certany can use the "jumper wire and count the flashes" method but a code reader is simpler, easier to use, and doen"t require you to make sure you jump the right pins and don"t short anything out.

I now have an Autoxray Code Scout(~$100) and it works very well, provides the code and the name of the code and allows you to reset the "service engine" light.

 

[KEB1]

The "jumper wire/count flashes" method only works on OBD-I cars, prior to 1996. There were a couple years in that era where some cars (like my Chevy S-10) had sort of an OBD-1.5 interface that OBD-II readers can't read and that won't dump codes by flashing either. Royal pain in the rear.

All 1996 & later cars are OBD-II. Be aware also that the basic code readers only read the standard OBD-II codes, they won't read any of the manufacturer unique ones. For most cars that's not a problem, but for things like my F-350 diesel it means I can't read most of the trouble codes.

Keith

 

[RayP(MI)]

I have one I picked up from a vendor on Ebay, approx $50. Has saved me a lot of worry. Although the cheapies will only read out the codes, and you have to look them up in a book, that can save you a lot of concern. You can at least determine the cause of your "CHECK/SERVICE engine" light, and decide whether it is safe to drive it for a few days, or to call the wrecker to have it towed in. Mine, (and probably most others) allows me to clear all the stored codes, and that allows you to start with a clear computer. What they don't do is to allow you to talk to the computer, control various functions, track sensors in real time, establish conditions when the error code was thrown, etc. Those are the several thousand $ variety. But I can't afford one of those, and mine has saved me much worry, by telling me what the codes are. Repair proceedures would have to come from a repair manual. Used to be that you could buy those from the manufacturer, in book form. Now, they are typically available by subscription from a vendor on the internet. Cost mucho $, and are updated frequently. What's really sad is that when they update, the old ones become unusable, so you have keep up the subscription. A option that only makes sense if you're a service facility. I value my reader, and would replace it immediately if it failed, was lost or stolen.

 

[dave guest]

Don't say Caddy so loud. Mine is 91 has 178Kmiles. Best ever had. Chev 350 engine they say. Used to get 18 or better going to work and back 75 miles a day. Probably less now only short trips. Runs like a tiger. RWD Brougham. Bought used 12 years ago. Never seen code reader. Worst thing was 3 trans seals after I used BigLots trans fluid.

 

[dave guest]

Don't say Caddy so loud. Mine is 91 has 178Kmiles. Best ever had. Chev 350 engine they say. Used to get 18 or better going to work and back 75 miles a day. Probably less now only short trips. Runs like a tiger. RWD Brougham. Bought used 12 years ago. Never seen code reader. Worst thing was 3 trans seals after I used BigLots trans fluid.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I paid about $100 for mine. It will let me read codes and reset the light. Paid for itself the first time a gas cap froze open in the winter and it let me reset the light myself, without a trip to the dealer.

 

[Goose]

I have an OBDII I bought from Walmart for $68. It's always done everything I've wanted it to.

I also have an OBDI code checker I bought somewhere years ago. The problem with it is it's limited in what it tells you. Right now, my '92 Olds with OBDI has the SES light come on when the engine is cold and goes off when the engine warms up. It runs fine, cold or warm. I get a code 43 for low/erratic ignition voltage. But that's as far as it goes. I'm hoping it turns out to be the ignition module, 'cause that's still under a Carquest warranty.

 

[RobMD]

i just run to advance auto and get it done for free. However, that doesn't always work when you can't really take the car there because it runs like schitt. (or doesn't even start)

 

[T_Bone]

Hi Glenn,

The cheap code readers only read the generic OBD-II codes that's common to every vehicle mfg.

However, they will not read dedicated OBD-II codes that belong to each mfg. This really can be seen easy on diesel engines of the different mfg's. To read thease additional OBD-II codes then you need a scanner that is written for that pictular mfg's engine/vehicle. That's why you see scanners that cost $500 and up.

To reset "any" mfg OBD-II codes, all one has to do is disconnect the battery for 1/2hr, I like over night. This resets the puter to the original system defaults. I use this method on every oil change to keep my diesel producing the best fuel mileage.

Auto puters are just like any other puter system, (MS must have designed the systems as they do crash too), they need reset to keep preforming at there top operating capability.

T_Bone

 

[lucas boy]

getting the codes is one thing, knowing what to fix is another. i have an otc mindreader (300.00) and it gives explanation of codes and real time sensor values and such ,wiggle test on connections,cyl balance test .. but you have to know what the values should be . one approach is to write them down when everything is running right.. lucas

 

[Mike M]

That may have the olds 307 engine. Is the 10 th didgit of your VIN a letter Y ?
When I get back to work on Mon. I'll have to check what all was used in 1991.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Bought a Harbor Freight reader about 3 or 4 years ago. It has paid for itself many times over with it being used on my three vehicles and my 3 sons autos/trucks. I have a Dodge V8 that will trip the check engine light if the wife doesn't put the gas cap on tight enough. It will reset the computer in short order. I'm sure it has it's limitations, but it was well worth the $40.00 spent on it, especially with the cost of taking it to a knowledgeable mechanic these days.

 

[Eddie in MI]

I have this one and it works just as well as any of the big name brands (as far as I can tell):

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94217

 

[bradk]

Rear drive Broughams either 305 or 350, both Chev.

 

[Brian Jasper co. Ia]

The big difference in scan tools is not only being able to read codes, but also being able to communicate with all of the other modules in each vehicle. My OTC Nemesysis cost $999 but works on everything not just generic OBD2 codes. Its biggest drawback is it can't command anything other than clear codes. There are many times you need to be able to command things on and off. You also need to be able to view data. On a '06 Tahoe recently I had a p0711 torque converter clutch not holding. If I hadn't had a scan tool to command the TCC to full pulse width, I couldn't have fixed the problem. The govt forced OBD because everybody's codes were different and it was tough for the independent shop to repair them. For now, the manufacturers have gotten past that by making the same module fit many vehicle/engine combinations then requiring the module to be programmed. As far as I know, you're stuck going to each dealer to get your module programmed. Not all modules need programming though.

 

[deadeye012]

Just bought one of these from CarMD. Haven't had a chance to use it as it just came 3 days ago....JB
Untitled URL Link

 

[Mike M]

I just remembered to check. 1990 was the last year for the 307 olds engine. You are correct that 1991 and 1992 had either a 305 or 350 chevy. Then in 1993 it was only a 350.