Lug Nuts - 706

I'm using a 24inch breaker bar with a 13/16 impact socket and was able to remove 3 of the lug nuts.

3 refuse to budge. Applied PB Blaster 24 hours ago several times.

Tried an electric 1/2 drive impact driver. Not a chance.

Is there any other secret or special tool to use to get the remaining 3 off?
It seems the inner flange of the rim is right up against the lugs making it impossible to get a socket fully onto the lug nut. Impractical design?

May have to rent a 3/4 drive higher torque impact driver.
 
The first thing that I would do is get a big hammer and hit the end of the bolt a couple good wraps and then try your breaker bar again.
 
When I have those problems I put a block the right height for the head of the bolt or the nut to hold the corner then I can put all the beef it take to get them loose. I would rather than ruin a good breaker bar go to a 3/4 drive with 3/4 drive socket on the bolt. Then when you get them out if the threads are still good grease them well when putting back in. Grease them run them in and back out then regrease so they have plenty, grease is cheap compared to parts. Might even need to heat the bolts then let cool to ambient temperature and screw out. Some guys swear by candle wax and some heat to melt it in. I've had mixed results or didn't do it right.
 
You might try Freeze Off by CRC. I have used this product a lot and it really works. Spray it on and let it sit for a little while and then try to loosen them. You can also let it sit overnight after several coats of it.
 
Well i use my 1/2 inch drive impact . Something is going to move or twist off . It's and old C P 745 one of the last made in USA and can twist off a grade 8 5/8ths bolt . It can remove the main bearing bolts on a Cummins 855 and them puppys torque in at 605 Ft.lbs
 
The clearance problem may be because you don't have the correct rims for the tractor. Hard to say for sure because we can't see what you have or what the entire problem is. I've personally never noticed a problem getting full socket contact on the lug bolts on any implement rim from either side.

Make sure if you are going to hit something with a hammer, hit the head of the bolt. Banging on the protruding threaded end will just permanently rivet the rim to the hub.

As a last resort before twisting it off and drilling it out, you can heat the bolt. Yes, the bolt. Heat it and let it cool. The expansion of the bolt will stretch the hole and break the rust. Similar in principle to how welding a nut to the head of a broken off bolt works to free it.
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:31 11/30/23) 3/4 drive and a 4 ft cheater. It WILL come loose.

Problem is there is only about 1/4 inch of bolt head reachable due to interference from a raised ridge along the circumference of the rims center opening up against the lugs.

That has resulted in the remaining three lugs getting their edges rounded.
It's nearly impossible now to get any kind of leverage on them since the tool just slips off.

If I could find an impact socket about 1/32 smaller than the 13/16 lug size (25/32), then I could probably pound that on and try again.

I like the idea of heating then very hot then letting them cool. That would probably do the trick (if I could get a socket on them securely).
 
(quoted from post at 08:34:21 12/01/23) The clearance problem may be because you don't have the correct rims for the tractor. Hard to say for sure because we can't see what you have or what the entire problem is. I've personally never noticed a problem getting full socket contact on the lug bolts on any implement rim from either side.

Make sure if you are going to hit something with a hammer, hit the head of the bolt. Banging on the protruding threaded end will just permanently rivet the rim to the hub.

As a last resort before twisting it off and drilling it out, you can heat the bolt. Yes, the bolt. Heat it and let it cool. The expansion of the bolt will stretch the hole and break the rust. Similar in principle to how welding a nut to the head of a broken off bolt works to free it.

Not sure i fully understand this.....

The threaded end is fully inside the wheel hub. There is no way to pound on the threaded side as far as I can see? (At least on the 706)

wait..I see the MISTAKE I MADE HERE.....

The 706 has LUG BOLTS, not LUG NUTS. My apologies. everything I have posted and said was based on the fact that I have Lug BOLTS...but posted the topic as LUG NUTS.
Geez.....I can be dense at times.

I do like the idea of heating the lug.

This post was edited by FinallyFarming on 12/03/2023 at 07:15 pm.
 
(quoted from post at 04:44:02 12/04/23) While you're not supposed to use chrome sockets with an impact but sometimes you have to do what is necessary to get the job done.

Indeed.

Was finally able to get all but one out. That was after obtaining a 1.5 inch diameter, 3ft iron plumbing pipe for more leverage. The 1/2 breaker bar was bent so much I thought it would snap. It survived and returned to it's original shape with no damage. kudos to harbor freight breaker bars.

That last one is now rounded and won't hold a socket. So I'm going to order a set of bolt extractors (1/2 drive) and try that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086H9Y2K3/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A6ASOLLPUMZFR&th=1

71q+pjlED4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


This post was edited by FinallyFarming on 12/05/2023 at 05:51 am.
 

For anyone facing this issue down the farm road....

These bolt extractors did the job!
I used the 21mm tool and tapped it tightly onto the rounded lug bolt then put the breaker bar and extension pipe on it.

It held firm and wrenched that evil lug nut right off.

These are now in my list of necessary tools.

Thank you for your assistance.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top