Major Problem Fixing Injector Pump Leak

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

I was trying to reseal the CAV Injector pump on my MF 255 and had a major goof up. As I was replacing the pump cover the idling spring fell off its guide and into the pump. Try as I might, I haven't been able to locate it inside the pump. Is it possible I could just replace it and leave the missing spring in the pump?

 

[Dieseltech]

I was trying to reseal the CAV Injector pump on my MF 255 and had a major goof up. As I was replacing the pump cover the idling spring fell off its guide and into the pump. Try as I might, I haven't been able to locate it inside the pump. Is it possible I could just replace it and leave the missing spring in the pump?

ONLY if you want to risk wrecking the injection pump hydraulic head with the loose spring getting into something it shouldn't while running...

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

Thanks for the response. That's what I figured. I just cannot figure out where the spring could be hiding. I took the viewing port off the side of the housing and drained the fuel. Still don't see the spring.

 

[Dieseltech]

Thanks for the response. That's what I figured. I just cannot figure out where the spring could be hiding. I took the viewing port off the side of the housing and drained the fuel. Still don't see the spring.

You won't find it as it's already in the governor weight cage area. I've seen this several times before in my years of injection pump repair.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

Is there any way to retrieve it from that area of the pump?

 

[Dieseltech]

Is there any way to retrieve it from that area of the pump?

Not without at least removing the pump from engine, and even then, pump will probably need torn down to find it.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

It's starting to sound like I am going to have to find a shop. I have a related question. Is there a trick, other than brute force, to pulling really stuck fuel lines

 

[Dieseltech]

It's starting to sound like I am going to have to find a shop. I have a related question. Is there a trick, other than brute force, to pulling really stuck fuel lines

With the line nuts loose I've had to use a pick and break apart the rubber line sleeve to remove the inlet and return lines.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

I am having a really hard time extracting one of the lines from its rubber sleeve. Just wondering, can you use penetrating oil around the injector?

 

[jogl]

I am having a really hard time extracting one of the lines from its rubber sleeve. Just wondering, can you use penetrating oil around the injector?

Penetrating oil will not hurt anything.

Which line is stuck? If it has a rubber grommet it is not an injector line. It would be a fuel supply or return line. Does it go from the injection pump to the filter housing?

If the compression nut is loosened right off and the old grommet is sticking you are going to have to get some good leverage on it to remove.

Keep at it,... gently,
JP.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

Thanks for all of the replies. It is/ was a fuel return line between the pump and filter. Good to know penetrating oil would be okay for those lines. I finally did get it loose. It took a long crowbar and a lot of force. Going to need a new line but I couldn't think of any other way. Hope to have time to take the pump soon.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

Was able to remove the pump today. The spring rolled right out of the observation port. May just put a seal kit in the pump and reinstall it. I will have to fabricate a new fuel line or cut and reflare the old one. Should I replace the injector lines while I have the pump off and out of the way?

 

[Dieseltech]

Injector lines don't need replaced unless they are damaged. I use steel brake line to make the inlet/return lines if needed, they don't need to be flared either. When the line nut is tightened on the rubber line sleeve it will stay put without the flare.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

Hope everybody is a having a great weekend! Dieseltech, I was curious if you recall what size brake line to use if I have to replace the line? Also, I have the pump apart and am definitely noticing some wear. The drive gear shaft has a 1/16" groove worn around it. Is this normal for an old pump?

 

[Jim.ME]

Many of these tractors used several different sizes. 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16 were the common ones used. I suggest grabbing your caliper and measuring the OD of "the line" you need to replace, then you know you have the right size.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

I can do that. Wasn't sure if I was looking for the inner or outer diameter on that pipe.

 

[Jim.ME]

The olive specs give you their ID, tubing you are measuring OD to go in the olives.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

I finally have my pump back from being overhauled. Is it possible to put the pump on 180 degrees out on these tractors. Do I need to take the fuel tank and valve cover off to be sure which stroke on which the engine is sitting?

 

[Dieseltech]

I finally have my pump back from being overhauled. Is it possible to put the pump on 180 degrees out on these tractors. Do I need to take the fuel tank and valve cover off to be sure which stroke on which the engine is sitting?

NO!!!!! Long as the gear locating pin is aligned with the drive hub slot pump will be in time. The drive gear fits tight enough in the gear case it can't jump time. Just align the flange mark with the timing case marks, then air bleed as needed.

 

[Ferguson_Enthusiast]

I have a question about fabricating my fuel line. It seems like all of the brake line sold, even when advertised as steel, have a copper component. Usually, it is copper brazed and looks coppery on the inside. Can this be used with diesel?