Making your own bat cables

[Mad Farmer]

I've not done this in a while since I was building hot rod chevys 40 years ago.

I've found a good source for used 2/0 arc welding cable by the foot.

For those that do. What is preferred method to to add the Bat end and the bolted on ends? Then seal both.

I can get copper ends from welding supply that can take solder. Thought of ways to do that.........

Anyone solder to brass bat terminal ends?

The other question is how to best seal both ends?

 

[Dave G9N]

(quoted from post at 17:57:30 09/21/23)

Anyone solder to brass bat terminal ends?

The other question is how to best seal both ends?

1) No, but the guy in the video has.
2) The guy in the video used the heat shrink tubing with the adhesive seal liner that I was going to recommend. He mentions it about 5 minutes into the long video below, but it is a good way to seal a solder splice.

Here is someone who actually makes battery cables:
The long (11 min) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCr135lI07w
and short (3min) version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYWZwX1-r3M

Brass is a little harder to solder than copper because it contains a lot of zinc. A zinc oxide film forms on a brass surface that is hard to remove with flux and will not wet if the film isn't completely removed. It has to be cleaned more carefully than pure copper and should be cleaned well just before soldering. Brass needs a more active (stronger, acidic) flux than copper. Mechanically cleaning the oxide off just before soldering makes the active flux less important.

I do consult the unreliable internet for information and even use some videos for explanations. At least I know the answer I'm looking to illustrate when selecting websites. I filter out a lot of rubbish while looking for a decent write up.
This is about fluxes, good to know, but you don't need these exact ones:
https://superiorflux.com/products/industrial-soldering-flux/copper-soldering-flux/

Adhesive lined heat shrink site with too much information, but you will know what you are looking at on Amazon:
https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/heat-shrink-tubing/dual-wall-tubing.html?tab=pgp-story

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

If'N ya got the time, money, and patience, far out, go for making your own. I find it easier and maybe cheaper to just get pre-made parts exact-as-original made and sold
by DC. 6V battery uses HD, thick as your thumb battery cable for NEG post and the OEM flat braided ground strap. 12V uses smaller dia cables like on your truck. The
nature of the beast.


Tim Daley (MI)

 

[Ultradog MN]

There was just a thread about this a few days
ago.
This is what I wrote then.
I make my own cables.
Napa sells solder-on clamps in left, right or
straight. They also sell the lugs for the
other end in various sizes.
And they sell big honking shrink tubing which
I always use.
Add a piece of welding cable and voila!
These are double ought cause that's what
cable I had. They will probably last longer
than I will.

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 03:14:50 09/22/23) There was just a thread about this a few days
ago.
This is what I wrote then.
I make my own cables.
Napa sells solder-on clamps in left, right or
straight. They also sell the lugs for the
other end in various sizes.
And they sell big honking shrink tubing which
I always use.
Add a piece of welding cable and voila!
These are double ought cause that's what
cable I had. They will probably last longer
than I will.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto163637.jpg>

[b:27297bd22f]
Thanks to all for the replies[/b:27297bd22f], just what I was looking for. I've not had time to look at the videos yet.

Those NAPA solder-on clamps are what I'm looking for (thanks for the pictures). The copper ends might be less expensive at welding supply? NAPA online catalog is a PITA to find stuff, and the new parts counter people are not much better. I talked to one who did not know what points were.....

I'll have to watch the videos. In the mean time @ Ultradog MN any tips on the soldering itself? Can you heat the terminals and make a pool of molten solder then insert a tinned heated cable end? Also happen to have NAPA part numbers for those clamps?

I'm going to make 2/0 for tractors and 1/0 for my trucks (overkill). My thinking as on a sub-zero mornings and cold batteries they will help.

I found an online source of good used cable 1/0 and 2/0 at $3.35 and 3.95/foot, respectively delivered. And figured I can make at least as good/better quality cables for less money.

When I priced large shrink tubing it was more expensive than the cable! So I'm still looking at insulation options. I plan on putting a base layer of liquid electrical tape. The shrink tubing would be best but I'm also considering covering that with a silicone covering. A caulking tube of silicone would do a lot of cables.

Thanks again. If I have time I'll try to get pictures when I do this.

P.S. anyone have a good source of solder-on terminals for smaller wiring?

 

[Hobo,NC]

For a post end this is what I use.

https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/...ugs/crimpable-battery-lug-36308-positive-post

They have them for positive and negative applications. I never tried to solider them because I have the correct crimper. For the copper lug I solider them on I use to just crimp them but had a cable slip out of the lug : ( so I insured them with solider now.

On a crimp application I coat the connection with silicon dielectric compound then crimp. Its expensive and time consuming but the most trouble free. Any type of clamp on are connections that use a set screw to make the connection will come back to haunt you. [/url]

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 05:07:53 09/22/23) For a post end this is what I use.

https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/...ugs/crimpable-battery-lug-36308-positive-post

They have them for positive and negative applications. I never tried to solider them because I have the correct crimper. For the copper lug I solider them on I use to just crimp them but had a cable slip out of the lug : ( so I insured them with solider now.

On a crimp application I coat the connection with silicon dielectric compound then crimp. Its expensive and time consuming but the most trouble free. Any type of clamp on are connections that use a set screw to make the connection will come back to haunt you. [/url]

Thanks for the link Hobo. I'm leaning towards all soldered connections. Looks like those posts would solder up well, tin plated copper. I'll compare those with the NAPA ones

 

[DN-N-TN]

I use the holder part of an old flaring tool set and a vice to crimp battery cable (Hillbilly Way). You have a selection of sizes and they stay in place, Dennis

 

[Eman85]

I don't make a lot of cables but I bought a hydraulic crimper off of ebay or Amazon, can't remember. I've had the hit it with a hammer crimper for years, didn't really like it. For the bolt on end of a cable I use copper lugs, solder and crimp. You can but the lugs with a solder pellet in them and use a torch to heat it. Always use shrink tubing on the ends, if available use red on one and black on the other.

 

[DoubleO7]

I use the Quick Cable line of compression terminal ends.
No soldering. Like the 5020U for 2/0 or 5010U for 1/0 cables.
All cast copper.
They have the solder type also.
Available at grainger and others.
https://www.quickcable.com/product-...s-lugs+straight-terminals&_=1695393059419

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 20:57:30 09/21/23) I've not done this in a while since I was building hot rod chevys 40 years ago.

I've found a good source for used 2/0 arc welding cable by the foot.

For those that do. What is preferred method to to add the Bat end and the bolted on ends? Then seal both.

I can get copper ends from welding supply that can take solder. Thought of ways to do that.........

Anyone solder to brass bat terminal ends?

The other question is how to best seal both ends?

So.much easier to order them.

https://www.boatwireusa.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot

 

[DoubleO7]

So.much easier to order them when it is a link:

https://www.boatwireusa.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot


https://www.boatwireusa.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 16:53:27 09/22/23) So.much easier to order them when it is a link:

https://www.boatwireusa.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot


https://www.boatwireusa.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot

Thanks for the help. Formatting posts on this gawd awfull forum software is so psinful I have given up trying. Plus interesting thing about current generation browsers and smart phones - if its a well formed URL they can automagically figure that out.

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 11:03:39 09/22/23)

(quoted from post at 20:57:30 09/21/23) I've not done this in a while since I was building hot rod chevys 40 years ago.

I've found a good source for used 2/0 arc welding cable by the foot.

For those that do. What is preferred method to to add the Bat end and the bolted on ends? Then seal both.

I can get copper ends from welding supply that can take solder. Thought of ways to do that.........

Anyone solder to brass bat terminal ends?

The other question is how to best seal both ends?

So.much easier to order them.

https://www.boatwireusa.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot

Those are real nice especially since the wire is all tinned.

But then I'm up to ~$43 for 2' cable. If money was not tight now....

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 06:56:06 09/23/23)

(quoted from post at 11:03:39 09/22/23)

(quoted from post at 20:57:30 09/21/23) I've not done this in a while since I was building hot rod chevys 40 years ago.

I've found a good source for used 2/0 arc welding cable by the foot.

For those that do. What is preferred method to to add the Bat end and the bolted on ends? Then seal both.

I can get copper ends from welding supply that can take solder. Thought of ways to do that.........

Anyone solder to brass bat terminal ends?

The other question is how to best seal both ends?

So.much easier to order them.

https://www.boatwireusa.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot

Those are real nice especially since the wire is all tinned.

But then I'm up to ~$43 for 2' cable. If money was not tight now....

One of my favorite adages:

"[i:56d008b7fc]You only get what you pay for and sometimes not even that"
[/i:56d008b7fc]
[b:56d008b7fc]Anonymous[/b:56d008b7fc]

 

[Mad Farmer]

Ask and ye shall receive.......

Just found out my best friend has a big stash of used 2/0 arc welding cable. "How much you need, free!....." Got enough now to redo 1 tractor. Insulation is in good shape.

On to terminals........

 

[Mad Farmer]

Another friend has real solder.......

 

[DoubleO7]

Now the trick is to get them well soldered without a bunch of burnt and crunchy cable insulation.

 

[Mad Farmer]

That will be easy. Propane. Real solder melts quick.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 13:22:54 09/25/23)
That will be easy. Propane. Real solder melts quick.

[i:2df21631a4]She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie - propane[/i:2df21631a4]