Making your own bat cables

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 20:02:37 09/25/23)
Now the trick is to get them well soldered without a bunch of burnt and crunchy cable insulation.

Heat the end till it will melt solder fill the hole with solder, push the cable into the hole of molten solder.

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 16:34:25 09/25/23)

(quoted from post at 20:02:37 09/25/23)
Now the trick is to get them well soldered without a bunch of burnt and crunchy cable insulation.

Heat the end till it will melt solder fill the hole with solder, push the cable into the hole of molten solder.

That is the plan then fill around to seal it.

 

[Hobo,NC]

If its done correctly no need to fudge with it anymore. Just keep it stable till it cools a bit.

 

[Dusty MI]

There is anti-oxidizing past/grease used when assembling aluminum wire/busbars, that will also prevent copper battery cables from corroding, even the battery post, when coated with it.

 

[ChrisFromCLE]

There is anti-oxidizing past/grease used when assembling aluminum wire/busbars, that will also prevent copper battery cables from corroding, even the battery post, when coated with it.

I have used the popular anti-oxidant/conductive pastes called Penetrox or No-lox on battery terminals and have found that they quickly become non-conductive. Don’t know for sure but suspect it is due to the acidic atmosphere when the battery is charging. Has anyone else experienced similar? I know there are dielectric grease products out there but I have found cleanly brushed and tight connections to be best.

Chris from CLE

 

[Fixingfarmer]

So I used some similar products in the past. Coating the top seems to help corrosion wise but you are correct they aren’t very conductive you have to scrape some away to jump and cleaner wise you are better off with the old school brush type than anything in a can. I do use it if I just cleaned up something nasty put a new cable on a crusty battery or vice versa depending on what the customer wants. My owns truck that jumps everything I use a dual post battery truck is hooked to the ones down below tops are ready for jumping with a brush terminal cleaner in the pickup door.

Building a battery cable I have never soldered one as I never saw the need to. So my 2005 pickup the solders on the back of the gauge cluster go bad from time to time. You pull the cluster and re solder and then then the wife can tell what gear it’s in again and not have to count. By contrast the cables were replaced when I did the master switch in 2009 used for 4 batteries. No solder crimped ends. The shaking will destroy the solder as you bounce across railroad tracks that’s just the nature of it it’s relatively inflexible. Often on a cable what fails is the inflexible end so although the thought is good I don’t know that It’s worth it. Use crimping tool then cover with heat shrink at the little gap area. Find an implement dealer that sells the big rolls you will be surprised how cheap the cable will be the ends will be more. I think I had 36 dollars in the last 4 footer of big big cable I think the gauge was 0 is what they called it or aught it stays nice and flexible. Around here it’s caterpillar. He might even build it for you if you are in there from time to time. You are correct not to want a premade one though they want way too much money for those little ones in the box at the auto store. I suppose you can solder it too and wave the torch over it in a couple years and it should stay nice and tight too. To each his own