Mantis tiller

BIGR

Member
So I go to use my 2 year old Mantis tiller yesterday and couldn't get it started, pulled and pulled. Got fed up and pulled the plug, etc. Looked in the book and it says you need to drain the gas if it sits for more than 30 days??? So I call the company and they say that's exactly right. So I pulled the carb 3 times went through it, changed the plug, fuel and air filters, finally got it to start but it won't stay running. Got fed up, hung back in the shed. Went and got my 37 year old Troy-Bilt tiller that's been sitting all winter and it fired first pull. Later in the day, I needed to trim some bushes and I pulled out my 25 year old plus Homelite 2 stroke gas hedge trimmer that started first pull. Decided maybe the Mantis will become just a wall hanger, I don't need to work that hard to start something that I need to work with. There's alot to be said for the old equipment.
 
I have similar problems with other pieces of equipment. The newer equipment has rebreathers and other such devices to limit harmful emissions. As such, I think they are more finely tuned and run in narrower variances. Here in California, the state is continually mandating the refomulation of the fuel as they discover their miracle additives are harmful to something other than the environment. 90% of all repairs at small engine shops in CA are fuel related.
 
I have two of the Mantis tillers and they both neede new pulse diaphragms and flapper valves to get them running right. One is a 1982 model. Now all of a sudden they both needed these parts. Maybe it's the Sears 2 cycle oil with stabilizer that I started using.
 
Coupla tips for coping with our wonderful "modern" gasoline:

Buy gas for all your seasonal tools in one jug, of appropriate size for the "working" season, depending on how many tools you have. Always get premium gas- its better for the engines (burns cooler) and resists breakdown better.

Put in Stabil or Sea Foam as soon as you buy the gas. At the end of the "using" season, pour whats left in your gas jug into your car or (preferably older) tractor or pickup.

Try to remember to drain tools after they are used for the last time of the season, and run them until they quit after draining the tank. But by using premium gas and treating it, you will probably be OK over the winter even if you leave fuel in.
 
Gas changed last year. I started having troubles with carbs plugging on small engines that I had never had trouble on.
Switched to Shell premium and things seem a bit better now. I always put Stabil in the can when I fill it.
 
I have two Mantis and an Echo, all were discards. I could not see spark from either of the Mantis, purch a new coil, about $60, and could barely see spark from it. I also installed new carb kits in each and yet they are not easisy started, gave one to my daughter, she has trouble starting.
 
A friend has a four stroke, red, can't remember the make. Two years old. Drained carb etc. in winter. Rebuilt carb this spring and still won't start. My 30 year old Briggs starts on second/third pull every time.
 
I have one of those Mantis tiller's bought new in 1984. I tried to use it on Saturday around the rhubarb plants and it wouldn't start. I pulled the plug and stuck my little finger on the plug wire and I could feel it firing so installed another plug and it fired right up. You may need a new carburetor kit. I didn't drain mine. Hal
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I have two suzuki 2cycle Toro commercial 21" lawn mowers, they both fired up on one pull yesterday after sitting all winter. Toro usta call them GTS or gaurenteed to start on the first or second pull. Mine are over 10 years old, best hand mowers I ever had.
 
Mine starts every time. Never have drained any fuel. Although I expect that's a good idea. Stabil seems to ahve prevented any issues.
 
I had one of those given to me about 7 years ago, never did run right. As you said, the only way to start it was remove the filter and dump fuel in it to prime it, might have to do this 4 or 5 times before it would warm up enough to run. Once it was running, you'd better be sure you were done, because if you let it try to idle, it would NOT start. Had to let it sit until it was stone cold and then do the whole prime procedure over again. It sat for 5 or 6 years. Finally bought a carb kit and put in it and it runs like a top now. And to think, it ALMOST got flung unceremoniously into the ditch with EXCESSIVE force ...
 
E10 ethanol mixs are the main complaint here in Wisconsin for small 2 strokes. Pays the utility bills in small engine shops cleaning and refurbishing carbs. Fresh premium unleaded for premix in spring helps a over wintered drained tank, shot of seafoam helps also. One of remote garden patchs has a Mantis in garden shed - was a not run donation to friend last year, spark plug,clean carb and fresh premium mix got it going enough last summer for some weed digging, will see what happens next week when rain quits and raised beds get top stirred. RN
 
E10 ethanol mixs are the main complaint here in Wisconsin for small 2 strokes. Pays the utility bills in small engine shops cleaning and refurbishing carbs. Fresh premium unleaded for premix in spring helps a over wintered drained tank, shot of seafoam helps also. One of remote garden patchs has a Mantis in garden shed - was a not run donation to friend last year, spark plug,clean carb and fresh premium mix got it going enough last summer for some weed digging, will see what happens next week when rain quits and raised beds get top stirred. RN
 
E10 ethanol mixs are the main complaint here in Wisconsin for small 2 strokes. Pays the utility bills in small engine shops cleaning and refurbishing carbs. Fresh premium unleaded for premix in spring helps a over wintered drained tank, shot of seafoam helps also. One of remote garden patchs has a Mantis in garden shed - was a not run donation to friend last year, spark plug,clean carb and fresh premium mix got it going enough last summer for some weed digging, will see what happens next week when rain quits and raised beds get top stirred. RN
 
I had a company that sells carburetor kits say that ethanol is the culprit for ruining the neophrene diaphrams. You probably should drain the carburetor and tank after each use which is a pain. Hal
PS: I've had to replace the pump diaphram several times on my chain saw. I bought it new in 1986 and never had a problem starting it until ethanol was added to gasoline. I've cut fallen trees that the chunks of wood were so big I had to roll them up planks to load them. The saw never skipped a beat when sawing. It's a Sears Pro model made by Poulan. Never was in a repair shop. It's pretty heavy to use, but I guess I became use to it over the years.
 
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