MF 135 Clutch issue

[mamllc]

My clutch does not seem to be fully disengaging. If I start the tractor in neutral and try to put it in gear it grinds. If I start the tractor in gear and hold the clutch down the tractor does not move untill I let the clutch out, and I am able to change gears, which doesn't seem to make sense. The clutch adjustment looked good according to the book, I tightened it up a little but no difference. The PTO also works if I engage it before I start the tractor, but if I try to engage it from neutral it grinds.

 

[Ron(Ont)]

I recently dealt with some clutch issues too. https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...ch-adjustment-with-fel.1797629/#post-11858970

 

[mamllc]

My next step was going to be to remove the inspection plate and see if there might be something I could do without splittting the tractor, sounds like that's what you were able to do.

 

[mamllc]

Through the inspection hole I can see the PTO adjustment screws, but the main clutch lever screws are hard to see even with a mirror, no way to adjust those without splitting the tractor. The spec calls for .090" clearance on the PTO screws. One of mine is tight, no clearance at all, another has about .050", and the third has room for a 3/32 drill bit with some wiggle room left so probably .100" or so. Obviously way out of spec so I'll adjust them and see what happens, maybe the tight one is not allowing the main clutch to disengage fully? Everything I can see looks good, no damage or loose parts, so assuming everything was installed correctly at one time, how does it get this far out? Seems like if clutch wear has caused this I'm going to be splitting the tractor.

 

[6 SLY PLACE]

Check the pins that hold the clutch fingers that they are not working out of place. Check your pressure plate bolts.

 

[mamllc]

I adjusted the PTO bolts and looked around as much as I could, nothing looked loose, damaged or out of place. No difference, I still can't start it in neutral and put it in gear without grinding. I have not tried to force it into gear. What I do not understand is why I can start it in gear with the clutch in and everything seems good. The tractor doesn't want to move like if the clutch were dragging, and I can change gears without any grinding. The PTO grinds no matter what. With nothing attached to it I can force it into gear and the shaft will turn but I wouldn't try that with anything attached to it. Other than splitting the tractor I don't know what else I can do.

 

[Ron(Ont)]

How much free play does your pedal have at the top? I reduced mine down to about 1/2" to give me a bit more range to stop the PTO from grinding. Last winter, I had to start the tractor with the PTO engaged so I could use the snowblower. Annoying but it worked OK.

 

[mamllc]

Adjusting the pedal was the first thing I tried, no luck. I did manage to get the chipper going one time by starting it with the PTO engaged. Even with the engine just above an idle letting the clutch out was not smooth, very noisy, jumpy sort of thing. It smoothed out once the chipper got going but I wonder what it would do under a load. Not sure I want to find out

 

[Ron(Ont)]

But how much free play did you have after adjustment? What I am suggesting is to reduce the free play to 1/2" to see if you can avoid a new clutch for a while longer.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Through the inspection hole I can see the PTO adjustment screws, but the main clutch lever screws are hard to see even with a mirror, no way to adjust those without splitting the tractor. The spec calls for .090" clearance on the PTO screws. One of mine is tight, no clearance at all, another has about .050", and the third has room for a 3/32 drill bit with some wiggle room left so probably .100" or so. Obviously way out of spec so I'll adjust them and see what happens, maybe the tight one is not allowing the main clutch to disengage fully? Everything I can see looks good, no damage or loose parts, so assuming everything was installed correctly at one time, how does it get this far out? Seems like if clutch wear has caused this I'm going to be splitting the tractor.

"One of mine is tight, no clearance at all". That's the clue. No one adjusted it to that "tight"point. It's time to open it up and see what went wrong. You can adjust all day and not solve the problem from the outside.

 

[mamllc]

"One of mine is tight, no clearance at all". That's the clue. No one adjusted it to that "tight"point. It's time to open it up and see what went wrong. You can adjust all day and not solve the problem from the outside.

I think you're right. I adjusted them just because I was already under there and it was quick and easy, hoping I might get lucky but not really expecting to. I didn't. Since I'm all out of things I can do from the outside it looks like I'll be splitting the tractor.

 

[phil25]

just a note on your problem, the pilot bearing or throw-out bearing maybe starting to seize, or the mechanism to operate it has a problem...the fingers loose or slipping on the clutch pedal shaft...any sign of oil/grease on the clutch plates, able to have someone operate the clutch while looking in the inspection plate hole.. if the end result is a split, accept the fact of new bearings regardless, hope it helps