MF 135 draft control/3pt hitch position

[Matthew Rice]

I finally got to pull my root rake with my new to me Massey. The lever on the right is marked draft control, but it moves the position of the three point hitch. The lever to the left of it is marked position, but it doesn"t seem to change the height of the hitch. Could anybody explain how to properly use the draft control and get the hitch to stay in one position without drifting up and down? Dave, if you read this I need some help with the brakes. Thanks.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you are using a draft sensitive implement, like a turning plow you can use both draft and position levers to set the plow so it rises a bit when the soil gets tough. That's what draft control does, it adjusts the depth to keep the power required to pull it nearly constant as the condition of the soil changes.

To work with a mower, put the draft lever full up and forget its there. Then the position lever will control the mower height.

Gerald J.

 

[John (UK)]

The Position Control should be the one you need to do that, it should hold the link arms in any position you place the lever. When you come to transport the implement, just move the Position Control Lever to the Transport position use the marker for this. For Draft control, move the Draft lever to lift the implement and then to lower it into work, move the lever until you have the correct depth and set the lever marker so you can go back to it each time, all you do now is lift and lower with the Draft lever and set the depth and vary it should it need it. There is also a third lever for the "Response", this is on the right side close to the footplate, this controls the speed the implement drops and should be set to start with about half way, if the implement doesn't follow the ground properly then move the Response lever towards the Fast mark slightly, if the implement tends to lift and lower in work quite quickly then slow it down by moving the Response lever towards the slow mark until the implement rides flat. The Response lever should be set as slow as possible to allow the implement to run as flat as possible, doing this will increase the weight transferred from the implement onto the Tractor and this will give better traction to the rear wheels (less wheel spin) If you would like a more fuller version of all this that explains it in more detail, email me at:- fergusontractors(at)tiscali.co.uk
and ask me for the info you require...John

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you do all the above and your draft control works poorly and your position control doesn't work at all, your linkage is messes up. I went through the same. I&T shop manual has the simplest discription of adjustments in a couple of paragraphs. I think you will find your position control cam has moved forward so the roller is riding the verticle face instead of the top. You will see the stop screw at the top Fig.282 Item B will not hit anything. When the cam is positioned correctly the adjustments are simple. I believe the cam gets in the wrong place by taking the outside contrrol quadrant appart and allowing the levers to go beyond their normal position. I fixed mine and it worked perfectly. When I took the the quadrant appart to straighting the lever rubbing the seat, the levers swung arround and it went right back to not working again. I took it appart and same as before, cam in wrong place. Fixed it again and it works perfect again.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Hello Mathew,
I assume that you have inspected the condition of the shoes and drums and made sure that there is no oil present from the hub seals.
If your adjustment is good and you find that you have to stand on the pedal to stop with any sort of efficiency or maybe not stop at all then I think that the following will help you.
First of all apply the brakes. On the inner end of each brake shaft you will see the operating lever. If you look at the left side I think you will see that it is well towards the 7 o'clock position and likewise with the right hand one, well towards the 5 o'clock position. If this is the case, disconnect both rods at front and rear.
Remove the wheels and support the tractor safely.
Remove the drums and disconnect the return springs. A piece of hay twine and a screwdriver or hammer handle are useful to get a good pull on the spring as they are strong. Ease the spring and washer on the brake shaft back at least an inch. Pull the shaft out as far as it will go.
The square cam at the end of the shaft will proibably have a worn area where the shoe tips make contact. Check both sides. Clean up with an angle grinder and apply some weld. Mild steel rods take OK. Grind back to the original shape. You can leave the repaired face a little bit proud to counteract wear in the shoe tips.
Reassemble the springs. A little copper-grease may be added under the shoe point as it will make brake operation smoother. Adjust the shoes until the drums go tight. Tie the brake pedals in the fully 'up' position. Refit the brake rods at the rear. Adjust the front end until you can just fit the pins and splitpin all pins. Slacken off the drum adjusters by an equal amount until the drums turn freely. Refit the wheels and carry out balancing on a concrete or tarmac surface. If your tractor does not have power steering engage first low and lock the pedals. Apply the brakes and any bias will be shown by the steering wheel turning. If you have a handbrake fitted then you will need to adjust the rods until you achieve balance.
I have repaired numerous 35's and 135's over the years and everyone when completed has for us 'stopped on a sixpence'. You should now find that the pedals have a bit of 'spring' in them rather than the solid 'wall' as before.
Cheers
David
Where are you by the way?

 

[Matthew Rice]

Dave, actually I have not pulled the wheels off to check the brake pads. I have been very busy the past few weeks. I am looking forward to having some free time to fix some minor things and get some use out of it. I have a Mig welder and do a lot of metal work so I can handle your "fix" better than a lot of other stuff that needs to be done. I live in west Alabama, in Tuscaloosa county. Amako, I just received the I and T manual today, and I was trying to read through the parts that told about the hydraulics. What you said made sense, because it seems like the position control does nothing. Thanks for all the help

 

[Matthew Rice]

I saw the diagram that you were referring to in the book. You said that you took the outside control quadrant apart. What exactly is the control quadrant? Is it the plate that bolts to the tractor rear end where the shaft for the draft and position control go through? Thanks again.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Yes, if you take it appart, the levers can go beyond their normal movement range and the position control cam will be in the wrong position. I removed the lift cover to fix it, once because my controls didn't work and once because I took the Quadrant appart and the levers swung loose. Both times the interior cam position was the same, not in the right place. Someone may know a way to swing the levers from the outside to get the cam in the right place. I couldn't find mention of this in any manual.