MF 165 - Common Problems? are there any?

[profire31]

Hello group. Hope everyone is doing well and can offer me a little insight. I found a MF165 diesel at a local dealer for $4500. It doesn"t look to be in bad shape but it is well used with almost 5000 hours. Just trying to get an idea how the price falls on these critters and any problems that were common. The dealer told me the top 3 were with the multi power, hydraulics, and breaks. I said ok and went on like I know all about it but I"m telling you I have no idea what a multi power is, where it"s at or how to check. All I saw was 2 sticks. 1 for the 3 speed and 1 for the hi/low. The hydro was smooth and drums were not wet. Wasn"t a clean up job either as the dirt was still there.

Any help is appreciated and thanks 100 times in advance.

 

[jtrunk]

Gave $3500 for one last June. Sheet metal is rough. The tractor needed brakes and a generator rebuild so $4500 doesn't sound too bad. The multipower is a lever on the dash and it shifts the trans up or down a touch while on the go.The perkins diesel is a real fine engine-have one on a 65mf with multipower that has given me 20 years service with little trouble.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Hi,
There is a whole bundle of questions here. Pricewise that should equate to £3225 by yesterdays close. I think its a little on the high side unless the tractor is very good. Aim for nearer $4000.
To start; check all tyres especially the rear ones for cracking and wear. Multi-power can be expensive to repair so you need to be sure that it is working OK. A basic check with the oil warm is to park it on a slope facing upwards and engage forward gear. Hold the clutch pedal at the bottom of the first stage and release hand and foot brake. The tractor should NOT run back until you press the pedal fully to the floor. Likewise park facing downhill and engage reverse. This is called the Hillhold facility.
There is no engine braking present in MP Low so if you plan to use the tractor on steep slopes bear this in mind. Drive down the slope in 2nd high and briefly move the MP lever into Low. You should feel the tractor start to pick up speed a little. Move it back to High and it should slow down. On the flat, start off in 2nd or high in MP Low and then move to MP High. You should feel a crisp 'lurch' as the tractor increases speed. It is approximately 30% faster in High.
There are no common problems with the hydraulics.
Brakes can be a problem depending on which type are fitted. 'Dry' brakes can jam on at the slightest touch of the pedal and will require a change of direction to free them. They are 'all or nothing'. If the tractor has 'wet' brakes, immersed in oil in the rear axle they have a far greater life and better efficiency. Whichever type, look at the rear of the footplates and you will see a threaded rod protruding forward from the axle on each side. Anything over 1 1/2 inches of rod suggests that the brakes are well worn. As you sit in the seat which side is the exhaust on? If it is on the left you will have the earlier 203 engine and almost certainly dry brakes. Exhaust on the right is the 212 engine roughly 1968 onwards. If the rear axle casing is of squarish appearance then the tractor is 1970 ish with wet brakes. Does it have power steering?
Have YOUR assistant rock the steering back and forth and check the linkage under the centre of the front axle for any movement other than pull and push on the rods. Movement here is a problem and will give reduced assistance if PAS fitted.
Again, if PAS check for excessive play in the steering wheel. Initial free ,ovement is required to activate the system but check all moving steering parts. Do not be afraid to remove the front grille door and observe movement of the steering ram components for anything other than push and pull. You will see a large nut in one arm sitting on top of another arm. Movement here is correct as it is the adjustment. Remove the engine oil dipstick and check for fumes/smoke and excessive drops of oil being blown out at fast idle. Check for any air bubbles coming up inside the radiator. Listen for any odd noises when stationary and on the road. Think that's covered most of it.
DavidP, South Wales UK

 

[profire31]

thanks for the help. those few little things means alot when it comes from someone who knows what they are talking about. thanks again

 

[Anonymous-0]

That's a good price. 5000 hours isn't a lot on a diesel and the Perkins in a 165 is a very good and fuel efficient engine. The best in its class actually. Multi-power was an optional shift on the go high and low speed. The biggest problem with a 165 is the same as a 135. If you find one in good shape, don't wait too long to buy it or it will be gone. Dave

 

[phillip d]

Dad said the two he had both had a front wheel side to side wobble,since near new?

 

[Finn Md]

I have a 165. You should take your time and check it out - don't feel rushed. Check oil levels and antifreeze (radiator cap is under hood towards front) before and after you run it. Let it idle for at least 10-15 minutes and observe for excessive smoke and oil leaks, and usual stuff at gauges. Constant oil drips are common at underbelly at 2 sets of cotterpins - usually from oil pan gasket if the oil is black like motor oil (not a big deal) -- if more clear oil probably hyraulic oil and indicates a tranny leak (expensive). After it is well warmed up drive it around and check clutch and brakes functioning. Check that steering is same when turning left and right. Remove front grill and look for oil leaks at the steering cylinder shaft & seals areas - can be expensive to fix. Check breaking with each left and right side petals independently -- careful to do this only when going slow. If it has Multipower there will be a lever on dash that moves up and down. This is for use while tractor is moving to instantly shift range. I am not a fan of MP as I think they are a weak link and often fail - and can be expensive to fix. Check hydraulic oils for good clean appeance (not milky white or gray) - the dipstick for this is right side below seat. Engine dipstick is left side of engine. Motor oil should not have bubbles and smell like diesel. Overall, an excellent tractor and folks that know tractors agree this is a good one. After you run it for awhile check to see if lift arms go up and down by slowing moving the inner Position control lever up and down. Note - the outer Draft control lever should be pulled back while operating 3-point links with Position control. The 3-point links should move smoothly up and not jerky and noisy. The 3-pt should stay steady with Position control lever movements. Leave the 3-pt up all the way and when you shut tractor off the 3-pt should stay up for a while, and it will very slowly eventually seep down - that is perfectly normal for a MF 165. But, if 3-pt drops down in a few minutes after you shut off engine there is probably a hyrdaulic leak in cylinder. $4500 is a reasonable price if all things check out, runs good, and tires decent. Good Luck