Fred:

The tach can be readily changed from beneath by opening the hood.

The gauges can be changed from behind as well but it is more tedious and time consuming as workspace is limited.

I removed and replace all of the gauges in my 35 deluxe without removing the dash but it took some time.

It helps if your hands are not too big. A good set of 1/4" drive sockets and ignition wrenches will also help.

Dean
 
Many thanx for your help.

There is a piece sheet metal that is between the gauges and the battery.

Mine has multiple rivets where the hood closes.
The rivets hold a rubber seal which the hood closes against. Up from underneath is the only way in. It looks like a real chore.
 
My experience with tractors is that nothing was designed to be serviced, and probably not much for manufacturing. The easiest way I've found to work on the dang things is to take it all apart till you can get at what you're after, otherwise you'll be spending hours scratching your head and busting your knuckles and probably break something to boot. And while you've got it all apart, clean it real good because that will probably be the first and last time it happens.
Under the topic of IIABDFI (if it aint broke don’t fix it). Sometimes just cleaning the 40 years of dirt off makes everything better. On the other hand when the dirt’s gone you usually uncover other problems which leads to the (CAN OF WORMS) and the (IF YOU FIND YOURSELF DIGGING A HOLE DEEPER AND DEEPER… STOP DIGGING) clichés.
I found that the Massey 1100 I am working on has several gear shifting linkage shafts which have neither lubrication points nor replaceable bushings and are immersed in water part time. It’s steel to cast iron and likes to seize up, so I drilled and installed zerks to eliminate the problem. Not OEM but works a heck of a lot better.
Get the manuals. They help, but can’t even come close to good advise from the knowledgeable folks hereabouts.
 
My experience with tractors is that nothing was designed to be serviced, and probably not much for manufacturing. The easiest way I've found to work on the dang things is to take it all apart till you can get at what you're after, otherwise you'll be spending hours scratching your head and busting your knuckles and probably break something to boot. And while you've got it all apart, clean it real good because that will probably be the first and last time it happens.
Under the topic of IIABDFI (if it aint broke don’t fix it). Sometimes just cleaning the 40 years of dirt off makes everything better. On the other hand when the dirt’s gone you usually uncover other problems which leads to the (CAN OF WORMS) and the (IF YOU FIND YOURSELF DIGGING A HOLE DEEPER AND DEEPER… STOP DIGGING) clichés.
I found that the Massey 1100 I am working on has several gear shifting linkage shafts which have neither lubrication points nor replaceable bushings and are immersed in water part time. It’s steel to cast iron and likes to seize up, so I drilled and installed zerks to eliminate the problem. Not OEM but works a heck of a lot better.
Get the manuals. They help, but can’t even come close to good advise from the knowledgeable folks hereabouts.
 
This project started with fixing the tachand changing the fluids..
Now I might as well paint and replace bushings
rewire,fix brakes,rear seals,and might as well add anew seat.

My Father always said do " Do it Right or not at all".
 
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