MF35 clutch Issue

[Steve911]

I have a MF35 with the gas engine and no power steering. Im not sure of the year model because the data plate had been removed. I have owned this tractor for 9 months. I used it to grade the drive and used the boom to move a few things. Never had any problems and did not have any leaks. I bought a 5 foot finish mower and mowed about two acres with it and it mowed fine. After I finished mowing I noticed that there was an oil leak which turns out to be hydraulic fluid. The leak is coming from around the clutch shaft where the pedal attaches and where the tractor bolts together about 6 inches under the starter. Again I had no leaks before I used it to mow. Which is also the first time I used the PTO.
Now other than having a leak my problem is when I start the tractor now I have no clutch. The pedal is adjusted correctly and feels as it should when depressing it. The pedal also still has a little bit of freeplay at the top before you feel the resistence when depressing the pedal. I can idle the tractor low enough to get it in gear and drive it around. When I depress the clutch pedal as Im driving around the tractor just keeps going like there is no clutch. After driving around a while and pressing the clutch 50 or 60 times the clutch will start working as it should and work fine from then on. Once I park the tractor for a day I have the same problem again. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[john in the highlands]

If you don't have a loader, I'd get under the tractor and take off the "inspection" plate (4 bolts), you will now be able to look
up and see your clutch. It should be dry. With the engine off, brakes on naturally, and eye protection. have someone push on the
clutch as you watch it move, also checking for wetness where contact is being made. I use a camera to magnify the image to see
better what's happening. Unfortunately, I don't know how to load up pictures onto this website. Stuff leaks from older tractors,
it's when it then leaks onto something it shouldn't, problems surface and you are alerted to the problem. Hopefully someone more
knowledgeable with this problem, will step in to help!

 

[Steve911]

Thanks. I will check that.

 

[DavidP,South Wales]

Hi, as John has said, if possible remove the inspection plate on the underside of the clutch housing. But before doing that, check the oil level in the transmission using the dipstick in the round Rh side cover. The oil level must NOT be above the “full” mark. If it is, it will make it easier for oil to pass into the clutch housing and onto the brake shoes. I suspect that this is what has happened here. Oil has almost certainly passed through the input housing seals because of overfilling, a worn or collapsed seal. It will reach the PTO plate first and cause it to drag and render engagement close to impossible. I further suspect that you can only engage it after numerous attempts because you are “warming” it a little. Replacement of the seals is straightforward but you will need a workshop manual, preferably a genuine MF one. You will also need access to a lathe to turn up a couple of tools to seat the new seals correctly and without any damage. If you are able to split the tractor yourself we can take you through the procedure.
DavidP, South Wales

 

[Bob N.Y.]

There is a drain hole just in front of the inspection plate the
others have mentioned. There should be a loose fitting cotter pin in
that hole to keep it from plugging. It sounds like the hole is
plugged and the oil has gotten on the clutch.

 

[Steve911]

Thanks guys. I will check the drain tomorrow when I get home from work. I have maintained the oil level correctly according to the dipstick. It has not been overfilled. I will post my findings

 

[Steve911]

I looked for the drain hole with the cotter pin in front of the inspection plate. I do not see it. I do see a bolt with a 7/16 head on it. I have circled that in the picture that I have attached. Am I looking in the wrong place?

 

[Bob N.Y.]

My mistake. The drain hole is behind the cover plate. I think I can see it at the very bottom of your pic. The cotter pin is missing and the hole is probably full of crud. That is what I found on the 35 I bought last year.

 

[Steve911]

Well you were right. I found the drain. It was plugged and I cleaned it out. It has a steady stream running out. I have watched it drain out 1 quart. When I left it, it was still draining s steady stream. Obviously there is not suppose to be any oil in this section of the gearcase. Before I cleaned the drain hole out I was dripping fluid ahead of the inspection plate where the tractor bolts together, and around the clutch shaft. The hydraulic fluid has not been overfilled. So does this mean that I have seals that have been damaged? Thanks for your help!

 

[Bob N.Y.]

Yes, the transmission input shaft seal is probably bad. If the tractor has Multi-Power it is a bit more complicated.

 

[Steve911]

Thanks for your help Bob. Cranked the tractor today and the clutch worked fine. Thanks again.