MF35 Z134 locked up

[shaeff]

Cross posted to TBN, so if you also post over there, feel free to only answer in one location.

So here's the scenario- MF35 Utility, continental z134

I was using the flail mower to cut down some tall grass, cut some paths through my field. Was running the machine for maybe 1.5-2hrs. Temp gauge never moved, oil pressure good, radiator full, and clear of debris, oil is full.

I noticed it was starting to feel low on power, like when I'd get into tall grass it would bog down and the governor wouldn't pull the RPM back up. I disengaged the flail and was just going to bring it back up to the house. As I'm moving up a small grade in 3rd low, it started to bog even for that. I shut it off immediately at that location out in my field. The machine sat there overnight. I went out the next morning to fire it up, it turned a tiny bit and just stopped. The starter still works fine, but when it engages the flywheel it binds up tight.

Here's the information to know:
- it's not the starter
- I can normally spin this motor (z134) by hand off the fan when in neutral. I cannot.
- I tried to spin it over by the crank pulley. I cannot
- I tried to bar it over off the flywheel. It's stuck, It won't move.
- I tried a huge adjustable wrench off the PTO shaft on the flail with the PTO engaged, it will not move.
- The plugs look great, it was running beautifully prior to this
- No oil or coolant in the cylinders
- I can't see anything concerning in the cylinders with an inspection camera, but the camera I'm using isn't that great.
- I removed the front mounted hydraulic pump (MF35 Utility with a loader on it), the pump spins freely

Is my next step to pull the head? Any other suggestions before I go that route? It *could* use a valve job, so I'm not opposed to pulling the head. I already have the hood and gas tank removed for better access.

The thing that gets me, it was running when I shut it down. Now it's stuck. I'd think that it would at least turn by hand. The motor didn't feel hot either.

Open to suggestions. Hoping it won't need an in-frame kit, but if it does, I'll do it.

Thanks

 

[marloweg]

sounds like a main bearing went south pull your oil pan

 

[ptfarmer]

Hopefully it didn't spin a main bearing in the block, reguardless the oil pan needs to come off.

 

[shaeff]

I hope not. There was zero indication if that s what happened. Wouldn t surprise me, with my recent stroke of bad luck over the past few months.

I m going to pull the valve cover first to see what s going on up too. Maybe the oil pan will be #2 on the list.

There was no knocking or anything, it sounded great while running, just down on power. I d rather it be an issue in the head. Easier fix.

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

did you try turning the motor backwards CCW? When my 65 spun a rod bearing it was bound solid but when I turned CCW it turned free.

 

[tractorsam]

Much easier than either the valve cover or the oil pan,
pull the oil filter. Cut a section of the filter media out,
clamp it in a vice to squeeze the oil out. Then spread it
open and have a look. But Im with the rest and I think
youll be dropping the pan.

 

[shaeff]

(quoted from post at 02:17:04 11/01/22) did you try turning the motor backwards CCW? When my 65 spun a rod bearing it was bound solid but when I turned CCW it turned free.

Yep, tried to turn it both directions, no luck with either.

(quoted from post at 08:25:54 11/01/22) Much easier than either the valve cover or the oil pan,
pull the oil filter. Cut a section of the filter media out,
clamp it in a vice to squeeze the oil out. Then spread it
open and have a look. But Im with the rest and I think
youll be dropping the pan.

Good idea, I'll do that. I'll update as I get along with it.

Thanks fellas.

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 01:25:54 11/01/22) Much easier than either the valve cover or the oil pan,
pull the oil filter. Cut a section of the filter media out,
clamp it in a vice to squeeze the oil out. Then spread it
open and have a look. But Im with the rest and I think
youll be dropping the pan.

Unfortunately the Z134 oil filter is a bypass design meaning the oil that goes into the filter goes directly back into the oil pan, and not to the bearings like a modern engine does.

 

[shaeff]

I remember you saying this, and if I remember correctly, you replumbed yours to filter first.

I'd imagine that if it's a rod bearing that there would be some prior wear before the lock up, so maybe I'll get lucky.

I bet you guys are right, I'm probably going to be dropping the pan. If that's the case, instead of doing an in-frame, I might be better off pulling the whole motor and rebuilding over the winter in my basement. Finally fix that rear main seal leak...

 

[2tractors]

I'd pull oil pan first.

 

[shaeff]

(quoted from post at 11:30:45 11/04/22) I'd pull oil pan first.

I ll do it this weekend if I can squeeze it in. If not, it ll be next weekend.

 

[JohnPom]

My FE35 stated overheating and losing power after slashing in long grass.
I thought here we go head overhaul.
In fact I found the radiator grill had grass completely blocking it.
It peeled off and was as thick as a carpet.

Ta
John

This post was edited by JohnPom on 11/17/2022 at 12:50 am.

 

[shaeff]

(quoted from post at 08:49:01 11/17/22)
My FE35 stated overheating and losing power after slashing in long grass.
I thought here we go head overhaul.
In fact I found the radiator grill had grass completely blocking it.
It peeled off and was as thick as a carpet.

Ta
John

No overheating here, radiator was clear, temp gauge was normal, oil and coolant full.

I did pull the valve cover this past weekend, I have limited time to work on anything but squeezed it in.

This post was edited by shaeff on 11/28/2022 at 10:49 am.

 

[shaeff]

Last one, you can see a broken piece of a washer/shim here, looks like maybe the valve has sunk a bit?