MF65 loader wont lift

[will78]

Been searching through the old posts about this problem. My loader wont raise at all until I rev the rpms high. And even then its very weak and it bleeds right back off even under the weight of an empty bucket. Also I noticed that the rear arms raised up when I had pressure on the front bucket. I replaced the fluid when I did the brake repair last week. I used permtran fluid, it always seemed to work good in my tractor in the past. Before I start tearing everything apart and checking the hydraulic pump, Im just wondering if its possible that my side control quadrant is out of adjustment. I've never moved the levers since my grandpa had it over 20 years ago. Mine has the 2 spool remote valve under the seat that we always used for the loader and rear hydraulics.

My neighbor claims that masseys have always had very slow hydraulics, but mine has been getting weaker over the years already. I finally had to quit lifting round bales of hay. But its never been so bad that it wont even raise the bucket until now. I dont have any external leaks, checked everything I could find on the outside.

So I'm still just wondering if maybe the side controls need to be moved to different positions??

 

[trac]

I have a 50 and for my remotes to work right away i
chain the lift arms up but i can't remember where
the 3pth levers should be for proper use.As for the
weak hydraulics it may be a bad gasket in the pump
not holding the pressure.On the side of tractor
where the dipstick is take the round cover off start
tractor up look for oil movement like it's leaking
out of the pump with years of lifting bales that
maybe the problem.

 

[Anonymous-0]

There is a pressure relief valve on the pump when they go bad you will move fluid and not build pressure. If you remove the cover with the dip stick you can start the tractor and see if you have fluid rolling in the bottom of the housing if so it is the relief valve. If it is come from above it is your stand pipe. You can replace the relief valve through the cover with a stubby wrench I think it is an 11/16. The last one I replaced cost around 20 bucks, a couple of years back. And don't put your hand in the opening while the tractor is running.

 

[will78]

Thanks for the tips. I'll check it this evening as soon as it cools down a bit. Do I need to drain the fluid down any in order to remove the cover or is it supposed to be dry inside it??

 

[Anonymous-0]

You can remove all the bolts except the lowest one then take that one out and remove the cover and replace it a quickly as you can you will loose a little fluid but it should be lower than the opening.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If it is the relief valve you will need to dump the fluid to be able to remove it.

 

[will78]

Well I removed the cover and started the tractor. I couldnt see very good because my tire was in the way, but it looked like the fluid was circulating around in the bottom. I thought maybe this was just due to gears moving inside the housing lol. I guess I will remove my tire again tomorrow...no small task as its loaded. BTW...the fluid seems extremely thin, almost like water. It even crossed my mind whether or not I was sold the right kind of fluid for it. I bought it in bulk and they filled my buckets. Its supposed to be perma tran, but now its got me wondering.

So does this sound like the relief valve, or is it normal to see a certain amount of fluid circulating??

 

[mkirsch]

Hydraulic fluid is typically about the same as 10 weight motor oil.

There was a post over on the IH forum from someone having a similar problem with a slow lifting loader that dropped right back down.

In his case, someone borrowed the tractor, rammed the bale spear into the ground, and appears to have blown the piston seals in the loader arm cylinders. The hydraulic fluid is flowing right through the cylinders.

Have you rammed the bucket into anything recently? Have you lifted something heavy, maybe a little too heavy?

Before you go tearing the tractor apart, get the hydraulics pressure tested. You should be able to borrow a pressure gauge from any nearby tractor mechanic, or pay one to come over and do the test for you.

Make sure that you're really not building any pressure BEFORE you go tearing the tractor apart.

 

[will78]

No I havent rammed the bucket or anything. Picked up about 200lbs the other day and thats when I noticed the trouble. I removed the spool valve (controls) from under my seat and pulled the pipe up out of the pump and the rubber o rings are completely missing. So Im thinking thats allowing the fluid to bypass back down into the trans reservoir. Couldnt find anybody today that had a pressure tester so Ill have to make my own sometime.

 

[will78]

Everything is back together and working better then it has for years!!!

 

[will78]

Think I opened my big mouth too soon! Lifted a truck motor today in my garage to move it around and although the loader picked it up, it slowed way down and then started leaking back off again. No visible leaks anywhere. Since I replaced the standpipe o rings, Im wondering if the relief valve in the bottom of the pump needs replacing.

I'd love to do a pressure test on it, but I havent found a guage yet.

 

[Anonymous-0]

You can remove the relief valve and take it to a hydraulic shop, they should be able to check it for you. I have problems from time to time with my hydraulic after I've run my tractor for a few hours. once it cools down the hydraulics are fine. These tractors run the same resivour for the transmission and hydraulics so it lubes the transmission and gears as well as being pumped through the hydraulics which builds alot of heat and thin the oil down. The manual recommends 80/90 weight mineral oil. Permitrans is quite a bit thinner than the mineral oil which might be the problem.