MM U rust in heads

[BrigdenBill]

While that amount of rust is of concern you have to remember this about heavy rust and flaking scale. Iron oxide (rust) can expand between 7 and 11 times its original thickness as the oxide expands. Just for example a flake that comes off a 1/16” thick(0.0625”) at 10 times would reduce the actual metal thickness lost to 0.00625” or little over 6 thousandths.

Good to know. I was a little concerned about the amount of rust that came out so far.

 

[BrigdenBill]

I am attaching a photo of one of the heads now that it has most of the rust out.
Also will need new head gaskets. Where do you order gaskets from?

Thanks, Bill.

 

[molinegb]

I am attaching a photo of one of the heads now that it has most of the rust out.
Also will need new head gaskets. Where do you order gaskets from?

Thanks, Bill.

Next waterpump and rad. Old days just reuse originals as low compression motor as long as not damaged. Early U's had a valve lapping kit in toolbox.

 

[G1000VISTA]

I am attaching a photo of one of the heads now that it has most of the rust out.
Also will need new head gaskets. Where do you order gaskets from?

Thanks, Bill.

Try welters farm supply in Missouri. The place for all things Moline.

 

[MMDEL]

You don't want any little pieces getting into you valves when you run it.
I had a truck that I bought with a steel tube between the air filter and engine that got rusty. Some rust got into the engine and ruined it.

Rust from an air cleaner tube Yes, But there is NO way rust in the cooling system can get in the engine.

 

[BrigdenBill]

You don't want any little pieces getting into you valves when you run it.
I had a truck that I bought with a steel tube between the air filter and engine that got rusty. Some rust got into the engine and ruined it.

Good point, I will check the inside of the air cleaner and the hose.

 

[BrigdenBill]

Next waterpump and rad. Old days just reuse originals as low compression motor as long as not damaged. Early U's had a valve lapping kit in toolbox.

Ok, I had a new core put in the rad so it's ready to go.
I haven't looked at the water pump. I could take it off to clean any rust?

 

[BrigdenBill]

I am getting back to work on cleaning up the rust now in the blocks.
I am thinking about removing the soft plugs in the blocks to get more rust out.
Are new soft plugs available? Or is this a bad idea?

 

[used red MN]

I am getting back to work on cleaning up the rust now in the blocks.
I am thinking about removing the soft plugs in the blocks to get more rust out.
Are new soft plugs available? Or is this a bad idea?

Soft plugs or expansion plugs are a common or universal parts. They are available at auto parts stores, they are sold by the diameter of the hole they plug. Some are Welch plugs that are basically coin shaped with a convex or domed shape. The plug is placed in the hole which has a ledge around it. Then the raised up dome is driven down to expand the plug against the ledge.

 

[molinegb]

When changing frost plugs clean port good and add sealant when installing. I use Permatex aviation. Make sure plug is flattened or it will come out.

 

[MMDEL]

You don't want any little pieces getting into you valves when you run it.
I had a truck that I bought with a steel tube between the air filter and engine that got rusty. Some rust got into the engine and ruined it.

No way is there any connection between the water passages and the valves.

 

[J.Wondergem]

Rust from an air cleaner tube Yes, But there is NO way rust in the cooling system can get in the engine.

I don't think that I insinuated that. Just something to check for.

 

[BrigdenBill]

I took two soft plugs out of the blocks yesterday, one from each side of the block. One plug my punch went right through, it was badly corroded.
I will attach a photo of it.

Wondering what condition the other soft plugs are in?
They are not accessible unless i remove a block... thoughts?

Had lots of brown powdery rust that I got out, not too much scale. Used the idea that someone posted with shop vac through
the plug hole and air gun to blow the rust out. Worked pretty good.

 

[molinegb]

Odds are if that one done others quickly to follow. You only have to remove one block for access. Can be done from top with out dropping pan.

 

[NormanSavesTractors]

I am attaching a photo of one of the heads now that it has most of the rust out.
Also will need new head gaskets. Where do you order gaskets from?

Thanks, Bill.

Yesterday's Tractors sells the gaskets you need. Keep in mind, we are also a supplier of parts for antique tractors, and have been doing so since 1995.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Minneapolis-Moline-UTS_Head-Gasket-Set_107464.html

Be sure to check out our webstore. Links above and below the forum.

Thanks!

 

[BrigdenBill]

OK, I was thinking that might be the case. I am going to have to read up on pulling the block as I've never done that before.
Bill.

Odds are if that one done others quickly to follow. You only have to remove one block for access. Can be done from top with out

 

[BrigdenBill]

Odds are if that one done others quickly to follow. You only have to remove one block for access. Can be done from top with out dropping pan.

OK, I will try to take off the rear block. How do you loosen it? Tried a rubber hammer but not budging.

 

[molinegb]

Might need bigger hammer. Sometimes can really get stuck if previous used sealant on block gaskets. May have to wedge something under corner of block. Pour lubricant on bolts.