MMO question.

JD Ga

Member
I used MMO down the sparkie holes of a '46 2N and let set for a day. I turned the engine over a couple times to clear the cylinders,cleaned the plugs up good and reinstalled them. It was awfull hard to restart(which I thought it would be)and it seemed that I had the MMO comming out of the air cleaner hose. So I took it off and sure enough it ran everywhere. Also had the oil comming out around the clamp at the manifold/exhaust pipe junction and the engine ran rough as a cobb. I took the plugs back out and cleaned'em again and it runs great. Is this normal? I've never done this before.Should the MMO been comming out at the manifold and the air pipe?
 
When an engine coasts to a stop, one or more intake valves will be open. If you put enough snake oil into the cyinders that it's level reaches the block deck level, it will spill over to the valve area, and pass through any intake valves that are open (or not seating or sticking), and drizzle down into the intake area.

STINKY fun, wasn't it?
 
As Bob said.. yes it's normal for fluid to run into open valves. think of it like this.. you know your upper cyl is lubed now!

soundguy
 
Not to mention the valve stems (since this is a "side valve engine"), which is a GOOD thing, since the open valves MAY have been sticking.
 
MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil . Its a great additive for loosining stuck vales & pistons of engines that have set a long time & not run when put into the cylinders like this guy did . HTH ! God bless, Ken
 
The quote I was trying to post didn't "take"...

Found on the 'net, from a lube "expert":

"We analyzed and tested both of these additives at Exxon.

Marvel Mystery oil is 30% varsol (charcoal lighter fluid) and 70% 30wt base oil some red dye and wintergreen fragrance. It is from the late 1920s.

Avblend is very light weight paraffinic base oil (sewing machine oil)with 1% ether and blue dye. It is from the late 1950s. If it is absorbed by the metal, why doesn't it leak out of the can?

These are solvent type products. Some people find them beneficial for sticky valves or some sludge dispersal. If you are depending on them for either of these reasons, you have bigger problems.

Both evaporate within hours in an engine. Neither one provides any corrosion protection or anti-wear benefit. Neither one will harm anything in the recommended concentration."

Edward Kollin
Techncal Director
Aircraft Specialties Lubricants
www.aslcamguard.com
 
I have read in ealier posts of people using ATF. Same pricipal? My N doesn't need it but I have an old motorcycle that ran good last time used (1996) but motor is stuck now.
 
Yep. I done it from my barn in a two acre field and and when she cranked you could'nt see a thing.I thought I might have had a stuck valve. Everytime I've ever had the plugs out #1 was always wet and the others were dry.Could that be from a stuck valve, or something else?
 
I would take and drain the oil in that motor cycle and then fill both the cylinders and engine oil area with ATF and let her sit. The ATF may free it up but even if it doesn't it will not hurt it and may even save it from rusting any more then it has already. Since it has locked up it means it has at least had the rings rust to the cylinder walls. I use ATF because it costs about a 1/3 less then MMO does
Hobby farm
 
A little MMO in the gas tank of my Ford 600 made the gas shutoff impossible to turn by hand.It swelled the O ring.This may bother some of the fellows on here that love the stuff but it gave me much trouble.
 
I can't stand the SMELL of the %$^# stuff. If I accidently get a bit on my hands, it about makes me PUKE, and DOESN'T completely wash off.
 
The original formula used oil of wintergreen.A synthetic replaced it.Thinning an oil by 30% and putting it in the crankcase sounds risky.Charcoal lighter fluid can be bought in any grocery store and added to 30 weight oil.I have used atf and turpentine for stuck rings for years .Makes me cringe when someone says fill up the cylinder.
 
(quoted from post at 20:10:46 01/18/08) I can't stand the SMELL of the %$^# stuff. If I accidently get a bit on my hands, it about makes me PUKE, and DOESN'T completely wash off.

It's like fuel. When you wash your hands you also need to rub them on some metal, like steel, to get the gas smell off. Otherwise you have to wash and wash and wash to try to get all of the molecules off.

When I did the automatic transmission fluid treatment on my 2N I thought it would never stop smoking, it was like a james bond smoke screen for about 15 minutes.
 
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