Mo radiator stuff

[MarkB_MI]

I returned the radiator I bought from YT last Friday. It took almost a week to get an RMA; I think that's because it was drop-shipped from Dennis Carpenter and had to be returned there. In the meantime I took my old radiator back to the shop and they re-cored it. I'm real happy with the results, but it cost me $358 with tax.

One of my concerns with the new restoration Dennis Carpenter radiator is how weak the frame under the bottom tank is. That's the only thing that attaches the radiator to the tractor, and it's only about 0.100 inches thick. On the original radiator it's .0125. It's not surprising that whoever tried to install the DC radiator before me bent the frame. I guess these aftermarket radiators are OK for show tractors, but aren't appropriate for working tractors. It's a huge annoyance to me that pretty much all aftermarket tractor parts skimp on metal gauge. I understand that certain US metal gauges might not be available overseas, but they NEVER go thick. Aftermarket sheet metal parts are consistently thinner than the originals. The companies that sell these parts, like YT, DC and Steiner, could insist on better quality but they don't.

When I installed the new radiator, I saw that the only thing keeping the radiator tank from contacting the fuel tank is the upper radiator hose, which is squeezed between the radiator inlet and fuel tank (see pic). I thought maybe the radiator dimensions were different after the recore, but worn-off paint on the gas tank shows it was that way before. Plus, there's really nothing to keep the radiator from flopping backwards if it doesn't bump into the fuel tank. I jammed a piece of radiator hose between the two tanks; now there's an 1/8 inch separation between them.

I discovered why there's an extra set of screw holes in the fan shroud when I fired up the motor. There was a slight ting-ting-ting as the fan hit the shroud. Moved the shroud down using the upper holes and everything is fine now.

Just waiting on my BIL to finish up my hood.

 

[Dean]

Good to hear that things turned out OK.

If you index the hose clamps properly it will be easier to get tools, e.g., screwdriver, 1/4 socket, on to the clamps if servicing becomes necessary.

I always use clamps with hex head screws in order to allow the use of 1/4 sockets in places where screwdrivers do not work and to allow increased torque if necessary.

Dean

 

[Dean]

Don't forget the hood bumpers.

Dean

 

[MarkB_MI]

> If you index the hose clamps properly it will be easier to get tools, e.g., screwdriver, 1/4 socket, on to the clamps if servicing becomes necessary.

Yes, I tried to remember that, since the next time I have to take those clamps on the hood will probably be in the way.

> I always use clamps with hex head screws in order to allow the use of 1/4 sockets in places where screwdrivers do not work and to allow increased torque if necessary.

Yes, that's what I'm using. Also, something I learned back in my days as a yachtsman is that many of the so-called stainless steel hose clamps don't have stainless screws. If in doubt, check them with a magnet. Marine hardware stores will (usually) carry the real SS clamps.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> Don't forget the hood bumpers.

Got 'em. YT sells the ones from Dennis Carpenter.

 

[graham_in_NJ]

FWIW, the gas tank is supposed to be sitting on rubber washers. I used ones a little thicker and was able to raise the tank a little to get some more clearance.

 

[MarkB_MI]

> FWIW, the gas tank is supposed to be sitting on rubber washers. I used ones a little thicker and was able to raise the tank a little to get some more clearance.

That is Useful Information. Thanks!

Looking at the CNH parts site, I see there's supposed to be P/N 351619S rubber washer under the front mount and two P/N NCB9079A spacers under the rear. The front washer and one of the rear ones are completely missing and there's not much left of the other rear spacer. At the least, I'll put something under the front to raise it up.

 

[MarkB_MI]

OK, I added a 1/8 inch thick nylon washer between the gas tank and its mounting bracket. Now there's plenty of room between the fuel tank and the radiator. What a difference an eighth of an inch makes. Thanks, Graham!