Modern Lubrication?

Since there are so many options these days on oils,.....should I stick with what my manual says for lubrication on my 44 AC "C" or does anyone have suggestions or do"s and dont"s on this topic? Nothing has been rebuilt,...I"ve just gotten it running and moving for the first time in about 20 years and just want to do things right. Thanks everyone.
 
Save yourself alot of time and money and just use what the book calls for, those oils worked.
We have 7 Allis Chalmers and the B's and C's are over 50 years old and have never had an oil related problem in any of them using what the book calls for.

We use 30w detergent in the engine---summer, 20w detergent winter.
To save time a 10-30 is fine for summer/winter.

Transmission 20w non-detergent motor oil.

Remember to remove all three drain plugs on transmission/rear housing.
 
Just wanted to let you know that all 7 tractors from the other post were worked and worked hard for over 35 years taking care of 200 acres.
These tractors did not sit in a garage and just get used when there was a parade.
You are free to buy whatever oils you feel good about but the way I see it is if 30w and 20w non-detergent have worked for all those years without a single problem why worry about trying to find something else to use.
You will have people tell you that they were the only oils they had to choose from back then and some of the new combination oils are better but you have to remember the 30w and 20w motor oils are better now too.
 
I use 10w-30 in the engine on my '47 C. If I need to add a little or do an oil change I don't have to keep another oil around just for it, I have keep 10w-30 on hand for my truck anyway.
 
i use 10w 40 in the motor. seems to burn a lttle if i use 10 w-30. i have several B tractors, all use the 10 w 40. in the transmissions, i use the universal hytrans fluid. it is a 20wt hyrdaulic lube oil. in the final drive pans, 80-90 gear lube works good.
 
Maybe back in the 40's non-detergent oil was used, but oil companys do not recommended it any more. Go with modern oils of today 10-30, 10-40, or 15-40. Non-detergent oils did not clean the carbon from engines. The dirt would settle out and stay in the engines and build up.
 
For 20w non-detergent for the transmission you can get it at NAPA. If they don't have it on the shelf they can get it for you.
Our True Value store keeps it in stock.
 
I think if you will look at what AGCO recommends now for the trans/hyd. on even the old tractors is Universal transmission/Hydrulic oil.

Kent
 
Again, it is known that there are new oils being used but the fact is that the other oils worked and worked well.
 
the original engine oil was 30 wt non detergent and it did not work well. lots of crud builtup in these old engines. there are been improvements several times over and it is a mistake not to take advantage of that. a good 10 w 30 or 10 w 40 detergent motor oil would be great for these old tractors. likewise using a 20 wt motor oil in the transmission was acceptable 50 years ago because they had nothign better. do yourself a favor and use universall hytrans or similar, it has anti ozidation and water resistant and anti foaming. the motor oils dont do that.
 
I guess after amost 60 years of using the 20w non-detergent motor oil in the transmission without one oil related failure it doesn't need any additives.
 
I'm a novice here,...do you recommend a certain universal hytrans oil? I get most of my stuff from our Cenex shop here in town, I would imagine they would have something to suit my needs?

I am appreciating all of the input! From what I've been reading, I believe that I am going to go with a 10w 30 or 40 for the engine, the universal hytrans for the transmission and stick with the good old 90w for the running gear. Thanks to everyone - and I won't stop respecting the good'ol stuff too.
 
I have been using 10w40 in my B, C, & WD engines since the late '60s.
20w hydraulic in the hydraulic center case on WD.
EP 90 in all other liquid oil cases on all of them. And yes, my hydraulics still work on the B & C
These tractors are work tractors, not pampered, and I have had no falures, just routine wear and mantinace.
The engine oil gets changed when I'm done working ground(lots of dust) and any time it shows any sign of moisture or gets to looking fairly dark brown, not black when warm. I pay no attention to time or hours. This has worked for decades for me in Ohio's climate.
 
These tractors were built simple but tough. Everything runs slow in respect to other vehicles.
They need nothing fancy for oils.
Keep the oils changed at proper intervals and these tractors will be around running good for many years.
 
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