My 8N Hydraulics won't lift a load. What is wrong?

I have a 1949 Ford 8N that I recently bought from my uncle who had it sitting in a shop for 20+ years. After I got it running properly, I tried hooking up to a small 3 point hitch scraper and it won't lift! I can't figure put why, my uncle even was confused. It even got rebuilt and overhauled engine, tranny, Hydraulics, painted everything in 83'. The oil is a little milky I haven't changed it yet but I don't see that being an issue.
 
hi matt, and welcome to YT :)

on an 8N, the PTO must be turning for the hydraulics to lift. the PTO lever is under the seat on the left. pointed forward = PTO disengaged, rear = PTO engaged. then the hydraulics will work, because the PTO operates the hydraulic pump. pump also stops when you step on clutch.

ps: if you've not got a drive shaft attached to the PTO, you should put the cover on it. if you don't have one, they're cheap. just be sure you get the right size, there are 2 ;)

This post was edited by HFJ on 07/25/2023 at 11:21 am.
 
When I have the pro running and nothing attached to the 3 point it will lift but once I add something for example a plow, it wont lift.
 
Hi Mathew, welcome to the forum. You ask what is wrong? Well, for a tractor that has set for 20 years or so, a lot can be wrong. The first thing to do, is remove the inspection cover on the right side of the tractor, the one with the dip stick. With the tractor running and PTO engaged, watch inside for oil squirting or pouring out of something that shouldn't be. If you don't see anything like that, then it might be sticky valves in the pump or a faulty pump.

You really should get a copy of the I&T FO-4 shop manual and an operators or owners manual too.

Get back to us and let us know what you find.
 
I actually have the i&t fo-4 book and the original manual from 1949. I haven't replaced the old oil yet. I'm planning on doing that this week. I'm just going to put light Hydraulic oil in it. Will that be fine?
 
No.

Use what Ford now recommends.


Ford changed the 1939 spec of 80/90w oil to UTF years ago. Any UTF that meets the Ford spec M2C134D will work fine in your N tractor. Just read the label on the container.


I use the UTF from TSC year around here in VA.



You will find the UTF to work a lot better below 32* F than 80/90 w oil.


See tips 3 & 4


Do NOT overfill it. If you overfill it, the excess will leak past the wheel seals and get on your brakes.


Unless the sump is totally clean, a dry sump will only take about 4.5 gallons. Remove the lower bolt on the inspection plate, add 4.5 gallons and come back the next day to
see if it is dripping. Remember, it takes a long time for that oil to get back there.
75 Tips
 
this is the tractor
mvphoto107888.jpg


mvphoto107889.jpg


mvphoto107890.jpg


mvphoto107891.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:26:39 07/25/23) I'm not sure what cover you are talking about. Can you explain where it would be?

it's in the middle of the second pic you posted.
 
Also I'm 13 years old and live on a farm. I don't want to take apart my tractor because my dad is busy currently. He might be free this night or sometime this week.
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:04 07/25/23) Also I'm 13 years old and live on a farm. I don't want to take apart my tractor because my dad is busy currently. He might be free this night or sometime this week.

no rush. now you know where to look when he gets the chance :)
 
The quadrant could be out of adjustment. If it is
rotated too far forward , it will not throw the valve in
the pump far enough. This is the case if the arms
will raise with no load. If they are completely dead,
something else is wrong. The adjustment is the 4
bolts holding the quadrant to the top cover. They
are slightly elongated for adjustment. If the arms
raise empty, hang some weight on them and push
the handle forward; it should move about 2 inches
before the load starts to fall. The exact
measurement must be online somewhere. If it is
one inch or less, need to rotate quadrant to adjust.
 
There is the possibility of blown gasket or some
failed internal hydraulic circuit, but I think that if this
were the case, the arms would start dropping as
soon as the weight was added, due to internal
leakage.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top