NAA questions

[grandpa Love]

Buying a naa. Been sitting a few years.
Previous owner got sick and passed. He
was attempting to put a felt seal in with
out splitting tractor. Oil pan and pump
are off. It was leaking oil. How
difficult a job is this?

 

[1sarge]

Grandpa, I assume you are talking about the rear main seal, right. I have pulled new rope seals in one. There is a tool used to do it that has a small cable to pull them in. I have one here had I know you would need it when you were here last week. Not expensive as I remember though. I am sure some others with experience on this will chime in.

 

[Danny Prosser]

Grandpa be careful of what you actually have. You can swap motors trans and rear ends on a lot of those old Fords. Believe me I have 2 a Jubilee and a Franking tractor my daddy made. It has a Jubilee motor and front end but a 640 trans and rear end. Some parts aren't the same. I had to replace the water pump and forgot what engine it was and got one for a 600 and they were different. Just keep it in mind them old tractors and old mechanics over the years made things work! But that's what I love about both of them!

 

[Dave Wave]

(quoted from post at 16:12:05 03/03/20) Buying a naa. Been sitting a few years.
Previous owner got sick and passed. He
was attempting to put a felt seal in with
out splitting tractor. Oil pan and pump
are off. It was leaking oil. How
difficult a job is this?

Its not hard, but not easy. You have to drop the rear main, loosen the middle a bit and the front a touch. If you drop the crank too much, you damage the front seal.

The rope seals can stick in place and are very friable after so much time so can disintegrate when you try to pull on them. You can take a long narrow steel shim (like the metal piece in windshield blades) and work that around the upper seal to try to get it loose.

Access is bad and you have to work by touch.

I ended up leaving the upper in and replacing the lower. So long as I don't top the oil more than 1/2 full, it does not leak much.

You can get the two piece seal on this site. I put a dab of black RTV where they meet.

You also need to replace the wedge seal on the carrier when you put it back (soak in oil before install).

Good luck

 

[Dave Wave]

"Sneaky Pete" is the seal tool if you go that route...

 

[Den N Ms]

Grandpa , would pull the engine and put it on a stand to work on it easily.Then you can also check/replace clutch/throw out bearing and transmission front seal,that could be leaking oil on the clutch. Make it easy on your self!

 

[michford]

Agree with Den N Ms, pull the engine. I tried the replace seals lying on my back under tractor route. Was able to use sneaky pete tool to remove old rope seal and used two piece neoprene instead of rope seal. But could NOT get side wedge seals to seal. Tried the soak in oil paper seals, tried the rubber with metal pins, no luck with either. Ended up pulling engine and put on engine stand. Used Victor Reinz rtv sealant for the wedge seals. 7 years and no leaks.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I have made quite a few post on the rear seal good luck you are gonna need it...

Before I post the link DO NOT SOAK THE SIDE WEDGES IN OIL either use Victor reinz RTV as a replacement are a good RTV on the paper wedge seal... If you have the engine out you can test it for leaks before you put the pan on : )... If the main bearings are worn it will need a crankshaft and there is always the possibility the block itself is worn they use to make a shim for this but don't know where you would every find it... Don't use the replacement seal set that uses pins to set the side seals they are junk...

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1334161&highlight=search