Need help identifying a specific part

[jakesnake66]

I have inherited a '66 or '67 Ford 3000 diesel. Overall it runs great. However, I need to repair/replace one part that I cannot identify. It's the small lever that the kill switch/cut-off cable connects to. The pull-out switch/lever to which the cable connects is fine. It's the piece on the right side of the engine to which the wire connects that needs attention. If I pull the kill lever while on the tractor nothing happens, because the part in question will just spin counter clockwise without engaging. I have to get off the tractor and push the outside nut/bushing inward and then I can turn off the tractor. What is that part called? Thank you. I may have a pic I can attach if necessary. Is it called the "fuel shutoff valve?" The nut used to sit flush against this part, but now it has popped outward so it won't engage.

 

[wore out]

I have inherited a '66 or '67 Ford 3000 diesel. Overall it runs great. However, I need to repair/replace one part that I cannot identify. It's the small lever that the kill switch/cut-off cable connects to. The pull-out switch/lever to which the cable connects is fine. It's the piece on the right side of the engine to which the wire connects that needs attention. If I pull the kill lever while on the tractor nothing happens, because the part in question will just spin counter clockwise without engaging. I have to get off the tractor and push the outside nut/bushing inward and then I can turn off the tractor. What is that part called? Thank you. I may have a pic I can attach if necessary. Is it called the "fuel shutoff valve?" The nut used to sit flush against this part, but now it has popped outward so it won't engage.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ne...actor/cn/55F5724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

Look in the "Fuel System" section and match up the diagram for the make of I.P. you have.

 

[Sean in PA]

A '66 or '67 3000 should have the Simms in-line injection pump. The parts drawing shows that control lever is held tight against the shaft via a set screw at the base of the lever. Have you tried tightening that set screw? part number 50 in the parts drawing at the link below:

Link to parts drawing for Simms injection pump for a 3000

 

[jakesnake66]

Guys. thank you SO much for your suggestions. These tractors are so old I have very few local resources. Is it OK for me to bring up one more issue that's causing me problems. I'll ask it, and if I need to change to a different forum please let me know:
Over the past 2 years I've had to replace the battery 3 times. This morning is a perfect example. I showed up ready to bush-hog the entire 10 acres. I got a great start - as in the past. Turn the key, pull the throttle down on the right of the steering wheel, and off I went. I cut about 2 acres, and then I needed to move some cut logs. Shut off the tractor, moved my logs, and then jumped back on the tractor, and like many times before...nothing. No turnover/crank...only a red light to the left of the steering wheel. AutoZone has been incredibly accommodating replacing batteries. But if I take this battery in it will be the 4th one in 2 1/2 years. I turn the tractor off every time I'm done using it, and I remove the key and keep it in my truck. It's like something is either draining the battery or it's not charging while I'm driving it. I've put my volt meters on the generator/alternator and they seem to be doing their thing. Any advice?

 

[ET]

Is the neutral safty switch working correctly? Try shifting the the range levering and out of neutral and see if it helps. There is also a wiring harness connector on top of the fuel tank that might have an intermittent connection.

 

[Ultradog MN]

A '66 or '67 3000 should have the Simms in-line injection pump. The parts drawing shows that control lever is held tight against the shaft via a set screw at the base of the lever. Have you tried tightening that set screw? part number 50 in the parts drawing at the link below:

I knew the Sims pumps were used on some 3000 and the CAVs were used on most but did not know it was only the early ones.
Good info if correct.

 

[Keith Williams]

Guys. thank you SO much for your suggestions. These tractors are so old I have very few local resources. Is it OK for me to bring up one more issue that's causing me problems. I'll ask it, and if I need to change to a different forum please let me know:
Over the past 2 years I've had to replace the battery 3 times. This morning is a perfect example. I showed up ready to bush-hog the entire 10 acres. I got a great start - as in the past. Turn the key, pull the throttle down on the right of the steering wheel, and off I went. I cut about 2 acres, and then I needed to move some cut logs. Shut off the tractor, moved my logs, and then jumped back on the tractor, and like many times before...nothing. No turnover/crank...only a red light to the left of the steering wheel. AutoZone has been incredibly accommodating replacing batteries. But if I take this battery in it will be the 4th one in 2 1/2 years. I turn the tractor off every time I'm done using it, and I remove the key and keep it in my truck. It's like something is either draining the battery or it's not charging while I'm driving it. I've put my volt meters on the generator/alternator and they seem to be doing their thing. Any advice?

Jake,
You are asking a good question, but without more info, we (I) can not "see" what is going on.
Guess is about all we can do.
1st guess battery installed backwards. These are negative ground systems.
2nd guess short in generator/alternator that is discharging battery.
3rd guess bad voltage regulator.
4th guess bad wiring.

Answer some questions please.
What is the voltage of battery before installed?
Voltage when installed?
Charged up? Will battery charge back up?
What is the voltage running? At Battery, at generator/alternator.

I hope just methodical analysis will get you some answers.
Keith
BTW, the 3000 series is NEW compared to most of the tractors we are working on. LOL!

 

[Sean in PA]

I knew the Sims pumps were used on some 3000 and the CAVs were used on most but did not know it was only the early ones.
Good info if correct.

The parts site lists when they used the Simms vs. the CAV. They actually went back and forth a couple of times. They used the CAV from the beginning of the production run through the end of 1965, then they used the Simms from the beginning of 1966 through August of 1969, then back to the CAV from September of 1969 trough the end of 1969, then the Simms again for the entire year of 1970, and then back to the CAV for the rest of the production run.

 

[Sean in PA]

Has Autozone load tested each of the batteries when you return them to determine that they really were bad?

 

[Hacke]

The parts site lists when they used the Simms vs. the CAV. They actually went back and forth a couple of times. They used the CAV from the beginning of the production run through the end of 1965, then they used the Simms from the beginning of 1966 through August of 1969, then back to the CAV from September of 1969 trough the end of 1969, then the Simms again for the entire year of 1970, and then back to the CAV for the rest of the production run.

10/69-12/69 unknown?
Engines/parts could have been changed during the years, a picture would tell what pump it is.

 

[Sean in PA]

View attachment 111634

10/69-12/69 unknown?
Engines/parts could have been changed during the years, a picture would tell what pump it is.

Yeah, the current parts site doesn't list 10/69-12/69, but I remember seeing something in an older parts manual that said the CAV was used from 9/69-12/69.

 

[Non-farmer]

Has Autozone load tested each of the batteries when you return them to determine that they really were bad?

Was just gonna ask that

 

[jakesnake66]

Wow...what great feedback and questions. Thank everyone. I'm going to print these comments and questions out, and I'll get back to you guys within 2-3 days. I so appreciate the assistance. While I don't know tractors specifically, I'm an IT pro with 25 years experience, with training on low voltage and electrical circuits in general. I also spend 5 days a week troubleshooting, so I think pretty well in those terms. Thanks to all. I'll get more info asap.

 

[jakesnake66]

I put my voltmeter on the battery and it's fine - 12.6v. The battery cables are super secure and tight. It must have something to do with the ignition system.

 

[Keith Williams]

I put my voltmeter on the battery and it's fine - 12.6v. The battery cables are super secure and tight. It must have something to do with the ignition system.

So next, what is the voltage when it is running? 13.6 to 14.1 would be normal.
Keith

 

[jakesnake66]

So next, what is the voltage when it is running? 13.6 to 14.1 would be normal.
Keith

Thank you Keith, but if it would crank so I could take those measurements I wouldn't be having a problem. The tractor won't start. With respect.

 

[Keith Williams]

Thank you Keith, but if it would crank so I could take those measurements I wouldn't be having a problem. The tractor won't start. With respect.

Not being there, makes this difficult. I was reading that the battery was discharged and that was causing the no start condition.
My bad!
In reply 5, ET gave you the next step.
Move the right range lever around to see if that will engage the Neutral Safety Switch. (Right shorter lever on an 8 speed tranny)
That switch inside the tranny, makes sure you are not starting the tractor while it is in gear.
My 1974 2000's switch is very sensitive. I turn and hold the key in the start position while moving the lever to find the sweet spot that will let it start.
Others may be of help with further advice.
Keith

 

[sotxbill]

I have inherited a '66 or '67 Ford 3000 diesel. Overall it runs great. However, I need to repair/replace one part that I cannot identify. It's the small lever that the kill switch/cut-off cable connects to. The pull-out switch/lever to which the cable connects is fine. It's the piece on the right side of the engine to which the wire connects that needs attention. If I pull the kill lever while on the tractor nothing happens, because the part in question will just spin counter clockwise without engaging. I have to get off the tractor and push the outside nut/bushing inward and then I can turn off the tractor. What is that part called? Thank you. I may have a pic I can attach if necessary. Is it called the "fuel shutoff valve?" The nut used to sit flush against this part, but now it has popped outward so it won't engage.

The not cranking.... could be lots of things... first off ,while trying to crank it,, move the high-low lever back and forth a bit.. as there is a safety switch that needs to be activated in the middle position or neutral position... When you find the magic spot, it will then crank... This is a common problem, very very common on that model... Sometimes you even have to by pass the safety switch to get it to crank... check that and reply back... Thanks.

 

[jakesnake66]

Not being there, makes this difficult. I was reading that the battery was discharged and that was causing the no start condition.
My bad!
In reply 5, ET gave you the next step.
Move the right range lever around to see if that will engage the Neutral Safety Switch. (Right shorter lever on an 8 speed tranny)
That switch inside the tranny, makes sure you are not starting the tractor while it is in gear.
My 1974 2000's switch is very sensitive. I turn and hold the key in the start position while moving the lever to find the sweet spot that will let it start.
Others may be of help with further advice.
Keith

Not being there, makes this difficult. I was reading that the battery was discharged and that was causing the no start condition.
My bad!
In reply 5, ET gave you the next step.
Move the right range lever around to see if that will engage the Neutral Safety Switch. (Right shorter lever on an 8 speed tranny)
That switch inside the tranny, makes sure you are not starting the tractor while it is in gear.
My 1974 2000's switch is very sensitive. I turn and hold the key in the start position while moving the lever to find the sweet spot that will let it start.
Others may be of help with further advice.
Keith

Keith, I certainly hope my reply didn't sound rude. I wasn't sure how to word the response. Please hang in there with me, because clearly you have experience that can help. Plus, I don't want to sound like a jerk! lol

 

[jakesnake66]

View attachment 111634

10/69-12/69 unknown?
Engines/parts could have been changed during the years, a picture would tell what pump it is.

I will take pics as soon as I can get back down there.