Need help with jubilee

[Pacman]

I have a 12 volt system, The wire that connects the coil post to the post on the distributor (points)
Can I measure voltage on this wire when turning over the tractor and if so what should it be

 

[Pacman]

Good idea!
But I must say I was disappointed in results
No continuity between body and lead
I even put the clamp in a little vise to duplicate assembly
I have to quit for today but will be back at it tomorrow
I’ll review the area were condenser lead attaches to points

 

[Janicholson]

Good idea!
But I must say I was disappointed in results
No continuity between body and lead
I even put the clamp in a little vise to duplicate assembly
I have to quit for today but will be back at it tomorrow
I’ll review the area were condenser lead attaches to points

The metal "post" looks to be touching the spring and copper strip. A sure ground there! It must be insulated at that metal support. Jim

 

[used red MN]

The metal "post" looks to be touching the spring and copper strip. A sure ground there! It must be insulated at that metal support. Jim

Metal post?? What do you mean, the breaker arm pivot post? I don’t see where that is touching?
Unless you mean the bent up tab of the contact plate that the terminal bolt sticks through. I am not that familiar with Ford points. The metal “tab” as I call it as shown between the two red lines and the head of the terminal bolt the arrow points to or any part of it for that matter CANNOT have contact with each other.

 

[Janicholson]

Metal post?? What do you mean, the breaker arm pivot post? I don’t see where that is touching?
Unless you mean the bent up tab of the contact plate that the terminal bolt sticks through. I am not that familiar with Ford points. The metal “tab” as I call it as shown between the two red lines and the head of the terminal bolt the arrow points to or any part of it for that matter CANNOT have contact with each other. View attachment 72034

That tab is my "post" incorrect assembly there or a terminal end turned crooked could be a short to ground. Jim

 

[JMOR]

Metal post?? What do you mean, the breaker arm pivot post? I don’t see where that is touching?
Unless you mean the bent up tab of the contact plate that the terminal bolt sticks through. I am not that familiar with Ford points. The metal “tab” as I call it as shown between the two red lines and the head of the terminal bolt the arrow points to or any part of it for that matter CANNOT have contact with each other. View attachment 72034

"I am not that familiar with Ford points.".......then why are you trying to give advice on something you know nothing about????????????????????

 

[used red MN]

"I am not that familiar with Ford points.".......then why are you trying to give advice on something you know nothing about????????????????????

Then why don’t you say “this is wrong with what you are telling him”? Everything I said about the the problem he is experiencing and what I am suggesting could be his problem as it pertains to the installation of the points contact set is a fact. The terminal cannot have continuity to ground if it also contacts the conductor strips from the points breaker arm and the condenser lead end.

 

[Rich'sToys]

....... why are you trying to give advice on something you know nothing about????????????????????

Then why don’t you say “this is wrong with what you are telling him”?

Here we go again........

 

[Pacman]

Thanks for all support
I now have a good understanding of the situation
Base of points is ground,
Spring, copper and lead side must be insulated from ground all along the way from coil
Unfortunately I can’t spend any time on it today
But I will tomorrow

 

[Janicholson]

Thanks for all support
I now have a good understanding of the situation
Base of points is ground,
Spring, copper and lead side must be insulated from ground all along the way from coil
Unfortunately I can’t spend any time on it today
But I will tomorrow

Correct, you will fix it All good. Jim

 

[Pacman]

So, good news, sort of
At dusk I did my points spark check
And
Lots of spark at the points
I decided to take a short video to maybe share with friends
Later when I got in the house I looked at the vidio to see if it was any good and I was disappointed at what i saw
Some additional random sparking from
The bottom side of the points under the pivot point of the spring
If I hadn’t done the video at night I never would have seen it
I’m thinking this is probably unacceptable?

 

[Janicholson]

So, good news, sort of
At dusk I did my points spark check
And
Lots of spark at the points
I decided to take a short video to maybe share with friends
Later when I got in the house I looked at the vidio to see if it was any good and I was disappointed at what i saw
Some additional random sparking from
The bottom side of the points under the pivot point of the spring
If I hadn’t done the video at night I never would have seen it
I’m thinking this is probably unacceptable?

The spring cannot rub/spark, it is an issue to be fixed. The voltage pulses at the points mechanism can be 275 to 300 volts. enough to jump a small gap even. Jim

 

[Pacman]

I have come to the conclusion that these after market point are crap
The old one I took out seems to be a more rigid construction
Any one recommend a source

 

[old]

I have come to the conclusion that these after market point are crap
The old one I took out seems to be a more rigid construction
Any one recommend a source

I get my points from O'Reilly's auto parts stores and have never had any problems

 

[Keith Williams]

I get my points from O'Reilly's auto parts stores and have never had any problems

Me too Old.
I just got a set of BLUE STREAK Points. They are working good.

 

[Keith Williams]

I have come to the conclusion that these after market point are crap
The old one I took out seems to be a more rigid construction
Any one recommend a source

Pacman:
I posted today my story of finding a short in the area you are experiencing.
The bolt thru the distributor has to be insulated from the case of the distributor.
Mine had a crack in the insulator on the inside that was allowing a short circuit.
I posted my story on the FORD forum.
Good luck!

 

[Pacman]

I finally got spark to the plugs!
Actually had it start and run for a minute
But now I’m on to the next challenge
Carb issues, totally expected
Didn’t react to throttle and gas leaking out intake hose
I figured that I would start by reviewing
And then determine if I will attempt cleaning and rebuild myself or bringing to a “professional “ and paying
When a started to split I felt resistance
And remembered my dad talking about breaking or bending a tube that is causing interference
What do I need to remove prior to splitting carb upper and lower halves

 

[Janicholson]

I finally got spark to the plugs!
Actually had it start and run for a minute
But now I’m on to the next challenge
Carb issues, totally expected
Didn’t react to throttle and gas leaking out intake hose
I figured that I would start by reviewing
And then determine if I will attempt cleaning and rebuild myself or bringing to a “professional “ and paying
When a started to split I felt resistance
And remembered my dad talking about breaking or bending a tube that is causing interference
What do I need to remove prior to splitting carb upper and lower halves

Other than all the screws out, a sticking gasket on one side or the other. I assume you have a rebuild/gasket set ahead of the operation. Jim

 

[old]

I finally got spark to the plugs!
Actually had it start and run for a minute
But now I’m on to the next challenge
Carb issues, totally expected
Didn’t react to throttle and gas leaking out intake hose
I figured that I would start by reviewing
And then determine if I will attempt cleaning and rebuild myself or bringing to a “professional “ and paying
When a started to split I felt resistance
And remembered my dad talking about breaking or bending a tube that is causing interference
What do I need to remove prior to splitting carb upper and lower halves

Gas out the air intake say either a sticking float or dirt/rust in the float need seat so the needle cannot shut off the gas. I buy my rebuild kits from my local O'Reilly's auto parts store. Most of the time they have one on hand or can get it that same day

 

[Pacman]

I get the carb top and bottom about 1/4 inch apart and I can feel some resistance
Don’t want to force to hard in fear of breaking or bending something
Is it just a matter of removing one end first?
Or is there a screw I need to back out?

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

If the gasket is stuck to the bottom you are feeling the float catching on the gasket.