Need help with timing for 1966 ford 3cldr gas tractor 20

SeeMRun

New User
I have a ford 2000 series 1966 3 cylinder tractor . I'm trying to set the timing but can't find what it needs to be set at. I am being told most likely the timing is the problem, but can't seem to find any info. On how to set the timing for this make/model tractor. Can anyone give me step by step guidance on how to set the timing. Thanks.

In addition;
I just replaced the original engine with a engine that came from a running tractor. engine compression was 110 to 120 at the time just before they pulled it for sale. I have not rechecked compression since then, This is an engine block that I replaced the original with and placed all my parts from the old engine on, except the new coil, new plugs, and a new fuel filter and also replace the gas will fresh. The tractor turns over but will not fire. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

This post was edited by SeeMRun on 05/27/2022 at 01:24 pm.
 
Hello SeeM welcome to YT! I have a repair manual for
diesel trucks by ..Motors.. the well known publisher of
repair manuals from 1971. It has tractor tune up specs
in a section at the back. It gives 2 degrees BTC as the
spec. It has a foot note, with vacuum advance
disconnected. It says the timing mark location is on the
flywheel, which if you do not know means the flywheel
the clutch bolts to in the bell housing. So I do not know
the exact location of the hole or plate. Usually they are
on the front side or can be on the outer diameter near
where the starter ring gear is located. If another poster
here who goes by Ultradog sees this he can tell you for
sure he is an expert on those models. I will add that
the ..retarded or base.. timing is usually set with the
engine at idle.
 
Find number one cylinder on compression stroke. That will be with the piston top dead canter with both valves on the cylinder closed.
The rotor on the distributor need to point to the terminal that goes to the number plug wire. Set like this you should find a TDC
timing mark on the flywheel or the front crankshaft pulley. With the plug out and grounded you can check for fire by rotating the
engine back and forth with power on at the coil and rotor goes past the terminal. Easier with the other plugs out as well. You might
need to pull and reset the distributor.
 
The timing marks are on the flywheel. There is a small oblong sheet metal plate with a bolt on the right side of the engine's rear plate. You need
to get #1 at TDC on the compression stroke then slide the distributor in with the correct tooth engaged. Been a while since I've done mine. I don't
think there is any timing mark relating to the distributor. You have to hold the body in the correct general position and slide it in so the rotor
ends up pointing to the correct terminal with the points about to open. Make sure of the distributor rotation first. If it isn't in the right place
pull it out slowly till the gear just disengages and move the shaft either way one tooth and put it back in to check again. Once you're there then us
a light to set the timing. You have to get your head right along side the block to see into the timing marks on the flywheel. Timing these is a
MAJOR PITA.
 
Here is a step by step procedure.

Find the timing mark as described below. Not sure what is stamped on the
flywheel, but find some type mark, try to read the numbers or whatever is
there. You want to find something that will tell when the crank is at or
slightly before TDC. Try to mark the mark with white chalk or something easy
to find again.

Then with the #1 spark plug removed, hand turn the engine while holding your
finger over the plug hole. When you feel air pressure, keep turning until you
see the mark line up.

It is now close enough to put the distributor in or check to see if it is
right. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 cap terminal. To get it exact,
with the distributor loose, rotate the housing the same direction the rotor
turns until you are past the cap terminal, then slowly rotate the housing the
opposite direction until the points just open. You can put a test light on
the - coil terminal to ground. When the light comes on, the points have
opened. Snug the distributor down, it is close enough to start. From there it
can be timed with a light or by ear. The engine is not critical on timing. If
it starts and runs well without kicking back against the starter, clattering
under load, has good power, it is good.

Now if it still won't start...

Double check the firing order, just to say you did.

Check for a blue hot spark at least 1/4 inch to ground at the plug end of
each wire.

There is a drain plug in the carb bowl. Have a clean glass ready, pull the
plug and catch the flow. It should drain the bowl, then while cranking the
engine it should have a substantial flow. If the bowl was empty, or there is
no flow from the fuel pump, there is a fuel delivery problem.

Look at the fuel the was caught. Check for water, rust, debris. If
contaminated the tank and carb may need to be cleaned.

If all looks good, replace the plug, crank the engine to refill the carb
bowl. With the coil wire grounded to prevent starting or backfire, disconnect
the air cleaner hose, hold your hand tightly over the air horn of the carb,
crank the engine through. You should get strong vacuum and your hand wet with
gas. If no vacuum, there are valve problems. If vacuum and no gas, there is a
fuel problem.

If the engine has not been run for a while, a spoon of oil in each cylinder will help raise the compression.

Also the fuel pump and carb may be gummed with dried ethanol fuel residue from sitting unused.

And check the air intake and exhaust for mud dobber nests, bird nests and rodent packings.
 
In addition to what has been written below;
Firing order is 1,2,3. It says so in big
letters right-on-the-intake-manifold.
That distributer turns counter clockwise.
Disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the
dustributer before you set the timing if
you are using a timing light.
I don't have my I&T FO-31 manual here to
give you the setting on the flywheel.
 
I just wanted to say thank you to all who posted a comment to how yo set the timing on my 1966 Ford 2000 series tractor. Your comments was just what my Old Betty needed. I'm a novice, so I hired a Mobil mechanic to change out engine bloc after Betty thru a rod. He did a good job but could not get the tractor to run. After days of trying this and that and replacing more parts, my mechanic was not able to figure out the problem. Until I forwarded him all your suggestions. Betty lives again she started right up. But we still have to rebuild the carburetor and then she will be good to go.thanks again!
 

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