Never seize

[Anonymous-0]

Hello, I'm new to the tractor world with my new 8n, I just finished installing rear brakes and am ready to install my rear wheels, What brand and type of Never seize should I use on the lugs and what should the torque be ?

Thanks

 

[oldtanker]

If you put any type of compound on a threaded item that has a torque specification that was determined dry you will not be able to torque to specs. The compound will provide some lube and it will be over tightened.

That being said I just use the German torque spec on lug bolts/nuts.......goodntight!

Rick

 

[Tom N MS]

Some claim that milk of magnesia is good as anything U can use..ME, I ain't gonna put one back together dry..use ur favorite oil at least or regular ole silver colored, nasty, sticky (but good stuff) or milk of magnesia..Then like oldtanker said, tighten em good-n-tight-save the torque wrench for somewhere it matters and is really needed.I have never put anything but whatever oil I happen to have in the good ole squirt can and that is what I will continue to do no matter what kind of uproar this post causes and it will-just watch.....

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 20:45:07 04/22/11) Hello, I'm new to the tractor world with my new 8n, I just finished installing rear brakes and am ready to install my rear wheels, What brand and type of Never seize should I use on the lugs and what should the torque be ?

Thanks

I like the NAPA brand, but only because the NAPA store is close by. I do believe in using anti-seize on external bolts & nuts. It sure helps when you go to take them off in 10 years!

 

[gahorN]

Permatex makes a good Never Seize for this... also plain ol'dry graphite works very well and doesn't attract dirt/grit.

 

[Scott(Ks.)]

I worked in a boiler plant aand I am a never sieze believer. We would do R&R on the boilers every summer, taking apart nearly all exterior piping and low water cutoffs. Never sieze was our friend, as steam and heat will lock up stuff like you wouldn't believe.

The year I retired from the plant I suggested they switch to LocTite. I mentioned, that way all their equipment would hold together for the firing season. :wink:

 

[Dell (WA)]

Mable.........NEVER EVER use "anti-seize" on wheel lugnuts. Must be clean'n'dry. Torque the rearaxle lugnuts to 130ft/lbs. Frontaxle lugnuts to 60ft/lbs. Remember yer BIG axle nut is torqued to a gutt-bustin' 450ft/lbs. .......the tite Dell, who uses anti-seize almost ennywharr else

 

[philm]

I've been applying anti-seize to lug nuts for years now. I did figure that the torque specs. would change and do tighten them up to where I feel comfortable with them on.
But I have always wondered if it is considered an acceptable practice as far as being safe with the lug nuts lubricated as opposed to dry.

 

[Jim in Ma.]

I don't know why, but I always endup using it on my hands too. LOL

 

[R Geiger]

Have you ever had one come loose? I have had them break when trying to remove from being rusted solid. I will use the anti-seize.

 

[ZANE]

Dell is absolutely right!!!!

Zane

 

[Anonymous-0]

I think you 2 guys are airplane guys and YES I would agree Never ever Never seize lugs on a "AIRPLANE" But a tractor??, Nonsense, IF and I say IF the lugs come loose (I never seen it happen)Just tighten them back up cause you'll know long before any wheels fall off that you have a loose wheel.

 

[Jock (OR)]

The reason that never seize is not recommended for lug nuts is the theory that a lubricant will allow the nut to "slip" and back off with use. In order for this be practical, the fasteners (both stud and nut) must have a plating in good condition that prevents the threads from galling and seizing. In the real world, the plating gets old and rusty and pretty soon the threads won't come loose without ruining both the stud and nut.

Despite the prohibition against lubrication, many people have successfully used never seize to protect the wheel stud threads. In fact, wheel studs on modern "hub piloted" wheels for large trucks won't last more than two wheel changes without anti seize. If you tighten the wheel nuts fully, they don't come loose, despite the lubricant. We did this for years and never had one come loose. We did have lots of wheel studs break in service (not counting the ones that broke or stripped out during wheel changes) before we started using anti seize.

You will not have any wheel nuts come loose if you use anti seize on the threads (but not the tapered seat) and tighten the nuts as tight as you can get them with a 1/2" drive socket and a breaker bar (without a cheater pipe).

 

[rustyfarmall]

(quoted from post at 09:32:21 04/22/11) I worked in a boiler plant aand I am a never sieze believer. We would do R&R on the boilers every summer, taking apart nearly all exterior piping and low water cutoffs. Never sieze was our friend, as steam and heat will lock up stuff like you wouldn't believe.

The year I retired from the plant I suggested they switch to LocTite. I mentioned, that way all their equipment would hold together for the firing season. :wink:

Scott, that is exactly what anti-sieze was developed for and it does perform quite well in that application. Anti-seize also works very well on exhaust manifold nuts and bolts, again because of the high heat factor.

Wheel studs and lug bolts are NOT subjected to that kind of heat and there is no point in using it in that application. In fact, I very much doubt if the company that makes anti-seize even has instructions for using it in that application, or would even consider honoring any kind of warranty because of any kind of failure.

A few drops of oil is all that is necessary on lug nuts and studs.

 

[gahorN]

NAPA anti seize (item # 765-1674) says right on the bottle to use anti seize on lug nuts. Don't be silly/sloppy with the stuff and use it ONLY on the THREADS.

Here's what I believe to be true.... It's fine and recommended to use lubricant/anti-sieze on wheel bolt threads...but KEEP IT OFF the nut or benath the bolt head itself.

Antisieze does not contribute to any wheel fasterner loosening as long as the head or nut makes dry contact with the wheel/rim.

Axial loads are not significantly increased when lubricant is used on the threads only.
Lots of documentation to support this:

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/failure4.htm
http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleTorqueWrench.html
http://www.eng.tau.ac.il/~neliaz/Papers_Files/C27.pdf
http://www.surebolt.com/

http://www.rstechltd.com/TITERITE.PDF

http://www.rstechltd.com/Advanced%20Torque%20Auditing-FTI%20Oct%202001.pdf

http://www.rstechltd.com/Technical_articles.htm (some more articles here)

http://www.hexagon.de/dose/dose-1e.pdf

http://euler9.tripod.com/fasteners/preload.html