New 861fluid change questions

So, we picked up an 861 last week. Trying to get the fuel issues sorted out with the gas line heating up. But I want to change all the fluids. I understand there is the hydraulic, transmission, and rear end. Can you use the same fluid in all? I also can't find the capacity of the transmission. I would like to change everything run it and then change it again maybe next summer. So far, we really like the tractor and would like to get everything going well and paint it. The 5-speed transmission wasn't hard to learn, and my son really likes how you shift it. Thank you for any help
 
So, we picked up an 861 last week. Trying to get the fuel issues sorted out with the gas line heating up. But I want to change all the fluids. I understand there is the hydraulic, transmission, and rear end. Can you use the same fluid in all? I also can't find the capacity of the transmission. I would like to change everything run it and then change it again maybe next summer. So far, we really like the tractor and would like to get everything going well and paint it. The 5-speed transmission wasn't hard to learn, and my son really likes how you shift it. Thank you for any help
I use Hy-Trans fluid in all three compartments, never had any problems. Engine oil is 15W40 Delvac 1300.
 
So, we picked up an 861 last week. Trying to get the fuel issues sorted out with the gas line heating up. But I want to change all the fluids. I understand there is the hydraulic, transmission, and rear end. Can you use the same fluid in all? I also can't find the capacity of the transmission. I would like to change everything run it and then change it again maybe next summer. So far, we really like the tractor and would like to get everything going well and paint it. The 5-speed transmission wasn't hard to learn, and my son really likes how you shift it. Thank you for any help
Any fluid that meets or exceeds the 134D spec is OK in all three compartments. Most UTF fluid does that.
TSC sales a UTF. I personally use a shell version of UTF. Get 2 - 5 Gal pails. You can use the rest the next time.

What problems are you having with it running?
In my personal belief, blaming a fuel line that has been working for the life of that tractor (as well as many hundreds of thousands of other tractors) may not be a wise 1st choice. The fuel can boil and that engine will continue to run perfectly. I have personally done that my entire life.

A good analysis of the problem and some problem solving (with our help if you need it) may just get you a great running tractor.
There are thousands of them out there!
HTH
Keith
 
Any fluid that meets or exceeds the 134D spec is OK in all three compartments. Most UTF fluid does that.
TSC sales a UTF. I personally use a shell version of UTF. Get 2 - 5 Gal pails. You can use the rest the next time.

What problems are you having with it running?
In my personal belief, blaming a fuel line that has been working for the life of that tractor (as well as many hundreds of thousands of other tractors) may not be a wise 1st choice. The fuel can boil and that engine will continue to run perfectly. I have personally done that my entire life.

A good analysis of the problem and some problem solving (with our help if you need it) may just get you a great running tractor.
There are thousands of them out there!
HTH
Keith
When mowing with a 5' brush hog it is fine on flat ground. When I go down a slope or up a slope it bogs down and looses power. It ran great when we went and looked at it and bought it. Unloading it off the trailer it died and when we took the bottom off the sediment bowl it was gurgling and fuel started flowing again. When we turned the tractor off after mowing it was also gurgling like it was having a hard time getting fuel
 
Have you tried running without the gas cap to rule out a plugged vent?

With at least 5 gallons in the tank do the fuel flow test at the carb drain plug. Pull the bottom bowl drain plug and see how long it takes to get a pint in a container from the steady stream that comes after the first initial gush as the bowl empties.

Float level or dragging on the bowl could also be an issue.
 
Is this a vented gas cap? It did make a “swoosh” sound when I opened it
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6290.jpeg
    IMG_6290.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 40
  • IMG_6289.jpeg
    IMG_6289.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 38
Is this a vented gas cap? It did make a “swoosh” sound when I opened it
Maybe, maybe not, to me the sound would indicate it wasn't vented. You can try sucking and blowing on the center and see if it passes air easily. Try running without the cap on or at least the cap loose and see if it stays running. Or just buy a new vented cap and know what you have.
 
Maybe, maybe not, to me the sound would indicate it wasn't vented. You can try sucking and blowing on the center and see if it passes air easily. Try running without the cap on or at least the cap loose and see if it stays running. Or just buy a new vented cap and know what you have.
"Or just buy a new vented cap and know what you have."
While I agree in theory, in practice I have had a different experience. Purchased a new vented cap, vent mechanism is visible but not functional.
Dunno.
Do know that new does not mean functioning as advertised.
 
While I agree in theory, in practice I have had a different experience. Purchased a new vented cap, vent mechanism is visible but not functional.
Dunno.
Do know that new does not mean functioning as advertised.
Where did you purchase the cap from? Was it a reputable seller?
 
On my 950, I went to NAPA and bought the gas cap for a 1970 Ford F100. It is vented and has a baffle.
 
Where did you purchase the cap from? Was it a reputable seller?
it's been a few years - I think it was an afterthought on a larger parts order from one of the well known vendors, the cap I was using had a split gasket. (I have since found a source for just the gasket). I don't remember specifics anymore. I still have it somewhere here, I'll see if I can find it. As I recall, there was a visible mechanism which should have been a vent, but it did not.
 
Well I did a flow test tonight. I removed the bolt out of the bottom of the carb a wasn’t getting a nice little stream. Well I dropped the bolt down the funnel into by bottle I was collecting the gas in. So I told my wife to close the fuel shutoff and when she “closed” the valve fuel started flowing good. i have never seen a shutoff that was counter clockwise to close it and clockwise to open it. Hoping to try and run it tomorrow and see if she runs better
 
Where did you purchase the cap from? Was it a reputable seller?
Here's the gas cap in question. Staked orifice in the center has a captive disc that rattles when shaken, looks like it ought to vent but evidently does not have a connection to the atmosphere. It was purchased for a TO-30 Ferguson, I think some Fords use the same cap.
non-vented gas cap - 1.jpeg


No sign of country of manufacture, but we could speculate....
non-vented gas cap - 2.jpeg
 
The last time I changed the fluids in my 4000, I discovered the seals between the compartments are totally blown; fluid added to the hydraulic reservoir would run out the transmission drain. So yes, use UTF in all three compartments since whatever you use will soon be mixed together.
 
The last time I changed the fluids in my 4000, I discovered the seals between the compartments are totally blown; fluid added to the hydraulic reservoir would run out the transmission drain. So yes, use UTF in all three compartments since whatever you use will soon be mixed together.
I'm very close to going the single fluid myself just for that reason.
 
Any fluid that meets or exceeds the 134D spec is OK in all three compartments. Most UTF fluid does that.
TSC sales a UTF. I personally use a shell version of UTF. Get 2 - 5 Gal pails. You can use the rest the next time.

What problems are you having with it running?
In my personal belief, blaming a fuel line that has been working for the life of that tractor (as well as many hundreds of thousands of other tractors) may not be a wise 1st choice. The fuel can boil and that engine will continue to run perfectly. I have personally done that my entire life.

A good analysis of the problem and some problem solving (with our help if you need it) may just get you a great running tractor.
There are thousands of them out there!
HTH
Keith
"""Any fluid that meets or exceeds the 134D spec is OK"""

m2c-134d meets and far exceeds the original specification (that was m2c41a) or type F auto transmission fluid.
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top