Unless an electronic ignition, without points, the condenser is required. Are you using the rectangular coil the mounts to the distributor with wire bale?New distributor, the wires on the old one went to the coil, I am assuming this one doesn't need the condenser, so I can take that one off? Here is the old one, and the new one
Your old distributor has an electronic ignition module installed, and your new one has breaker points and NEEDS the condenser.New distributor, the wires on the old one went to the coil, I am assuming this one doesn't need the condenser, so I can take that one off? Here is the old one, and the new one
Your old distributor has an electronic ignition module installed, and your new one has breaker points and NEEDS the condenser.
Or, are you planning on moving the E.I. module to the new distributor?
What prompted you to buy an new distributor?
Unless an electronic ignition, without points, the condenser is required. Are you using the rectangular coil the mounts to the distributor with wire bale?
No, it came with a round coil mounted on the side, and it has a hole where there is a wood piece that had a spark plug in it I think, I don't know what size because as I took it off it fell into the little housing for the belt and my hand won't fit. I'll take some more pictures, I marked theUnless an electronic ignition, without points, the condenser is required. Are you using the rectangular coil the mounts to the distributor with wire bale?
I don't really know to be honest. I read in another thread where a guy had left on the ignition switch overnight and then it wouldn't start because the points were bad, and changing the points was only about 12 dollars less than getting a new distributer, so I thought I would be able to remove and replace. That's what I did too I couldn't get her to start and went to the shed to chanrge a new battery up n forgot to get the keys out, so I figured the points were bad like happened to the other guy^ That.
Why did you ditch the original housing? and are you using points or EI?
You dropped an insulator.....it just looked like a spark plug to you. Leaving key on, not running, probably burned up your EI module. Here is a test procedure.No, it came with a round coil mounted on the side, and it has a hole where there is a wood piece that had a spark plug in it I think, I don't know what size because as I took it off it fell into the little housing for the belt and my hand won't fit. I'll take some more pictures, I marked the
I don't really know to be honest. I read in another thread where a guy had left on the ignition switch overnight and then it wouldn't start because the points were bad, and changing the points was only about 12 dollars less than getting a new distributer, so I thought I would be able to remove and replace. That's what I did too I couldn't get her to start and went to the shed to chanrge a new battery up n forgot to get the keys out, so I figured the points were bad like happened to the other guy
You could go back by using a "stock" like coil or by keeping the current round can coil and using the Pertronix plate/insulatorIs there a way to go back to points? I know I'm not sounding very smart here.
It doesn't help that the cheap ones don't come with any wiring instructions. Trying to do it cheap as possibleSo I could get one like this one and wire it from the same place it's wired to now? Does it matter that it has the 12v conversion?
So I could get one like this one and wire it from the same place it's wired to now? Does it matter that it has the 12v conversion?
Can you screenshot the pertronix plate/insulator? Wouldn't that be electronic ignition instead of points?You could go back by using a "stock" like coil or by keeping the current round can coil and using the Pertronix plate/insulator
If you go with the original style coil it should be a 12V coil. A 12V "square" coil should have 2.5 Ohms primary resistance. You will also need the original style ballast resistor.So I could get one like this one and wire it from the same place it's wired to now? Does it matter that it has the 12v conversion?
Can you screenshot the pertronix plate/insulator? Wouldn't that be electronic and not points?You could go back by using a "stock" like coil or by keeping the current round can coil and using the Pertronix plate/insulator
Ok thank you, this helps. What is the purpose of the insulator in a regular not electronic distributor with points? I can't find it, is that something I could get at a auto parts store? It doesnt seem like it was attachedAlso can I wire directly to the coil as is? Thanks for the help everybody.If you go with the original style coil it should be a 12V coil. A 12V "square" coil should have 2.5 Ohms primary resistance. You will also need the original style ballast resistor.
If you decide to keep the round can coil and use the pertronix adapter plate, the condenser will need to be relocated from inside the distributor to the coil as the adapter does not have room for the condenser in its original position.
Ok this makes the most sense. I have a good 12v can coil I never used. How does the power get from the coil to the distributor?If you want to go points......
Get a quality 12V can coil, cheap coils are well cheap. The original distributor using the original breaker plate plate assy, with quality point set and condensor.
Awesome, thank you! On your picture, those wires are for the electronic ignition, right? On one that isn't, those wires would be there, right?Ford 8N Distributor Cap Terminal Kit - 1247XTTERM
Ford 8N Distributor Cap Terminal Kit for sale, 1247XTTERM. Distributor Cap Terminal kit for 8N, 9N, 2N with Front Mount Distributor Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit. for sale. Item 182553www.yesterdaystractors.com
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