new front rubber $$

[NWMO 901 SOS]

Hey all,

Pricing new tri rib front rubber (5.50 x 16), I find tires starting at $55 and up plus shipping. Local tire shop that I like can get Carlisles/tubes/mounted for around $105/side. I can save $20 per side going with an import tire. Comments??

ron8 - I tried to send an email through this forum, but it wouldn't send??

Chris

 

[Brian in MA]

Last spring I bought a pair of 6.50-16 for my 4600 from an online place. It was $120 including new tubes and shipping, far less than any local shop. I mounted them myself and they mounted fine and still hold air. They are now about 75% worn in just about 200 hours of use with moderate road travel between my hay fields. I have never had a flat or issue with the tube or sidewall quality, but this isn't a loader tractor either. At half the price of a "good" set of fronts I decided to take a chance, but next time I will buy better quality and expect to pay more for it. If you spend 99% of your time in the field, these might be fine for you, but they really wore quick for me. Just my $.02.

 

[Brian Allen]

I just bought a 650-16 @$105.00 (US made)
I do try to buy North American where possible.
We have to try to buy this way or nothing will be made here!
My younger brother was looking for boots while in Texas last week, and did not find a single pair made here! [u:422ed043e3]What is wrong with us?[/u:422ed043e3]
The boats keep getting busier between China and here and nothing much is going the other way!
Brian

 

[BDT/NWMN]

For $20 per side, I would keep the business local, and buy an American made product to boot..

 

[RodinNS]

Carlisle.... now that gives me the shakes.
This is one of those times where you just shell for a Firestone or GoodYear and don't think about it too much.
A cheap tire is just a cheap tire, not an inexpensive tire... especially if you have a loader on the tractor.

Rod

 

[Fordfarmer]

Haven't priced any new fronts lately, but did buy a new 11L 15 SL Carlisle last week. With tube, mounted, and a patch on the tube of another tire, my bill was $116 and change. I've taken to specifying U.S. made, as the imported (China, India) tires I've gotten have had short lives.

 

[Fordfarmer]

I know you don't like Titan/Armstrong/Carlisle, but I've had good luck with them. I do know a lot of people who won't buy their radials though. All mine are bias. Partly, it comes down to what's available at our local tire shop, too.

 

[MO Jason]

I run Carlisle bias on my skid steer and have no problems.

 

[Larry NCKS]

Much as I hate to be agreeing with Rod again so soon :lol: I'm going to tell you that you might as well blow or wear the current ones out before spending a dime, unless you're going to put Firestones on it.

 

[NWMO 901 SOS]

(quoted from post at 15:48:00 01/11/10)
Much as I hate to be agreeing with Rod again so soon :lol: I'm going to tell you that you might as well blow or wear the current ones out before spending a dime, unless you're going to put Firestones on it.

Thanks again all,

I like the idea of new tires, but not if I'm buying junk. The shop I typically use (my construction employer uses also), said all they had to offer was a "Harvest King" (sim to the Carlisle), Carlisle and an unnamed import that was even cheaper. I'll probably carry these old tires in and go with new/repaired tubes and then keep my eyes open for a good deal. Thanks again.

Chris

 

[CAROGATOR]

A Friend here used(A year ago)to sell me those very tires for $40.00 each. but he has retired now. Carlisle is a Quality tire. That is what you see on most all boat trailers.
look around and you will find a good deal.

 

[Ecnerwal]

Where you need tri-rib, your options are limited.

If you can use truck tires, plenty of good options cheap. I use tubeless steel-belted radial tires (with tubes) on my loader tractor/backhoe, but it plays in the woods and on the gravel driveway, not out in plowed fields. The "load range E" tires turn out to be 2 grades above the "ply" rating specified from the factory for bias tires. I don't have the experience to know where you could and could not get away with those in a farm application, but pairs of used truck tires with adequate tread are not hard to find cheap or free - my backhoe is sporting a set that was on a truck I bought which had unmatched tires front and rear with 4WD, so I replaced the whole set - and saved the two with practically no wear.

 

[RodinNS]

Most of the carlyle stuff I've had was small utility... tedder/rake tires, feed cart, ATV... Lots of trouble with most of them. As you say, it comes down to availability. That's why I've had some of them but I never liked many.

Rod

 

[RodinNS]

Didn't hurt ya a bit either... lol

 

[jbirnsch]

Try pricing the large front floatation tires on a TW30. They were $480 per side put on with solution.

Jason

 

[forddoc]

Chris our biggest sellers are the Harvest Kings and American Farmer(new guys, with old BF Goodrich Equiptment). We have the harvest fronts on both of our shop loader tractors, and our 4000 can lift and carry a complete N with no problem and these tires can take a beating.

 

[NWMO 901 SOS]

(quoted from post at 21:22:53 01/11/10) Chris our biggest sellers are the Harvest Kings and American Farmer(new guys, with old BF Goodrich Equiptment). We have the harvest fronts on both of our shop loader tractors, and our 4000 can lift and carry a complete N with no problem and these tires can take a beating.

Thanks for all the good comments,

I prefer the look of the tri-rib, but my use doesn't require it by any stretch. I should likely look into the used truck tires as the shop I use always has them around. I'll still use tubes as my wheels aren't in any shape for tubeless, rust at stem hole, etc.

Thanks again, I'll post pics of whatever I get done.

Chris

 

[forddoc]

with the narrow front you wanna keep em skinny, don't want them rubbin under load. other than that used truck tires are ok, but they will be riding on the inside edges, instead of centered like with a tri rib.

 

[RodinNS]

I've been using remold LT31-10.50-15's for that for several years now. 100 bucks and change for tubeless. Little trouble if the wheels are clean and they'll outlast any impliment tire I've ever had except mabey the 10+ ply diamond treads... and those will rot off too.
Never be another tube type impliment tire around here.
The best impliment tires we had were GoodYear with Firestone a close second. Galaxy not too bad but I've got a bunch of them left now that have a bad case of the rot...

Rod

 

[Anonymous-0]

import tires have proven to be quite inferior.

 

[Larry NCKS]

(quoted from post at 23:02:33 01/11/10)

Never be another tube type impliment tire around here.
The best impliment tires we had were GoodYear with Firestone a close second.
Rod

:lol:

Gee whiz! Gotta agree with you again! Well almost. :lol: Mine are and will all be tubeless, but I'll take the Firestone over the Goodyear. I had inner linings fail in a couple OEM Goodyears.

 

[Teakettle]

Speaking of heavy duty fronts, my Jubilee routinely has to drive a
couple of miles on paved roads and also do loader work. Since one
of the places I mow has buried bits of barbed wire and similar
nasties, I've been thinking of ditching the tri-ribs and going with
those million-ply aircraft tires but am wondering what the road
ride will be like, as well as the steering with a loaded loader. Does
anyone have experience with them?

 

[NWMO 901 SOS]

Hey all,

The local Firestone distributor said a 5.50 x 16 wasn't available, but I found an outfit in Oregon that said they will be able to get me Firestone's for $65 each in late February. They want $59/ea for Carlisle. Shipping is about $35, so it's not a cheap solultion, but if Firestone, I think I'll go that way. Unfortunately, I need to get the old tires broke down and repair at least one rust hole and probably more in my old rims. I figure to scab scrap on the outside portion of the wheel and then fill in the hole on the backside. What do you guys/gals use to fill the old rust holes in. I guess a person could weld/grind, but thought there might be something more convenient??

TIA

Chris

 

[Brian Allen]

Chris
I would replace the front rims, unless money is an issue.
If you have to repair; get the inside as smooth as possible when you are done welding, then paint the inside area where the tubes are.
Brian