New Holland baler

[grandpa Love]

Yesterday we were finishing up a field and managed to jam the baler a couple times. NH 315. Shear pin on flywheel broke...... Twice. I think maybe I need a different grade bolt. When it sheared it mushroomed and was almost impossible to get out. Problem was we cut an area with heavy briars and weeds...... Just helping land owner clean up a bit. Tried to bale the mess and it was wet, heavy,& nasty. Clogged baler. In addition.....got truck stuck once. And broke chain on bale loader. Boys got in to a fist fight??? And Bubba went and sat in other truck. Refused to work. Ahhhhh. Good times. Family fun......... Shear pin suggestions?

 

[Traditional Farmer]

Did you tighten up the shear pins or just stick them in?They need to be tight. And stay out of the swamps.(LOL)When baling stuff like that I'm
very glad to have a round baler,The NH 851 will swallow that stuff right up.

 

[centash]

Don't put in a shear bolt heavier than the manufacturers recommendation. It will allow a more critical component to break or wallow out the hole enough that no bolt will fit properly. A breaking shear bolt tells you that either the baler is being overloaded or there is a mechanical fault. They are sized for a reason. Good baler!

Ben

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The shear pin is there to protect the more expensive pieces of the baler. It's designed for a certain diameter and grade of bolt. Using a higher grade bolt than designed will cause the next weakest part of the baler to break instead of the cheap easy to replace shear pin. So instead of being down a few minutes replacing a shear pin, you're down for days/weeks.

 

[ss55]

Are you using factory shear pins?

 

[grandpa Love]

TF. That swamp was terrible. Wasn't wet at first cutting. Even raked and flipped and raked it was still wet in places. Next time I'm gonna go WAY around. We didn't tight the shear pin. The handful that were in baler tool box had the nylon lock nuts. So we just ran them on a bit. Between tractor spinning tires and baler sinking down in mud.......grrrrr.

 

[MJMJ]

Shear pin did it's job, it's there for a reason. Baler is made to bale dry hay, not wet trash.

 

[grandpa Love]

No idea. There was a handful of bolts in baler tool box. They matched what broke.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 09:07:20 09/09/20) TF. That swamp was terrible. Wasn't wet at first cutting. Even raked and flipped and raked it was still wet in places. Next time I'm gonna go WAY around. We didn't tight the shear pin. The handful that were in baler tool box had the nylon lock nuts. So we just ran them on a bit. Between tractor spinning tires and baler sinking down in mud.......grrrrr.

There's your problem, it's got to be tight. That little bolt is all that driving the whole baler!

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Part of the learning curve is knowing when NOT to go into the field. Shear bolt should be 5/16 GR 5, they will shear cleanly. I like to get a length that will have the unthreaded section long enough to get through both sides of the flywheel bore. Use a stop nut so it doesn't work loose. The wet stuff is what caused your breakage.

 

[HuskerLyn]

As my father would say, “Welcome to farming”.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

Get the shear pin tight it'll shear off cleanly and not mushroom.Yea I cut some fields with wet places best to just stay clear.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

Get some from NH they will work a lot better.

 

[jon f mn]

New Holland shear bolts are harder than grade five and will shear cleanly. I had to use a grade five in my baler this summer because I was out of the proper ones and the same happened to me. The time it took to get that soft bolt out was more than if I had just gone to town and for the right ones.

 

[coshoo]

I always used grade 5 bolts in my New Holland 275, and they seemed to shear when they needed to, but not constantly like the grade 2 or whatever. If you get them long enough so that the shear portion is solid, not threaded, I seem to remember that you have to put the new one in from the back side, or when it shears again, the remaining piece will be too long to get out without a lot of monkey business.

 

[NY 986]

The baler is not meant for coarse material. Use the recommended shear bolt from NH. As for a further recommendation check the knife on the plunger for sharpness or nicks. 315 uses a slip clutch as well does it not? Check to see how that is set. If you have to run coarse material then you may need to back off the tension cranks a couple of turns.

 

[Bruce from Can.]

One thing you might look at if your baler is shearing pins, and it isn’t because the baler is over loaded, how is the brake on the knotter that actuates the needle arm? If the brake is slipping and let’s the needles drop to soon , the stop block will jump up into the chamber and stop the plunger, and shear the bolt at the fly wheel. I had this happen, changed the brake pad, and cured the shear pin problem on my baler.

 

[Blackhole49]

You stated earlier in the year, that the only reason you did hay is because the family likes it so much and you enjoy working on old tractors and equipment. Your getting at least 1/2 of what you were shooting for.

 

[retired farmer]

Have to back your tension way off baling stuff like that. I use grade 5 but only because I am too lazy to order the correct ones.

 

[grandpa Love]

Bruce, fairly sure I over loaded it. Course , wet, nasty crap. No more Mr nice guy. Folks gotta bush hog and not ask me to cut and bale crap. Lol.

 

[grandpa Love]

It's was more fun before Bubba got his driver's license. Now all he wants to do is go to his girlfriend's house. That ticks off the youngest boy. Says it ain't fair. Tried to tell him life ain't never gonna be fair...... Don't know what the fist fight was about. Didn't see it.

 

[old]

Those shear bolts are made just for those balers so you need the correct type bolt. Most any farm and home or dealer will carry them

 

[paul]

Sounds like just an average baling day.

Shear bolt should be the right grade, but I hear 3 different versions of that....

I stick with #2 bolts and have a hammer and punch in the toolbox to get them out. They break when there is a heavy load on the baler or the plunger timing needles aren’t moving quite right. So it needs to break.

Bolt needs to be up tight, real tight.

The holes in the flywheel and the drive tang need to be good and square, not egged out. Newer models have hardened sleeves in, older might not have those inserts and the hole isn’t square shouldered, this makes the bolts bend and then break.

Paul

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I shared my baler with a neighbor a couple of seasons. He bought a handful of shear bolts from the dealer and they were grade 5.

 

[flying belgian]

Another thing no one has mentioned-you need to run baler up to 540 speed. You will break more shear bolts when running slower.

 

[ffreeb]

I had similar problems with a 276. The local long time dealer told me I needed to replace the bushing in the flywheel and the hardened bushings the shear bolt goes through. After I did that, no more problems .